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starting a 545 Build MAYBE?

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Mark Laczo
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Post  rocky2610D February 16th 2011, 9:40 pm

Got my 460 truck from the bone yard today.
$150 with heads D_VEs and most attachments. Never seen heads stamped without the second # just a space on both head.
Machine shop told me a 4.5" crank will hit the oil pump and machine work will be needed? I did not realize this...is it true?
He also said anything over .040 bore will over heat and I should not do it.
He also said that decking the block to 10.300" will cause problems because the rotating assembly will "grow" when heated up and cause the pistons to hit the valves/head.
I have not heard any of this anywhere and want some other opinions...should I run from him or not? Not too many shops to deal with that are close....but he said he has been doing this work since 1969 and assured me he know what he is doing....

I am not so sure? Maybe I will take the block and heads to him for cleaning and see how well that works. Thoughts anyone?

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Post  richter69 February 16th 2011, 9:46 pm

I'd find another shop lol.

That said there are things that need to be "looked at".
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Post  rocky2610D February 16th 2011, 9:49 pm

Sorry I did not mean to imply that all I was going to do is have it cleaned....just let him clean it and see how well he does that. If it is good work than maybe I will let him check for cracks.....then maybe a line hone etc...

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Post  the Coug February 16th 2011, 10:05 pm

rocky2610D wrote:Got my 460 truck from the bone yard today.
$150 with heads D_VEs and most attachments. Never seen heads stamped without the second # just a space on both head.


Machine shop told me a 4.5" crank will hit the oil pump and machine work will be needed? I did not realize this...is it true?

He is Full of Chit and doesn't know Fords


He also said anything over .040 bore will over heat and I should not do it.

He is Full of Chit... Many of us have bored the .060 .080 and .100 over with no heating problems

He also said that decking the block to 10.300" will cause problems because the rotating assembly will "grow" when heated up and cause the pistons to hit the valves/head.


Repeat He is Full of Chit


I have not heard any of this anywhere and want some other opinions...should I run from him or not?


RUN Don't let Him Screw it up..



Not too many shops to deal with that are close....but he said he has been doing this work since 1969 and assured me he know what he is doing....


NOT

I am not so sure? Maybe I will take the block and heads to him for cleaning and see how well that works. Thoughts anyone?


Take them to the car wash and get some easy off Oven cleaner, and do it yourself..This Guy doesn't know his A$$ from a hole in the Ground.........
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Post  69F100 February 16th 2011, 10:14 pm

find you someone who knows fords and not chevies sounds like he thinks you have a chevy affraid run find another shop
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Post  D. Sea February 17th 2011, 1:31 pm

starting a 545 Build MAYBE? 28-23_runaway
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Post  dfree383 February 17th 2011, 1:42 pm

Where You located? You need to find a real Ford Shop or at least a compitent all around one !!!
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Post  rmcomprandy February 17th 2011, 1:55 pm

I want to reittertate what all these people have advised you ... as some examples, a 4.500" crank with steel rods using capscrew bolts will clear all production blocks WITHOUT any clearancing and will NOT hit the oil pump. And, the early 385 blocks from 1968 to the middle of 1971 CAME with a deck height of 10.300".

That guy is not very well versed in the Ford big block 385 series engine.

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Post  rocky2610D February 17th 2011, 8:29 pm

OK I will find a machine shop in Denver....Its a 100 miles but I bet I will save money in the long run

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Post  Mark Laczo February 17th 2011, 8:36 pm

2 guys that come to mind are Cars by Carl(comes on the site) and Scott Main @ MPG. Both are very competant engine builders. 100 miles so 1 1/2 hours not too bad if you try to maximize your trips once there with everything and once to pick up and pay LOL.

FWIW Mark
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Post  bb429power February 17th 2011, 8:39 pm

Laughing I started laughing, I'm sorry but even I can see he's full of it or an idiot. Laughing wow...
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Post  Outlaw5.0 February 17th 2011, 8:51 pm

Sorry to say but the world is full of oxygen leaches. My moms next neighbor always told me reving the engine will wipe out the camshaft..............and he was a engineer!. I would run far away from that moron, then run some more just for good measure.

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Post  bb429power February 17th 2011, 8:59 pm

Outlaw5.0 wrote:Sorry to say but the world is full of oxygen leaches. My moms next neighbor always told me reving the engine will wipe out the camshaft..............and he was a engineer!. I would run far away from that moron, then run some more just for good measure.
I'll look out for him, if he's in Canton! Laughing I know a kid at school that is dumb like that, school is in Canton so maybe this guy has a kid? Laughing And he wants to be an engineer Shocked Of course...
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Post  John Myrick February 17th 2011, 9:54 pm

It's crap like this is why I'm going to drive 9 hours ( near washington dc to livermore, ky ) for my engine. Most builders in my area know chebbies ( I guess) but they don't know squat about BBF's.

-John
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Post  '65 T-BOLT February 17th 2011, 10:17 pm

jjmstang wrote:It's crap like this is why I'm going to drive 9 hours ( near washington dc to livermore, ky ) for my engine. Most builders in my area know chebbies ( I guess) but they don't know squat about BBF's.

-John
yep, been there! great bunch of guys!....
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Post  rocky2610D February 18th 2011, 8:16 pm

started tearing things apart...found crack in #4 cylinder have to take back to bone yard for another "builder". Mechanic a shop told me not to touch the machine shop I was considering. Not even to clean block...he said the guy would not do a very good job and try to cover it up by spray painting the block a cast iron color. The Mechanic told me about a good machine shop in Colorado that he uses and has a very good rep for machining fords.

You guys were right.....run and run fast...

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