BIG BLOCK FORD
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big block in a fox

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studly
dysfunction8
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Post  dysfunction8 November 26th 2010, 6:53 pm

For anyone who's done this, was there any body modification needed to get the big block with a c6 (or other auto trans) in, or did it just drop in? I hope to have a tubular k-member when I go about doing the swap. Is there any particular brand one would recommend over another for this swap?

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Post  studly November 26th 2010, 7:10 pm

i have one in my FOX i used the qa1 tubular k member i cut the motor mounts off of it and used the D&D mount kit with 2 1/8 headers it fits well and works good. i used a powerglide transmission in order to have good clearance for linkage i cut and boxed the floor at the driver side tunnel. i also had to smooth the passanger side bottom k member where it bolts to frame for clearance and had to massage the glide bellhousing for clearance of the headers. Hope this helps
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Post  dysfunction8 November 26th 2010, 9:37 pm

it does help....doesn't seem like anything too crazy.

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Post  Mike R November 26th 2010, 10:32 pm

Studly, did you use motor plate/mid plates? I'm using the same headers, how did they fit? How did the steering shaft fit? I'm using a stock K-member, Bob told me they will fit good.

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Post  98-9.0Mustang November 27th 2010, 2:29 am

I think the AJE Racing K-member is the best fitting one out there. I have seen alot of them and nothing seems to fit as good and clean.
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Post  dysfunction8 November 27th 2010, 2:59 am

I've heard a lot of good things about AJE, but this car will be street driven often, and i don't think they were built for that

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Post  98-9.0Mustang November 27th 2010, 3:08 am

Yes they are. I am also building a street/strip 98 Mustang and I just bolted mine up tonight. There is also a guy here in town that has had is for awhile and is car is just a street car. They are just built better then the other ones out there. I woouldnt trust a couple of the other ones myself. They just look "slapped" together compared to the AJE one.
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Post  studly November 27th 2010, 9:13 pm

I used Motor Plate and Mid Plate with Limiters i have the UNI Steer shaft and steering rod. If i had to do over i would use flaming river steering shaft had to dimple headers for clearance and smooth steering shaft. I have had two Qa1 K members i like the one with rod ends the best i take and cut 1 inch off the end and put the rod ends back in and it moves the wheel in closer in the fender. i also like the UPR k members they fit really well and are super light and strong. i have all Upr rear suspension with a 1.24 60 and 5.48 1/8 Mile times on N20 with the BBF Stock Suspension getting it done
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Post  BOSS 429 December 6th 2010, 10:49 pm

i use a front plate,with or with out tube k member, I LIKE performance automotive's K MEMBER when i use one,

the cars i do mostly either get a c6 or a c4,plenty of room for either, a little more clearance should be done at top of trans for top 2 trans bolts. i have not done this to a few because of nice paint and still pulled trans no problem. it best to make new crossmember tight up against floor
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Post  nitro717 December 10th 2010, 6:43 pm

Qa1 K members i like the one with rod ends the best i take and cut 1 inch off the end and put the rod ends back in and it moves the wheel in closer in the fender
Glad to know I am not the only fruitloop out there that has done this. I did take 1 1/2 off and had to add some threads to the a-arm
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Post  BOSS 429 December 10th 2010, 10:04 pm

PA SELLS there controll arms shorter for that very reason
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