Engine Chiller

I forgot to post pics of our engine chillers we started making a while back. These are great for bracket racers, guys with no radiators, or anyone else trying to speed up turn around at the track. Many options available. One tank units for most apps but we also do a two tank unit for open cooling system like a lot of guys with blower/turbo combinations run.




Questions and comments are welcome. Portable transmission coolers available soon. Can be integrated with engine chiller.

2JM Fabrication
Josh 903-486-7292
or
Justin 903-870-8109

Nice!

these look very good

I still have work left to do to finish the one I'm building

Just how do they work

Its an external radiator pump and fan, you equip the car with a couple quick conect hose couples, where you can jack in a drain and feed line, the quick conects are just like airline hose quick conects. Then when you get into the pits, you jack the hoses into your system, and plug the unit in, it cycles the coolant through the radiator and fan and cools it while the engine is off, circulates through the whole system, so it pulls head temps down quick. Some units use an actual refridgeration set-up with freon, and cycle the water through a radiator built into a chill box, either air alone, or a secondary chilled medium. Simple air coolers cheapest, and better than nothing, systems with refridgeration, air to circulator next best, liquid cooled chiller, most effective.

The high end units have multiple hook-ups for both coolant and trans fluid.

The one above is a refrigerant cooled water chiller. The temperature is adjustable to whatever you want. We have gotten this one in the 30's. We don't run them that cold but was just testing. They push cool water into the motor and push the hot water into the tank to chill. We use a large cooling tank so it takes a lot of every to increase the system temp. Everyone we know that uses one likes to get to the line with the engine temp as low as they can get it without "sweating" the motor.

whats the refrig style unit go for? that could save a lot of $$$$ on ice.........................

whatbumper wrote:The one above is a refrigerant cooled water chiller. The temperature is adjustable to whatever you want. We have gotten this one in the 30's. We don't run them that cold but was just testing. They push cool water into the motor and push the hot water into the tank to chill. We use a large cooling tank so it takes a lot of every to increase the system temp. Everyone we know that uses one likes to get to the line with the engine temp as low as they can get it without "sweating" the motor.

Thats the wierd on it, ideally, you want to hit the line with the heads about 210 degreesl, prevents fuel wetting. Problem is we all run aluminum intakes, and with engine up at temp, the intake heat saturates, and reduces intake charge density. If we all went to thermal isolated plastic intakes, then we would use the thing as a pre-heater and ensure oil was 180, and heads were 210.... at the line.

Who did the 210 degrees come from?

We don't run a head temp gauge but measure water temp coming out of the block. ( we go in heads out block). Usually get back to the pits less than 120. Started doing this after watching what Bill Glidden does at the track.

I think Mike D said he shoots for 60* prior to the run............procharged SBF on Q16.


Cool water and hot oil for da powa playa......................

richter69 wrote:whats the refrig style unit go for? that could save a lot of $$$$ on ice.........................

$4000-$5000 from some companies. A lot less from us. Depending on options, $1800-$3000. Turbo/blower guys will save that in ice in less than a year. NA and nitrous guys will see consistency and faster turn around.

whatbumper wrote:Who did the 210 degrees come from?

We don't run a head temp gauge but measure water temp coming out of the block. ( we go in heads out block). Usually get back to the pits less than 120. Started doing this after watching what Bill Glidden does at the track.

Smokie Yunick was the first to let the secret out. Then when the mandate for fuel milage in modern cars hit, the auto manufactures jumped on the information, head surfaces colder than 210, allow gasoline to "wet" where 210 seems to be the window of instant evaporation. Gasoline only burns in vapor, so wetted surface is useless.

The battle we wage is heads one temp, and intake as cold as the fuel air comming in, if not colder.

Alcohol actually cost hp because of the cylinder cooling.... big displacement, large volume engines aluminum heads, the combustion process starts too cool, and the alcohol remaines wet to surface. Same thing with gas, but less an issue on volume of fuel, just an issue of when the engine is asked to work.

Smokie was a cool dude...but... the heads, manifolding, carbs, carb spacers and fuel have came a looong way since then.
Chill it, push it to the line, do a short burnout and run it , what's going on with the bux up real fast stuff these days.

Lem Evans wrote:Smokie was a cool dude...but... the heads, manifolding, carbs, carb spacers and fuel have came a looong way since then.
Chill it, push it to the line, do a short burnout and run it , what's going on with the bux up real fast stuff these days.

Through enough spark at it and you can get tar to burn.

I think the big big advantage has come with the hotter longer duration ignitions. I know 20 degrees duration sure helps my headache.

The advantage is.....keeping heat out of the manifold and carb.

looks like it ruins on 120V how many amps ? starting and running. just wondering what size genset it would need.

bird of prey wrote:looks like it ruins on 120V how many amps ? starting and running. just wondering what size genset it would need.

The one pictured draws about 10 amps. We can do a larger capacity cooler which would up the rating or could go 220 volts and split the power for any additional accessories.

But even adding a tranny cooler and a bigger capacity cooler it would still be under 15 amps 110v.