Belt Driven Oil Pump (Non dry sump)

Except for Dave's (dfree383) engine build, I can't find anything on these hybrid systems.

What's involved in doing something like this? What are some of the benefits? Costs?

Probably the most benifit would be not driving the oil pump from the dist, removing the load from the dist and gear, camshaft, timing chain or belt, etc.. The next benifit would be the ability to prime the engine by just removing the belt and spinning the pump with a drill, and beening able to adjust the oil pressure easily on the outside of the pump. You will need to make mounting brackets for it and weld a bung in your oil pan for a oil line, Plugging the hole in your block were the old pump mounted.
Costs, I etimate around maybe $800.00 - $1000.00 for pump, pulleys, crankshaft drive, mounting brackets, oil lines, scavage filter, bung and oil pick-up in the pan.
Here is a picture of all the parts you would need to do it

thanks for the info. Would one be able to run a lower profile oil pan with it?

Getting the pump out of the pan is a win win situation.

It works well, kind of a pita to assemble, fit and get all the parts togeter.

Total cost was around $1600-1800 including the pan. I had canton install the pick-up when I bought the pan.

windsor wrote:thanks for the info. Would one be able to run a lower profile oil pan with it?

Not realy you still need the oil capacity and a place for the oil to go away from the crank. It's not like a dry sump with a seperate tank.

I have done several "external wet sump systems" on small block Ford engines in street rods. Their main benefit is getting the pump out of the front of the oil pan so they can drop the engine further down in the chassis with the shallower front oil pan.
It really depends upon the parts you use for your system. Aluminum AN stuff, remote filter and store bought bracketry is going to be expensive but, other type instalations are available ... use your creativity - if you have any, lol.

rmcomprandy wrote:I have done several "external wet sump systems" on small block Ford engines in street rods. Their main benefit is getting the pump out of the front of the oil pan so they can drop the engine further down in the chassis with the shallower front oil pan.
It really depends upon the parts you use for your system. Aluminum AN stuff, remote filter and store bought bracketry is going to be expensive but, other type instalations are available.

That's primarily the reason I ask. The motor would be going in a Falcon and I want to get it as low as possible...but I don't want to go overboard - I like the KISS principle.

rmcomprandy wrote:... use your creativity - if you have any, lol.

That's the problem.

Pan converted for an external pump .

Lem can you buy that piece of tubing like that from Canton (or others) or is it a custom made piece?

No, a buddy of mine in Nc. who works for Roush had those bend for me at a local [to him] supplier .

So which system would be the BEST solution for a 600 CI drag race motor?

The system described in this thread or a dry sump system?

Does the dry sump system cost more than the $1800 dave quoted for this system?

Which system is more reliable? No oil pressure--motor ain't happy


Bruce

dry sump

dry sump when rules alow, dry sump make more power,

i have a peterson wet/vac for sale 600.00 plus shipping,i now have a chassie car,and can not use a deep pan


no with wet sump pump you must keep pan deep for oil,plus farther away oil is from crank,again more power you will make

A way to do an external pump w/o a remote oil filter .

Lem Evans wrote:A way to do an external pump w/o a remote oil filter .

Now...That's " thinkin' with yer dipstick.....Jimmie!"
Nice idea.
Keith
www.KeithFulpMotorsports.com

[img][/img][img][/img]Here's a couple of pics of my set up on my Tbird. I've got an external pump with an external filter. I took the boss for the oil filter out of the block and replaced it with a #12 fitting and plugged the oil pump hole in the block. The washable Systems 1 filter is a great piece, it unscrews and you can wash the filter and reuse it as often as you like, plus you can see anything that's in it when you do.

That's a really clean setup, Dan. Very

Pretty engine

Thanks guys ,but it's more pretty than Bad. It's D1VE 2 bolt block and a cast Scat 4.15 crank....One of these days I hope to put some better stuff to it

peterson also make a part that take place of your oil filter,has 2 fitting on it,and just goes on in place of filter,so you can remount filter elsewhere if needed

The hoses were not all connected properly in the pics, but you get the idea. Another thing thats nice is i can adjust the pressure regulator in a matter of seconds, with the engine running. the adj screw is on the filter housing where the bypass is. This is an Aviad spur type pump, its amazing how fast the pressure comes up with it.

Bsherry wrote:So which system would be the BEST solution for a 600 CI drag race motor?

The system described in this thread or a dry sump system?

Does the dry sump system cost more than the $1800 dave quoted for this system?

Which system is more reliable? No oil pressure--motor ain't happy


Bruce

For a max effort engine IMO go for the full drysump system. It is better.