Some questions on a 466 build

Was getting work done on the heads at the machine shop and both of them cracked. All of this is in a 78 Bronco mud run truck. I am limited by class rules to iron heads and no dominator carbs.

What I currently have (had..):

d1 zero decked, .030 stock EFI style pistons ~9:1 with d3s
Straight up timing set
xm278h installed at 112*
Ported weiand stealth intake
Holley 850 DP

Another member on here has offered their heads to me, and I have a few cams to choose from, from other members.. I just want to figure out what I would need to make it all work together and what my best route to go would be.

The heads I am considering:

Max effort D0ves
Jomar stud girdles
cut to 72cc chambers
FRPP SCJ Valves
Manley nextec blue stripe springs
comp titanium 10* locks/retainers
comp studs, guide plates
set up for .800 lift cam.


Option 1: Stay with current cam xm278h. I was told I could not fit SCJ valves in my d3's without cutting the pistons. I assume this is still true with the d0ves, but I am not sure. So I would need different pistons and different valve springs on the heads obviously.

Option 2: c460 hydraulic flat tappet duration 310/320 edit: 244/254@.050, lift .588/.614

Option 3: Howards 242212-12 Solid flat tappet Camshaft, Mechanical Flat Tappet, Duration 244/252 @ .050, Lift .588/.611.

Keep in mind I want to run pump gas, so I don't know if any of this would even work together and keep me where I want to be.. but I guess I'm asking which pistons I would want to run with each of those cams with the d0ve heads to keep compression at pump gas level and clear the valves.. and what kind of power numbers would each setup make.

I am also looking towards the future with this setup, as I want to build a larger cube motor down the road. If I can get away with any of these cams with the d0ve heads without HURTING performance significantly compared to the d3s I would go that way while keeping in mind that they have the potential for much more cam in the future.

Got some numbers on the cams mixed up, but should all be right now.

Why do you want to stay with pump gas? You are leaving a lot of power on the table by not going up in C/R. A properly matched solid flat tappet cam, or better yet, solid roller would be worth the investment. Mud racing takes a lot of torque, so maximize what you have towards that goal.

I know I'm pushing the limits of it trying to step up into this cam range, but I still want to stay streetable and driveable on trails from time to time. It's not full out mud racer, but I do want to win in my class. Full body street appearing trucks, iron heads, etc. I also want to be able to drive the thing around town and fill up at the gas station while I'm out.

1. D0VE heads would be best but, NOT those. The intake valves are to big for your pistons. THOSE WON'T WORK for what you want to do.
2. Purchase a custom ground SOLID LIFTER camshaft specifically for your application.
3. Get rid of the Stealth and get a Torquer II.

do not use those springs on a flat tapped cam, it will be real flat in no time !

Seems I told Paul all of this yesterday. Just buy my whole backup motor and let it eat!  

Karl, I know you told him yesterday that these heads would work when I knew they would not. What I don't know is why you seem to be talking shit now. He doesn't need a new motor.....theres nothing wrong with the one he has....even if there were a problem i dont think he has $5000 to buy a motor right now.


All he needs is a good set of d3 or d0ve heads that he can bolt on with a minimal amount of work to run roller rockers and tge xm278h cam/springs to race one more time this season- September 27th. Right now he doesn't need a new cam or intake.

Not talking crap. He's trying to ask about race motor parts with worked heads and skimp on a cam. He needs to decide if he wants a race motor or a play motor. 2 totally different animals. I told him to pull the d3's off the motor I sent you and get them freshend but he was asking about my d0ve's. With what was done to these heads, it's too much for the cam he wants and bottom end. Why have him waste money now on something he's going to change over the winter when he can just step to the race motor he wants and be done? I've been down for almost a year from racing just because I decided to build the next motor I wanted instead of going back with the little 466.

His original heads were fine for the motor you speak of. So if you want to get pissy about it, the person you should be talking to is you for hogging out the heads more and sending them to a shop that cracked them by doing a simple valve job...


Sorry to everyone else reading this. Paul, I'm out of it...

I'll agree with most you've said but money doesn't grow on trees.  

The head cracked on the valve seat. I don't think it had anything to do with them being ported by either of us.  I do not think they are hogged out.




The original intent of this thread was to pick an available cam that will work with Karls heads and a new set of .030 pistons with larger valve reliefs. I think the wording got a little skewed.

IcallhimGeorge wrote:The original intent of this thread was to pick an available cam that will work with Karls heads and a new set of .030 pistons with larger valve reliefs.  I think the wording got a little skewed.

And thats the point when I suggested he just get the rest of my setup. I already have the .030 forged flat tops pistons with new rings, h-beam rods, and crank (all balanced, just need to check ring gaps and all clearances in his block), as well as a solid roller cam that was custom ground for those heads. He can be up and running in a few days. But as you already said, money doesn't grow on trees, so why buy my heads (which need to be changed to work with a hyd cam), another "temporary" cam, and new pistons that will all "work for now"?

Looks like my first question turned into a shit storm  

Kris got the right idea of intent. "which of these inexpensive options will work for right now, with future upgrades in mind"

Looks like we're going with a set of slightly worked d3s for now to get it up and running for my September race.. thanks for the replies everyone.

IcallhimGeorge wrote:


All he needs is a good set of d3 or d0ve heads that he can bolt on with a minimal amount of work to run roller rockers and the xm278h cam/springs to race one more time this season- September 27th.  Right now he doesn't need a new cam or intake.  

What he "probably needs" and what he "actually asked about" are 2 entirely different things. Spending the least amount of money to merely work was never even mentioned.
Are the rest of us supposed to read minds in order to understand what is happening...?

Yes.. might want to get that thing tuned in, doesn't seem to be working right