Some questions on 429 swap into 79 f150

I have a couple of questions regarding my 429 big block swap into my 79 f150 4 wheel drive. I bought a rear sump oil pan and pickup tube so i can clear my front pumpkin. Question #1 do i have to buy a different oil pump to use with this rear sump pickup tube or can i use the front sump pump?. Question #2 Were can i find the pickup tube stud that holds the pickup tube in place? Question #3 How do i figure out the torque spec of the main bearing cap?. And is it safe to remove just one of the bolts so i can get my stud?. Does it have to be torqued back to the same torque spec as the other main cap bolt?. Is it safer just to loosen up both main bearing bolts instead of one so i can evenly torque them back down?. Question #4 I have read that some people have clearance problems with the exhaust manifolds. Hitting on the frame on the passenger side is there a such thing as car and truck manifolds?. Question #5 Will i be able to use the factory mount for the alternator?. Or will it hit on the frame was mounted on the bottom side of the motor?. Question #6 I took the motor out of a 1978 ford f150 2wd. I kept the motor mounts that are on the block. I was looking at broncograveyards website from viewing the pictures of the motor mounts they look to be the same. Are the perches on the frame different?. That about does it for my questions. Sorry this is my first time doing a motor swap like this. I am getting ready to do the swap this spring hopefully all goes well.

1. Same oil pump is used for both pickup tubes
2. BF Evans Ford
3. Not sure on exact tq, but as far as procudure, I would loosen both and retorque both.
4. Use headers, you will be much happier.
5. Find a serpentine belt system off of a mid to late 90's truck
6. Get a set of the L&L swap mounts.


I've done this swap a few times, and there are shortcuts you can do, and things that can't be avoided. You can use the factory manifolds, but they are a PITA, and by the time you are done finding a set that isn't cracked and getting someone to bend up some exhaust, you could have a nice set of headers. You can make brackets or buy the L&L brackets for the accessories, but it's so much easier to find a serpentine kit in a junk yard for about $100 and use it. Definately use the L&L mounts.

schmitty wrote:1. Same oil pump is used for both pickup tubes
2. BF Evans Ford
3. Not sure on exact tq, but as far as procudure, I would loosen both and retorque both.
4. Use headers, you will be much happier.
5. Find a serpentine belt system off of a mid to late 90's truck
6. Get a set of the L&L swap mounts.


I've done this swap a few times, and there are shortcuts you can do, and things that can't be avoided. You can use the factory manifolds, but they are a PITA, and by the time you are done finding a set that isn't cracked and getting someone to bend up some exhaust, you could have a nice set of headers. You can make brackets or buy the L&L brackets for the accessories, but it's so much easier to find a serpentine kit in a junk yard for about $100 and use it. Definately use the L&L mounts.

As far as the headers go i am doing this on a budget that means i can't afford 500 dollar headers at this point in time. I have tried to find a serpentine belt system. But i couldn't find any trucks with 460's in them at the local yards they all have 5.0's or 5.8s. As far as the exhaust manifolds go. I think my buddy might have a pair he may be willing to sell to me for cheap. I really only need the passenger side though. Do you have a link to the L&L brackets?. If the mounts are to expensive is it possible to fabricate your own motor mounts?. I think i might just put the oil pan on and drop the motor in as is. And see where i'm at because i am not going to buy something if i don't need it.

I am going to try to sugar coat this as best I can, but if you are on a tight budget, you really need to prioritize this project. Cutting corners costs a lot of money in the long run. Do it right the first time and you will be much better off. I've seen quite a few of the butchered frames to try to get manifolds to fit, and then the frame cracks and you are looking for a new frame. If you are a good fabricator you can make the factory mounts work, but it usually ends up costing more than a set of the L&L's. I think The Bronco Graveyard is a dealer for the L&L stuff. L&L makes an alternator bracket kit too. I would save my money, do it in installments the right way the first time and you will be money ahead in the long run.

x2 on what schmitty says do your research and find what will work without cutting the frame if at all possible!

I wasn't going to dare cut into the frame i'm not that dumb stupid some people do that . So is this like a 1800 dollar kit i have to buy?.

The L&L mounts were around $120 when I bought them, L&L headers are expensive I have never bought a new set but believe they are about $600 for fenderwell exits(there are cheaper options that work just fine. And for bracketry I have always found factory stuff(70's model cars) to use from local pull-a-part yards. in an f-150 the low mount 60 amp altenator will work it gets close to the frame but will clear with the proper belt, and I have always used the stock f-150 power steering pump with a 460 bracket on f-150's, on f-250 hafta switch to the saginaw pump and bracket system. The truck bracketry from the 80's does work better!

I have an extra serpentine belt system if your intrested $50 bucks

Lighting gave you some good info on the alt. and power steering. Everything from the F-150 2WD will work. But you will need to use the L&L mounts to put the motor in the correct place. I've done alot of these swaps on both 1/2 and 3/4 tons and mounts is all that was ever bought. There is no need for headers unless you just want them. The right side truck manifold fits perfect. If you have any suspension lift the 2WD oil pan will work if not you'll have to use the rear sump. Get the motor mounts first and start there. You can sell the 2WD mounts to recover the cost of the L&L mounts.

That is a great price Dennis has on the serpintine system!!!

hey first off i just want to say i agree with everyone else if you have the money. just so you know it can be done on the low buck side like i did if you want.......i used the 400 m mounts that came with my truck(78 4x4). i made a plate that bolted to the block(460) then drilled holes to bolt the plate to the m-mount and put it in. it actually works nice. as for headers, i modified my towers where the mounts bolt and use heddman 2 wheel truck(460) headers with 3"collectors. i did it for ground clearance(rocks mainly) . never had any problems and never hit a header or exhaust yet in a lot of serious off road situations...anyway thats just how i did it, oh yea all my brackets are off a 71 lincoln that had a saginaw type pump and air conditioning. i modified them a bit for on-board air and stuff but they work nice. anyway ....thats about it.

As far as the motor mounts go. I viewed the l&l motor mounts and broncograveyard motor mounts. And from what i seen i compared the mounts already on my motor to the pictures of the mounts from l&l and the mounts from bronco graveyard. They look to be the exact same thing the ones already on my motor as the one's from l&l and broncograveyard so i am not so sure why i would need to buy them. Another thing it says on bronco graveyard. The motor mounts from 1977 to 1979 were the same for both 2wd and 4wd trucks the motor came out of a 78 f150 2wd. But as far as the motor mount perches go will i have to drill them out at all?. I'm sorry for my ignorance this is the first motor swap i have done like this. Like i said before this might just be a trial and error type of thing. Fifty dollars is a great deal for a serpentine belt system but i don't need it at this moment. Are these the motor mounts everyone is talking about that i need http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-20990-extreme-duty-460-motor-mounts.html . Or are these the motor mounts that i need if so i already have them http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-20900-460-mts-351-m-400-bronco-f150-f250-f350.html . I think i might be in a little over my head here with this swap starting to get discouraged.

The ones in the second picture are what I was talking about. those are not a factory 2-wheel drive mount so someone already put them in thetruck you pulled the motor out of. All the factory truck mount for 460's i have seen are a three piece design a cup on the engine the stand on the frame and the "dog bone" isolater to connect the two hooker made a frame stand to use the factory cup and "dog bone" from the 2 wheel drive trucks in a 4 wheel drive, but the one you have are much easier and keep the engine setting at the proper height and angle front to rear. As for your frame stands you shouldnt have to change anything on them with the mounts you have.

Thanks for all the help everyone. Getting really excited to get the motor put in this spring. Not sure what i am going to do for exhaust i think i might buy short tube headers. I am kind of curious as to what kind of gas mileage i am going to get with the 429. I get 5 to the gallon already with the tired old 351 so i figure it can't get much worse. The truck does have 3.55 gears front and back open diffs also.

My swap is a 2WD but when shopping around I ended up with 2WD 460 headers from Hedman at a cost of $225 tax and all. I can't imagine the difference between 2 & 4WD being all that much when it comes to the headers. Not sure on a 4x4 but don't plan on getting out of this cheap. I am currently at about $900 & mine is not back to driving yet. I am going from a 302/C6 to a 460/C6. The 429 & 460 are same family engines.

the 2wd headers will hit the drive shaft on a 4wd... the cheapest 4wd headers you'll find are mad dog fender-well headers i just got a set recently from mark and they were around 465 bucks shipped to my door

i modified a set of engine mounts on my first 460 that was out of a 72 Lincoln to work in my truck, i also ran the stock exhaust manifolds on the truck and it was tight but they fit the exhaust work would get tricky though i just ran some 3" pipe off them, also a front sump pan will work in the truck that's what i ran in my 77 it did get close to the front axle when you landed a bit funny though...

95 to 105 ft pounds on the main caps take them both off then tighten both back up you can pull off cap if you want to cheak bearing just make sure it goes back on exactly the same

2X with every thing said so far. Use the L&L mounts. Then anything in the future from L&L will fit (like the headers). As far as brackets and pulleys, get them all from the same source. If used, get them all from the same donor. My first swap in '88, I used all the L&L brackets. The brackets were a great fit. My pulleys would not line up with the brackets. After guessing at set after set of OEM pulleys, I gave up and ordered the L&L pulleys. Just an FYI, L&L did not offer up any info about which pulleys match their brackets. If it is proprietary, suppliers should just say so. Sell it as a kit. Not picking on L&L, a lot of other suppliers do the same thing.

I know this is a bit of a older thread

however the Best engine mount is the 83-97 460 stuff

L&L does not do a very good job to line up the engine correctly

the 400 mounts on a plate sits the engine to high

plus the 83-97 insulator can be had at any parts to in the event of a failure

middle one is the OEM 460 one the one on the left is the L&L the one on the right is straight up junk avoid at all possible