starting car on toilet

Just put a toilet on my car this year. Didn't really notice it at first, but now when I start the car it takes a little while to get up to idle speed. It acts like the shut-off cable is closed down some, but it is wide open. It only does it for a short period, maybe 5-10 seconds, and then takes off and idles fine. Is this normal? Is it just waiting for the pressure to build from the belt-drive pump?

TJ

mine will surge for a second or two.................I do use a gas primer...........even without it it will surge a bit.

What leakdown% on the barrel valve and blade gap??

Blade gap at .018. Don't have a leakdown gauge. I set barrel valve by the "snap method" described on James' site.

TJ

snap method dont work so well for the BB Ford............blade gap sounds wide as well, but I could be wrong........just use whatever Killer Ron's site suggests. I'd get a cheap leakdown tool, lots better than guessing................but if you cant it sounds like its on the lean side IMO.

.018" sounds big to me also. I run .012, but on dual T-2 units. The toilet at .018 is a pretty big leak.

I think .010 is the gap I used on my toilet, 25% leak will be real close.

When I tried to set the 472 using "snap" method I never could get it to stumble...........it was lean lean lean...............,

i just did this a couple weeks ago.i had set mine by the snap method too and ran ok last year.did check it out to see where it was and gap was .012,leak was 26%.it'll depend on where you want it to idle at.mine also was a bitch to start cold and also after it was run it started like it would be runnen on 4cyl for a few seconds then it'd take off.before i took it off i did figure out that it would restart better if i killed the ign and then pull the shutoff.if i killed the fuel first it was a pia.good luck

pull the shut off before you kill the ignition............it started better due to the fuel dribbling in the cylinders lol.

Do y'all pull the fuel shut off closed every time you click it off? I ain't been doing that. I looked back at what Scott Offerman e-mailed me and he was calling for .015 gap and about 25% leakdown. I reset the gap last night to .014 and will fire it up this afternoon.

TJ

I shutoff the fuel then the ign. A lot of times I drive it back on gas with the primer plus so the alky is off anyway........but same deal.I kill the primer plus then ign.

Yeah...I always pull the fuel shut-off and wait till the engine quivvers...then turn off the spark.
When shutting down at the end of the day. I turn off the fuel, and run it on the (gas) primer for at least 30 seconds to suck all alky out of the nozzle lines and valves. It seems to make things stay happy.
In my opinion, the leakdown tester method for idle mixture setting is only good to use when you replace a barrel valve and need to get it close enough to start and run. I always adjust my mixture one or two flats away (rich direction) from a stumble. This makes the warm-up and oil condition stay nice.
My rule of thumb....If your engine revs up when you pull the fuel shut-off...it is too rich (on idle mixture).
Keith

the engine will speed up depending on how far you pull the shutoff..................not sure that would be an indicator of the bv setting IMO. One can always look at the cyl EGT's at idle and get an idea as well..................again the bv setting at idle I wouldn't get to wrapped up init, if it will idle good, not stumble etc you should be fine.

I have to agree with Fabio on the shut off that's an instant lean condition caused by pulling the shut off and its going to rev up some. I have found learning to use the fuel shut off is the key to good start ups. If it is hesitant to start its because air is in the main fuel line , it can be caused by not using the fuel shut off correctly and can even be effected by the routing of your fuel lines and fuel pump location or leaking o rings in the fuel shut off.

Cracking the butterfly when starting can also cause starting problems before the system is primed because it causes a lean condition also.

I set my barrel valve with my egt in real time playback and set it around 450-500 degrees that's around 32% leakage at .010 butterfly gap with a 5" bore butterfly.

Thanks guys. I started the car this afternoon and warmed it up. I fattened the barrel valve a couple of flats and it seems happy. restarted it a couple times and came to life much quicker. Now, if I can quit Dickin' around with it, I'll be OK! I will make pulling the shut off closed part of my routine. I have used it to lean it out and build some heat, also driving around the pits to save some Alky. So far it burns about a gallon and a quart per 1/8 mile pass.

TJ

cool deal..........hows it run compared to the gas deal?

So far it is a couple tenths faster than it was on gas. First test out it went 6.386, 6.385, and 6.385. Driver needs to get his $hyt together!

TJ

You'd better look and see where that 6.386 came from!

Curt wrote:You'd better look and see where that 6.386 came from!

I see where you are going with this.............
Carmen won the Jeg's quick deal at Indy this weekend..........can't go by the 660" because of the finish line driving but his 330" was .004 high to low all weekend. Gas will repeat too

its time for some M5..............

Come on Lem, I wasn't going anywhere. You always think the worst of me.

mind your own business Curt................

Please let me get this right........
1] someone was sitting on a toilet with a gas primer.
2] cracking a 5" butterfly

Lem Evans wrote:Please let me get this right........
1] someone was sitting on a toilet with a gas primer.
2] cracking a 5" butterfly

lmao ....guys lets stay on topic

Lem Evans wrote:Please let me get this right........
1] someone was sitting on a toilet with a gas primer.
2] cracking a 5" butterfly

they also measured their gap and did a leak check!

carbs is too complicated..........all them jets and air bleeds and such...............