Need a good suspension baseline. Going to the track tomorrow night...

Guys,

I'm going to help a friend with a Bowtie tomorrow night. It's a 63 Chevy II, 406 SBC, Glide, TCI tube front end with Must II front susp, 2x2 tube chassis, 2x3 backhalf, ladder bars, 32x16 M/T stiff sidewall slicks. Car weighs 2900 with driver, 1250lbs on the rear, 125lb rear spring.

The car has already been 10.40s/1.49 60' with regular Must II springs and gas shocks up front and gas shocks and a coil over kit out back. He just installed a set of QA1 DA coilovers all around. I need a good baseline to set the comp and ext on the shocks. Looking to improve on the 60' a bit and hopefully the ET through some tuning and dizzy adjustments he's also made since the last time out. The car goes straight as an arrow, I'm just looking for some pointers on the shocks to get him headed in the right direction....

Any ideas?

Anyone?? Got them set at 14 on comp and 6 on rebound. Good? Bad? Ugly?

It's 60ing in the 1.5 range right now.

start in the middle, maybe a little looser on the front ext and a tad stiffer on the rear ext.................adjust from there.

That's the rear settings above. Fronts are at full loose still.

Does the compression and rebound on the rear look good above? Or do I need more extension damping?

like Fabio said,start in the middle and tune it in. the comp aint as big a deal on ladder bars as ext.at the hit the shocks will extend and how fast and how much will control how much bite it'll have at the tire.

Thanks. Made 2 hits then the electrical bugs set in.

As they have suggested on a new/fresh car build starting around the middle of the rear shock valving range on both extension & compression is one very usable method to try first on a lot of cars. It usually gives a decent idea within the first few hit's of what direction to go with the extension valving. The other 2 starting point methods (starting at full tight/starting at full loose) for the rear shocks have their place too, and are also usable (depending of course on the car type & HP numbers). But when using them you might have to make more initial hit's to get to the valving where you need it to be if you decided to start on the wrong end of the range.

As for the front shock/strut valving on a new/fresh car build, that can be a coin-flip a lot of times. Starting in the middle again with the fronts is an idea too. Although if you have double adjustable fronts & expect that the car might be wheelstand prone you might make the front compression a little tighter/stiffer to reduce the chance of bashing the headers on the way back down if ground clearance is limited.