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Driveshaft recomendations?

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KY JELLY
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Post  GTmustang June 16th 2013, 4:40 pm

Just finished setting my engine back and installing new solid motor mounts, now I need to have a new driveshaft made! I've got 625 hp on motor and I am planning on throwing another 150 hp of nos at it from time to time. I was going to order a chrome moly shaft with 1350 u-joints, but I'm not sure what diameter shaft is needed? A 3" c/m shaft would be nice because it would be really light, but I'm thinking that a 3.5" c/m shaft might be more bulletproof! Also wondering if I should pop for a forged drive shaft yoke versus a cast one? I've also considered a 3.5" or 4" aluminum shaft, but have heard they can be pain. Any advice?
                                                                                                               GT

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Post  TravisRice June 16th 2013, 5:43 pm

Call these guys. Know the cars weight, engine rpm desired to run , AT or stick, and they can tell you what you need. Depends on the application and length as far as what is the strongest.  I've used them for customers cars with no failure yet as well as my own stuff.


http://www.dynotechengineering.com/

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Post  GTmustang June 16th 2013, 6:25 pm

"by TravisRice on Sun 16 Jun 2013 - 17:43
Call these guys. Know the cars weight, engine rpm desired to run , AT or stick, and they can tell you what you need. Depends on the application and length as far as what is the strongest.  I've used them for customers cars with no failure yet as well as my own stuff.
http://www.dynotechengineering.com/"



Travis, I actually talked to them on Friday, Randy Malik had recommended them. They wanted to make  either a 3.5" or 4" aluminum shaft for me. I think I'd rather have chromemoly.
                                                                      Gary

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Post  TravisRice June 16th 2013, 7:05 pm

I am not a driveshaft expert by no means. As was explained to me EACH have thier own strength + and  - 's for thier application. Sounds like you already have your mind made up so why ask then?

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Post  richter69 June 16th 2013, 7:37 pm

I have a 200 dollar 3.5 ms shaft made by a local truck shop, that includes the weld on yokes and the 1350 joints.


Ive beat the hell out of it w no issues.
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Post  GTmustang June 16th 2013, 7:53 pm

TravisRice wrote:I am not a driveshaft expert by no means. As was explained to me EACH have thier own strength + and  - 's for thier application. Sounds like you already have your mind made up so why ask then?

I have made up my mind that I want a C/M driveshaft, what I'm not sure is whether I should get a 3" or a 3.5" and if I should upgrade to a forged slip yoke? Dynotech recommended a 4" aluminum shaft, which would be kind of tight around my x-pipe and mufflers under the car. I think that the C/M shaft would fit under my car easier and probably be more durable in the long run.
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Post  69F100 June 16th 2013, 8:14 pm

One thing have seen with working with aluminum for some years the aluminum it don't take much to make aluminum brake.On a drive shaft I have not ever messed with but I do know if aluminum gets a good scare it will brake if under a lot of pressure. With being said I don't care for a aluminum drive shaft if it was to get a deep scratch or ding it will most likely bust at that point if it was to let loose and broke.
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Post  whatbumper June 16th 2013, 8:56 pm

We run CM driveshafts in everything now.  Had an aluminum one in the lsx all motor car but it is sold now.  I'm hearing great things about the carbon fiber clad aluminum shafts too.

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Post  KY JELLY June 16th 2013, 9:05 pm

Strange builds nice chromoly driveshafts .
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Post  the Coug June 17th 2013, 5:55 am

KY JELLY wrote:Strange builds nice chromoly driveshafts .



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Post  DILLIGASDAVE June 17th 2013, 7:32 am

A 3.5" c/m shaft from Mark Williams, Bickel, Strange (etc) would probably be more than enough. If money is no problem you could always get a carbon fiber shaft from PST.
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Post  rmcomprandy June 17th 2013, 9:33 am

Gary ... if what you really want is a chriome moly drivershaft instead of a race one then "Joint, Clutch & Gear Service, Inc." will make you whatever you want.
Their home is around Detroit however, they have a satellite outlet in Saginaw - 989 686-2924.

The diameter of the driveshaft will determine the wall thickness of the tubing - .060", .080" or .090".
A 4" thinner wall tube will withstand and deliver more torque through it than a small diameter .090" wall tube and probably lighter, also.

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Post  69bluehotrod June 17th 2013, 4:51 pm

Gary,
what length C to C do you need?, I have a brand new Mark Williams bonded aluminum one... 3.5 " with 1350 joints 39" C to C  make you a smokin deal on it.
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