Locked Timing

I have a start button seperate from the ignition switch. If I were to lock the timing, could I spin the engine then turn on the ignition? Or would it need a timing retard set-up?

I am using a DuraSpark dizzy. To lock the timing I am thinking of using wire to tie the advance spring pins together. Is there a better method?

This is a street/strip driven car, should I lock the timing or not? Pros/Cons?

Thanks for the input guys,

Bill

billandlori wrote:I have a start button seperate from the ignition switch. If I were to lock the timing, could I spin the engine then turn on the ignition? Or would it need a timing retard set-up?

I am using a DuraSpark dizzy. To lock the timing I am thinking of using wire to tie the advance spring pins together. Is there a better method?

This is a street/strip driven car, should I lock the timing or not? Pros/Cons?

Thanks for the input guys,

Bill

Thats what my buddy does in his puller. Wheels it over to make sure everything is koshur, then flicks the switch. Pretty low tech but it seems to work.

Cool, thanks Brent. Low tech is good enough for me!!

Bill

Bill that is what I do. Roll the motor then flip the switch.. Kind of keep an eye on oil pressure while cranking.. I have a modded Duraspark set to 15 degrees Int and 36 Crank.

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRnkCMERdnc

see ya..

Addressing the lock out.. I wouldn't do it but that's me. If you can afford one of the more expensive MSD boxes then you could use a laptop computer to program your needs..

When I had my motor down @ Bret Powells shop to dyno it, he asked if my timing was locked. I told him no, and he said it woudl be better in my application if it was. I asked him to do it, and he just removed the guts from the dizzy and welded it together. I have an MSD box with built in start retard, and you definately need it if you have much for cranking compresion.

I have a duraspark in my truck that is done like Smittys. Gutted and welded. I have two batteries tied together in my truck and it starts like its still stock without any type of retard.

Dennis

I'm figuring on starting with about 30-32* of timing.

Do you guys have any issues with the engine running on after you turn off the key? Mine does it sometimes now, I have 16* initial 32* total and the vac advance hooked up to manifold vac.

Thanks for all the info guys!!

Bill

I set my timing at 32*@3k rpm. This is what was best on the dyno.

Not a big fan of Locked dizzy. Just my personel preference. All in at 2500 rpm

I run all of mine locked out.My Mustang has never had an issue starting with no ignition retard and a stock starter, but if you did have an issue ,you could roll it over and then click the ignition on.

couple people already hit it, really depends on engine build as for the need for a start retard or not. If its a lower RPM design with short duration cam and high cranking ylinder pressure, kickback and broken bendix might be a concern with a locked timming set-up. Once running, for the majority of non-street applications, we aren't ever loading the engines below where the timming is all in any how. So it is a moot point after starting.

Mine has so low a cranking compression without at least 20 degrees spark timming advance its a bitch to catch........

kim wrote:couple people already hit it, really depends on engine build as for the need for a start retard or not. If its a lower RPM design with short duration cam and high cranking ylinder pressure, kickback and broken bendix might be a concern with a locked timming set-up. Once running, for the majority of non-street applications, we aren't ever loading the engines below where the timming is all in any how. So it is a moot point after starting.

Mine has so low a cranking compression without at least 20 degrees spark timming advance its a bitch to catch........

Thanks Kim,

I have 9.82 calculated compression with 234/244 @ .050" Edelbrock Performer RPM cam/heads/intake. For now I have the stock converter.

Maybe I should wait 'till I get a higher stall conveter to lock the timing out?

I appreciate all the input folks!

Bill

My engine would crank no problem with the aluminum heads and 15:1 compression. But when I went to the cast Dooe-r's and about a point less compression, it won't. It kicks back every time and you cant get it spinning and turn the igniton and make it start either. I just put a start retard box on it. Let you know how it does tomorrow.

IDT-572 wrote:My engine would crank no problem with the aluminum heads and 15:1 compression. But when I went to the cast Dooe-r's and about a point less compression, it won't. It kicks back every time and you cant get it spinning and turn the igniton and make it start either. I just put a start retard box on it. Let you know how it does tomorrow.

Blake, I know the deal w/head swap, but what is in the plans down the road for new heads?

Rick,

The new heads are being ported now, I ordered new custom pistons for it and their in, waiting on the heads. I will order the new cam as soon as the heads are done.

I wanted to have it ready for the Bowling Green race, but it ain't going to happen.

I am going to Huntsville to run the car tonight. Going to do some jetting , I think it's lean with the cast heads , haven't looked at a plug yet.

How are you coming on your car?


Thanks for asking,