2X4 Carb Setup

Hi,
I currently have a moderate build 466 in a 69 Fairlane street car. 567 lift solid cam,slightly raised pistons, dove heads.
The 466 engine has an older type Torker intake and an edelbrock 750 carb
The engine (and car) is.. it is my old drag race car now converted to street. it is now a 4 speed car
I recently purchased an aluminum low rise 2X4 intake for it and a pair of used edelbrock 600 carbs.
It is not the blue thunder intake. the one i bought has an open plenum below the carbs shared by 8 very short runners. i will take a picture of it as i do not believe there is a name on it
I also bought a linkage kit to hook it all up
my plan is to take the 750 off, try each 600 one at a time on the torker intake to make sure that they are in good working order since they are used
Does anyone have any tips as to where to start with the jetting before i bolt this 2X4 up to try?
i am guessing that my ignition timing will pretty much remain the same and i do have a fuel regulator set at 5 1/2 lbs of pressure to start with
Any tips at all would be greatly appreciated as I am new to running a 2X4 carb setup.
Thank You in advance

Does your intake look like this one?

https://2img.net/h/i3.photobucket.com/albums/y99/helpn/610.jpg

yes that is it. i do not know much about it

jmf32 wrote:yes that is it. i do not know much about it

As far as Edelbrock carb tuning on THAT intake, nor does anybody else.

how do you know that nor anybody else knows? thank you anyhow

jmf32 wrote:how do you know that nor anybody else knows? thank you anyhow

THAT manifold was just released to the public a couple months ago.

Awful Short Runners and Lage Plenum...... I don't like the looks of it.

i originally looked for a blue thunder 2X4 but the ones that i found were alot more expensive.
the 600 edelbrocks i bought very cheap since not too many guys like them.
the runners are short but the plenum is similar to the weiand stealth.

Is the Plenum completely open?

yes
there is no divider at all

Not trying to insult you....... But I think I would have paid the few extra dollars for the BT intake.

I'm thinking the one you have might be a bear to tune and its opposite of what I would want in a manifold. The short runners are probably going to kill any low end. It doesn't appear that much thought or engineering went into that part.

i am thinking that it may suffer on lowend also.
i was just looking for a baseline to start
i also thought that putting a torker in place of the stealth would hurt lowend
but surprisingly, it worked out. any low end stumbles were taken out by adjusting the the carb
the torker showed no signs of bottom end loss. if there were any. i did not notice them

I'd just check the eddy carbs to make sure the have the factory tune and start from there.

The torker vs weiand, the stealth is a high rpmdual plane with a lot of volumn, the torker is a relatively small volumn low single plane.

So that would be the Pro-comp intake?

http://www.460ford.com/forum/showthread.php?t=160253

Be sure to let us know how it works out for you. I am sure plenty of people would like to know.

Jess

i guess that it is a pro-comp manifold.
in the box i found a pro-comp warranty/disclaimer paper.

I have been doing some reading on the 2X4 carb setup.
most of the setups that i have read are using non progressive linkage and the carbs open at the same time and go wide open at the same time. idle mixture screws are set the same as doing 1 carb and basically stock jetting worked fine also as a baseline to start with as mentioned here in this thread.my timing is aprox. 36 total. and aprox 12btc at idle. and it is all in at aprox 3000 rpm.
That seems to work the best for my car. i do know that adjusting the edelbrock carb idle mixture with a vacuum gauge for max rpm at idle then in just a tad makes a big difference in more air flow at idle. From what i have read, that same method is used on both carbs also at idle on the 2X4. i will follow up on this thread and hopefully post some good results soon. i am due to replace my intake manifold gasket this time although i have not had any problems by using permatex around the ports on the previous intake swap. i also need to try each 600 carb on my torker intake, one at a time just so i will know where they are at before i start. they are used but should be ok.thank you for the replies

hi all,
i have got the procomp 2x4 intake running today. the edelbrock carbs were each tuned in on my old torker intake over the weekend. they were dialed in so i put them on the procomp and hooked them up. my timing was already set at aprox 36 degrees. i didn't have to move the distributor. i slid the intake on from the back to the front. it bolted up fine and i started it and noticed an immediate high idle with the procomp so i backed the idle screws out and it still idled fast. sorry no rpm gauge but it was fast. in fact the idle circuits do nothing right now and the idle screws are all the way out so i retarded the timing a little to get an aproximate 1000 rpms and the car idles fine now but i need to see where the timing is at now. i am in the process of tuning the set up now but it is overall running fine. i need to see where the timing is at before i continue tuning it. so far so good. i do have the carbs to open same time. i will post back as i tune with it. note: when i retarded the timing, the manifolds now glow orange at idle but as i advance the distributor it goes away but idles too fast. it is a non vac dist but i do have a msd adjustable timing dial on the dash to control some of the timing.

ANY BODY SEE WHAT I SEE?

















































I LIKE IT, I'D LOVE TO TEST WITH IT ON SOMETHING

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skip this blank page, sorry

Turning the idle screws out richens the mixture. Try turning them in (clockwise). If you turn them all the way in and find they don't make a difference then you have a vacuum leak or the throttle plates are open too far. keep in mind with two carbs you have 2X the air leaking around the throttle plates. I'd make sure they are adjusted correctly - close down the secondaries and adjust down the primaries to get the idle down.

it may be a vacuum leak. the carbs were tested each run as single carb and worked.

the throttle plates are closed. idle mixture screws do nothing anywhere adjusted. i do have meth/water injection on each carb base and i noticed my trunk tank is sucked dry. i will disconnect and plug the 1/4" holes and post back. actually i could just disconnect it from the battery since it has a check valve could be why its idling fast. only idle adjustment is turning the dist right now. i overlooked the meth/water vacuum switch. it is now probably closing the switch at this idle(lower vacuum)setting. still could be a leak though.thanks

On the edelbrock carbs, the fuel mixture screw is an air bleed, the fuel flow is preset. So turning the screw in, makes it richer. To reduce the fuel your going to have to change the jet and the mixture rods.

the mixture screws worked fine when i tried each carb as a single on the torker intake. i was able to fine tune the idle mixture. now on the 2x4 manifold, the idle mixture screws make no change in idle and the actual engine idle stop screw is backed completely away from the throttle plate stop on each carb with no change in idle. i cannot hear a vacuum leak. gauge reads aprox 7" vacuum at the intake manifold vacuum port but the exhaust manifolds glow orange after about 5 minutes running.is that normal? as i notice some new vehicles do this at times.that is with distributor from 25-36 degrees mech advance(non vac). is this a direct indication of a vacuum leak? water temp is 210-220 which is about the same as always. no overheating issues

intake did not seal and causing vacume leak some where if no carb adjustment makes a different