A few questions on a new build

Hey guys been lurking for a while and finally registered.I must say that this site has given me a wealth of knowledge and the people here are awesome!

So the build goes like this, I have a 99 cobra that had/has a built 5.4 4v in it.the plan was to turbo this but I like n/a power and instant throttle response so now a 460 is in the works.

The car:
Fully seam welded,gutted,floors cut out and 2x4 tubing welded in,10 point cage, built 8.8 3.73but I have a 9 in also if it breaks.Tires are 315 35 18 drag radials.
Tubular k member in front,haven't decided on a motor plate or mounts yet.being a cobra it has hydroboost so that helps out for v/c clearance and cam selection.

The engine:

Ok I'm in a bit of a bind money wise just having purchased a home,I have to short cut the build.

I have a 1995 460 truck engine that I plan on using. I'm in the process of porting some dove c heads,roller rockers,solid roller cam( suggestions?)intake undecided yet,I have a predator carb that may end up on it at some point.car has a 5 in cowl hood. What is max hp and rpm for this short block with a canton pan?

The goal is 600 ish hp or low 10 range. Trans will be the zf5 out the truck at first. Ya ya I know I know people say it shifts slow but I have a 97 f350 460 zf and really it isn't bad.I mud race the truck and it shifts ok for me.I can't justify 3k for a t56 swap.I have a c6 if I don't like it. Weight will be around 3300#.street driven a good bit

Any input welcome,sorry for the long post

I have a 89 model short block, stock rods,cheap speed pro flat top pistons and stock crank and dove heads in my ranger I turn it 6500 rpm runs 6.70s in the 1/8 and 10.80s in the 1/4 letting out a 1000' mark out of gear with about the same wieght you are looking at.But if you going to use the stock rods upgrade the rod bolts.

Ya planed on stock rods. I guess arp makes a upgraded bolt? My self imposed rev limit is 6500 max on this shortblock.I will build a proper engine as funds permit,probally a 545 next time.

99cobra wrote:Ya planed on stock rods. I guess arp makes a upgraded bolt? My self imposed rev limit is 6500 max on this shortblock.I will build a proper engine as funds permit,probally a 545 next time.

Yes arp makes them not sure of the # on them, I am building a 552 with A429 heads now

Good deal, I'll invest in those arp bolts.

I was thinking of running a victor intake?any better choices for my application?

I would Also would like some input on cam specs.any recommendations?

Spend the extra few hundred dollars on some eagle or scat hbeams it's worth it.

dfree383 wrote:Spend the extra few hundred dollars on some eagle or scat hbeams it's worth it.

X2, by the time you invest money to reman those rods and add good bolts, you won't be far off of the price of the investment in a good set of rods. Every time you try to cut corners, it will cost double down the road, so save the money and do it right the first time.

I never said I remaning any thing. I have a complete engine.I'll pull the pan to put the canton on there and put the arp bolts in and seal it back up.I stated I was short on cash, I was given this engine so no biggie if something breaks. Reread my posts,I'm planning a 545 so yes I'm cheeping out on this build.

I'm looking for manifold suggestions and cam specs,not criticism.

99cobra wrote:I never said I remaning any thing. I have a complete engine.I'll pull the pan to put the canton on there and put the arp bolts in and seal it back up.I stated I was short on cash, I was given this engine so no biggie if something breaks. Reread my posts,I'm planning a 545 so yes I'm cheeping out on this build.

I'm looking for manifold suggestions and cam specs,not criticism.

Dude, the guys suggesting H-beam rods are really offering advice and not "criticism" IMO. I totally understand being on a budget. So let me suggest that instead of a solid roller cam set-up as you said, instead use that money to on a decent set of scat H beam rods and use a solid flat tappet cam in the 250 to 260 degree duration at .050 and .600 to .650 lift with a victor intake. All the items needed to go with the roller cam will cost more than the rods and you are already wanting to keep it below 6500. My .02

Welcome to the board

TJ

I'm not saying it right but the engine i have now as stock rod arp bolt's... but before i bent a couple rod's a few year's back i ran stock rod and bolt's with the same build and never had a problem and was spraying it to .. what i've seen on rod failure was not the bolt's it was the rod up close to the piston

It is the considered opinion of most machinist's that I know, any time you replace the rod bolts you should have the rod's big end resized. Hence the term reman. By the time you purchase the bolts, remove/resize the rods, and reassemble you will usually be further ahead to purchase one of the cheaper replacement deals available.

dkp

Those machinists are also looking out for their pocket. It's not required all the time.

Anyway enough about opinions on the damn short block,it is what It is.
I'm pretty shure I stated a 545 is in the future.

Ok so a victor intake sounds good, but a flat tappets don't go In any engine I build at my shop if I can help it.I'm not shy of adjusting valves as needed on a solid. And what besides roller cam and lifters (roller rockers,guide plates,and good push rods) do u need to run a solid roller in a bbf?

99cobra wrote:Those machinists are also looking out for their pocket. It's not required all the time.

Anyway enough about opinions on the damn short block,it is what It is.
I'm pretty shure I stated a 545 is in the future.

Ok so a victor intake sounds good, but a flat tappets don't go In any engine I build at my shop if I can help it.I'm not shy of adjusting valves as needed on a solid. And what besides roller cam and lifters (roller rockers,guide plates,and good push rods) do u need to run a solid roller in a bbf?

Leave the stock bolts in it, and don't waste your money on a roller cam if its on the cheap, a solid FT is the ticked for cheap. Better to spend the money on the better stuff later on a 545.

PS if you don't want advice, don't ask for it.

there are a few key items that have to be addressed when using a 385 series engine. if not the 5.4 will likely be faster.
... stuff like rods, block deck height, proper intake selection.
....roller cam as in small block thinking is not at all necessary. fwiw bobn

99cobra wrote:Those machinists are also looking out for their pocket. It's not required all the time.

Anyway enough about opinions on the damn short block,it is what It is.
I'm pretty shure I stated a 545 is in the future.

Ok so a victor intake sounds good, but a flat tappets don't go In any engine I build at my shop if I can help it.I'm not shy of adjusting valves as needed on a solid. And what besides roller cam and lifters (roller rockers,guide plates,and good push rods) do u need to run a solid roller in a bbf?

I think you are just looking for compliments, not advice. I believe you have offended quite a few guys here.

99cobra wrote:I never said I remaning any thing. I have a complete engine.I'll pull the pan to put the canton on there and put the arp bolts in and seal it back up.I stated I was short on cash, I was given this engine so no biggie if something breaks. Reread my posts,I'm planning a 545 so yes I'm cheeping out on this build.

I'm looking for manifold suggestions and cam specs,not criticism.

It should be interesting, maybe even entertaining to watch you just put the ARP rod bolts in the rods. You'll likely destroy the big end eccentricity before your done.

Bret

Ok good deal then. Stock bolts and a solid flat sounds like the route im taking then with a victor.

Thanks to all who have helped.