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Racing oil pan for mud

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Lem Evans
kjett
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Post  kjett February 14th 2013, 8:41 pm

Looking for a recommendation for a good oil pan to run on my mud truck. I've been looking at the canton, moroso, and the Lem pans. I really would like the Lem pan, but worried if it would hold up in the mud with dirt and rocks getting kicked up under the truck. So what would you guys recommend? My last pan was a factory 10qt truck pan that I put a baffle in and ran a windage screen. I want something a little better that will help keep the oil under control during all the bouncing. So what do you think?
kjett
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Post  Lem Evans February 14th 2013, 8:43 pm

kjett wrote:Looking for a recommendation for a good oil pan to run on my mud truck. I've been looking at the canton, moroso, and the Lem pans. I really would like the Lem pan, but worried if it would hold up in the mud with dirt and rocks getting kicked up under the truck. So what would you guys recommend? My last pan was a factory 10qt truck pan that I put a baffle in and ran a windage screen. I want something a little better that will help keep the oil under control during all the bouncing. So what do you think?

Rear sump?

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Post  kjett February 14th 2013, 8:45 pm

Yes sir, and it can not have a kick out on the driver side so I will clear the drive shaft.
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Post  Mark Laczo February 15th 2013, 9:36 am

I use the Moroso 20614 but it has a kick out on both sides.
It clears my drive shaft alright. C6 w/205 T-case f-150 chassis.
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Post  schmitty February 15th 2013, 9:48 am

I've got that same pan, and it is decent, but talking to a guy this week about modifying it, to get the sump deeper.
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Post  kjett February 15th 2013, 10:09 am

I guess I'm paranoid, but i like the extra capacity of my old factory/modified 10qt pan. Granted, I only keep 9qts in it just to make sure the oil doesn't slosh back up into the crank when I bounce or go fly in the air. I just wish there was an off the shelf 9qt rear sump drag race pan that doesn't have the kick outs. As it stands now, with my front drive shaft cage in, I have about 3" of clearance. How much clearance is there from your drive shaft and the pan with the kick outs?
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Post  schmitty February 15th 2013, 10:11 am

I have about an inch of clearance and I've never hit it.
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Post  Lem Evans February 15th 2013, 11:41 am

kjett wrote:Yes sir, and it can not have a kick out on the driver side so I will clear the drive shaft.

20625 moroso has no kickouts. 9" at the sump....8 qts w/filter.

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Post  rmcomprandy February 15th 2013, 12:10 pm

Mark Laczo wrote:I use the Moroso 20614 but it has a kick out on both sides.
It clears my drive shaft alright. C6 w/205 T-case f-150 chassis.

As far as I remember, the only "kickout" on the driver side of that pan is at the sump which only adds capacity and is nothing like a "power Kickout" up near the pan rail usually on the passenger side.

Personally, for catalog pans, I prefer the Moroso #20612 mainly because of its all around depth used with a MPG oil (half) tray.

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Post  Paul Kane February 15th 2013, 12:54 pm

kjett wrote:Looking for a recommendation for a good oil pan to run on my mud truck.... My last pan was a factory 10qt truck pan that I put a baffle in and ran a windage screen. I want something a little better that will help keep the oil under control during all the bouncing. So what do you think?
If the OEM pan is working well for the engine combo and application, why not keep it and execute the further mods to that pan so as to suit your desires? (Not to say that there isn't more power to be gained from a more exotic pan upgrade.)
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Post  kjett February 15th 2013, 2:22 pm

Randy, that is basically the type of baffle that I welded into my truck pan, then I run a Canton 20-936 bolt in screen. With this pan, I'm assuming I'd still need to keep the screen?

Paul, I keep reading on here that a full race pan is worth some extra hp over the bolt on pieces like I went with on the last motor, which is the reason for me looking to upgrade with the new motor. My old pan served me well, just wanted to make sure I'm going in the right direction to make up some lost hp. The old 466 was all about making the motor as "factory" looking as possible and keeping the iron heads. The new 488 is going to have A heads, so that theory goes out the window. Might as well make it look like a full race motor then Very Happy

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Post  rmcomprandy February 16th 2013, 12:55 am

kjett wrote:Randy, that is basically the type of baffle that I welded into my truck pan, then I run a Canton 20-936 bolt in screen. With this pan, I'm assuming I'd still need to keep the screen?
Very Happy


NO screen with the MPG tray as it also mounts to the main caps.

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