New street class pulling truck motor

The block is already zero decked as far as I can tell. I laid a straight edge across the cylinder and there is less that 0.005" gap between the straight edge and the flat part of the piston. It was not hitting the straight edge, but a 0.005 feeler gauge was the smallest I had, and it was too tight. This engine will be loaded hard at every pull, trying to drag 20,000lbs on a sled for 300'. I just don't want to push my luck and hurt anything.

ford141 wrote:The block is already zero decked as far as I can tell. I laid a straight edge across the cylinder and there is less that 0.005" gap between the straight edge and the flat part of the piston. It was not hitting the straight edge, but a 0.005 feeler gauge was the smallest I had, and it was too tight. This engine will be loaded hard at every pull, trying to drag 20,000lbs on a sled for 300'. I just don't want to push my luck and hurt anything.

Just be SURE to use good enough gasoline. Don't take ANY chances with detonation.

Thanks for the tip, Randy. I've seen too many horror photos of destruction from detonation. My plan is to run 94 octane pump gas with 1/4-1/2 tank of 118 octane Turbo Blue mixed in. There is a gas station about 10 miles from my house that sells Turbo Blue at the pump. That should average out to 100-106 octane from my calculations.

By the way, does anyone have any experience with the bottled octane booster that they sell in the auto parts stores? I have a friend that used to run a 12.5:1 355 small block Chevy on the street, and he swears that all I need is a bottle or two of that stuff to be safe. From what I've read on the bottle, it is only good for a 1point increase, which doesn't seem like a lot, unless you dump a bunch of bottles in.

Man that sucks..... I'm sure it will make a strong pulling motor, but that thing guzzles gas, which is the nature of the beast and I know you're OK with it. The friends of mine that had to mix fuels said it got old really quick unless it was a competition only vehicle.
I think this will kill some of the fun street time out of this truck....
But you've got two other motors you could build later if this motor becomes too much of a pain....

Sounds like the guy wasn't guessing about the compression if he decked the block! I imagine just sticking D3's on it will put you in the mid to high 11's for compression? Have you done the math?

I don't think parts store octane booster really does much. I believe when they say 8 points of octane they mean 0.8 points!

If you google Xylene and turbobuick there are some interesting threads..... Not sure how well that works though....

Can't wait to hear what you think after you get it together!! You gonna build a trans for it too?
Did Randy estimate how hard it will turn? Is the bottom end set up for some RPM's? You're gonna find the soft spots in the drivetrain for sure once you start pulling with wheel speed instead of traction.....

You are correct on the E4OD gears and it will change your final from a 27.434 to a 30.22. IF your motor can carry it, the 27.434 setup will be better for you as it will give you another 2mph wheel speed.
On the tcase. The 1345 is a decent case, but check the yokes as many came with 1330 series yokes instead of 1350's. (at least on the fronts. not positive about the rear) The 1345 is ok, but imho the 1356 is the better case. just has a slip yoke. (I have a slip yoke if you need it).

Andy, I calculated the static compression to be 11.3:1 with a 0.041 thick head gasket, 11.1:1 with an 0.050 thick gasket (Cometic makes one). This is new territory for me as far as the motor build, so it is still a learning experience. I know I'm pushing the limits of a street motor, but I'm looking forward to the challenge...

I'm a little uncertain on what the bottom end has in it, but I know that it does have some type of I-beam rods in it. The previous owner claims he spun 6500-6900 on every pass. Here is a video of the motor with the D0VE heads on it. He said that he was running Trick Flows on it in the comments, but I don't think he had them on the motor yet in this video, they came later.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6sU3-qc5v5c

Alan, I'm going to stick with the 1345 case now since I already have it (free). I'll consider upgrading if I scatter the thing. I will investigate the u-joints. I'll hold off on the low-range setup for the C6 until I see how everything works out.

Huge thanks to Randy Malik, the cam is done and here already! Now I have to do my part and get the heads done so I can get the rest of the motor back together.