Project jerk killer

as long as its just on the surface and no pits you can scotch bright it off.

I'll try that first and see

I took the scotch brite after it and they cleaned up real well except for on corner that pitted slightly, I don't think I would hurt anything though. Started porting the heads however finished the bowls for the most part, how far should I lay back the turn? Should I work over the valve stem boss as well?

post a pictures up of what you've done already.

Nothing really wrong with running .700 ish lift on a factory style head, why not?

dfree383 wrote:post a pictures up of what you've done already.

I'll drag them in tonight and take some pics, probably about 10:30 or so.

contrast image to show where ive started work



HDR rendering showing current bowl shape

dfree383 wrote:

BOSS 429 wrote:thats a 13.4 ratio, not bad at all

to much for a stick and what hes doing, never be able to get out of first fast enough....... any good auto will out 60' his ass in a heartbeat.

WITH A SMALL TIRE, and a stick your probaly right, i missd the stick part?

Tires are 29 inches tall. As I said there mostly stick cars, the auto is an AOD with shift kit

Just an update, the port work is finished on the intakes minus the portmatch and Ive started removing the exhaust EGR bosses. Anyone have a good way to portmatch?

Maddmattmustangs wrote:Just an update, the port work is finished on the intakes minus the portmatch and Ive started removing the exhaust EGR bosses. Anyone have a good way to portmatch?

The easiest way is with gaskets, but you can also use the backing material from the gasket package to lay over the finished ports, cut out holes for the ports using an "Xacto" kinfe, then lay the template over the intake ports of the intake and mark where material needs to be removed with a sharpie. The bolt holes in the heads should be used as a guide so that you can locate the template on the intake correctly.

Concerning your bowls, I think you can remove more iron around the guides. I've seen it done to where they are cut right down to the guide itself and it has almost a "splitter" shape to it. May be some porters on here with more insight.

my first 460 build

30 over
trw lightweight pistons
comp cams hydralic lifter camshaft part 312h 612 lift intake and exhaust complete kit valvsprings, lifters everything
double roller timing chain
stock crank
stock rods
stock bolts
about 11.5 compression
ported dove heads 225 176 valves
offenhouser port osonic intake
melling high volume oil pump
milidon front sump pan
mustang header kit 178 priamaires for a 70 mustang fastback

c4 trans with 456 gears 28x11,50 mt slicks
Big Block front springs
5 leaf leaf springs with air shocks and slapper bars

best et 6.60 et 1/8 mile

should run 10s in the 1/4

run for 4 years before i needed to go faster
a little giggle gas and i am sure it would been low 10s

4thHorseman wrote:Concerning your bowls, I think you can remove more iron around the guides. I've seen it done to where they are cut right down to the guide itself and it has almost a "splitter" shape to it. May be some porters on here with more insight.

I did, trimmed it down .250 and narrowed it a bit. Should help out a bit I hope

studly wrote:my first 460 build

30 over
trw lightweight pistons
comp cams hydralic lifter camshaft part 312h 612 lift intake and exhaust complete kit valvsprings, lifters everything
double roller timing chain
stock crank
stock rods
stock bolts
about 11.5 compression
ported dove heads 225 176 valves
offenhouser port osonic intake
melling high volume oil pump
milidon front sump pan
mustang header kit 178 priamaires for a 70 mustang fastback

c4 trans with 456 gears 28x11,50 mt slicks
Big Block front springs
5 leaf leaf springs with air shocks and slapper bars

best et 6.60 et 1/8 mile

should run 10s in the 1/4

run for 4 years before i needed to go faster
a little giggle gas and i am sure it would been low 10s

Sounds alot like my build only I've got a solid roller and victor intake going on, hope it will move my heavy car as fast as yours went!

I know this discussion is in the engine section and is centered around your build but I'd really look at the car as a whole when you are tring to squeeze everything you can out of it- especially on a sliver of a budget. I completely agree with where dfree383 was going.

Your stang has a huge, long a$$ hood. I lost a bunch of weight off the front of my '69 going from a steel stock hood to a lift off fiberglass "race weight" hood. Your savings would be even more as your hood is bigger. You can always keep your stocker in case you ever want to go back. You're going to have to sort out that suspension. Something like drag springs up front with drag shocks and cal tracs in the least out back. Get everything you can out from under the hood that ain't about making power. On a budget, compression is your friend. The flow of your heads isn't going to be astronomical so make every cylinder fill produce as much bang as possible. With a heavy car, gearing is also your friend but i think with that deep 1st in the tranny you've got that covered. Get straight thru mufflers if you don't already even if they are cheapo's.... as long as you can see clear thru them. Put the tallest slick you can under it and roll your fenders. Have a good shifter in there with a short, positive throw. Adjust the clutch so it releases right at the top so you just have to stab the pedal a few inches when you're grabbing gears getting after it. Maybe a complete second set of feather weight, cheap rims with slicks and skinnies for go-time. Reduction of unsprung weight is huge.

Just tossing out ideas.

4thHorseman wrote:I know this discussion is in the engine section and is centered around your build but I'd really look at the car as a whole when you are tring to squeeze everything you can out of it- especially on a sliver of a budget. I completely agree with where dfree383 was going.

Your stang has a huge, long a$$ hood. I lost a bunch of weight off the front of my '69 going from a steel stock hood to a lift off fiberglass "race weight" hood. Your savings would be even more as your hood is bigger. You can always keep your stocker in case you ever want to go back. You're going to have to sort out that suspension. Something like drag springs up front with drag shocks and cal tracs in the least out back. Get everything you can out from under the hood that ain't about making power. On a budget, compression is your friend. The flow of your heads isn't going to be astronomical so make every cylinder fill produce as much bang as possible. With a heavy car, gearing is also your friend but i think with that deep 1st in the tranny you've got that covered. Get straight thru mufflers if you don't already even if they are cheapo's.... as long as you can see clear thru them. Put the tallest slick you can under it and roll your fenders. Have a good shifter in there with a short, positive throw. Adjust the clutch so it releases right at the top so you just have to stab the pedal a few inches when you're grabbing gears getting after it. Maybe a complete second set of feather weight, cheap rims with slicks and skinnies for go-time. Reduction of unsprung weight is huge.

Just tossing out ideas.

My cars been rubbed out to the rails already which on these huge stangs is pretty roomy
Trans came with a triax short throw so I am good there although I need to figure out the clutch thing a bit

As for the hood it's 6'9" if I remember right and rather heavy. Dark horse racing makes a full glass front end which I may run once the engines in the car and running. I'd like to avoid the cowl hood thing. I'll miss being able to smash whatever I hit with that 100+ pound bumper I have

I'm running the new hushpower pros right now on the new 410c which will probably work great on the 460. Only flowmasters you can see through lol