Gear Lube Suggestions

Anything special? I have an 8.8 with a spool w/4:10's..........drag application.

I've ran everything and have settled on the regular automotive stuff from Amsoil. We ran some of the "race" stuff from various companies and the gear wear was very noticeably more than with Amsoil stuff. I've had almost every major brand of stuff in cars and racecars over the years and this is the only one I run in everything now.

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/gear-lube/severe-gear-75w-90/?code=SVGQT-EA

whatbumper wrote:I've ran everything and have settled on the regular automotive stuff from Amsoil.  We ran some of the "race" stuff from various companies and the gear wear was very noticeably more than with Amsoil stuff.  I've had almost every major brand of stuff in cars and racecars over the years and this is the only one I run in everything now.

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/gear-lube/severe-gear-75w-90/?code=SVGQT-EA

Thanks! Any ideas on the capacity?

I use the motorcraft 75-140 synthetic, I get it free from work so im biased.

should take 2-2.5 quarts

KY for the win! 

richter69 wrote:I use the motorcraft 75-140 synthetic, I get it free from work so im biased.

should take 2-2.5 quarts

You have a hell of a sponsor though. Lol

Syn. is some NASTY shit too get up from a race track. Was at our local track one night, when a PrpMod car was there doing some testing. Scattered a centersection all over the track. That was it for the rest of us. They had to call experts in the next week to get the track back in shape. 

Any thoughts on straight 50w chevron synthetic? I've got buckets of this stuff. We use it for transmissions in our big rigs.

My rear end guy advises against synthetics for drag racing because he says the rearend does not usually getup enough heat for them to work correctly and the standard dinosaur oil does not need the heat to work properly.

I use Coastal 80/90 last couple years with no issues.

bigblok2000ranger wrote:My rear end guy advises against synthetics for drag racing because he says the rearend does not usually getup enough heat for them to work correctly and the standard dinosaur oil does not need the heat to work properly.

I use Coastal 80/90 last couple years with no issues.  

That's some false info there.

with the lower heat the syn would be better...........


you need some good slick stuff between that ring and pinion, its under a severe load when you mash the loud pedal.

bigblok2000ranger wrote:My rear end guy advises against synthetics for drag racing because he says the rearend does not usually getup enough heat for them to work correctly and the standard dinosaur oil does not need the heat to work properly.

I use Coastal 80/90 last couple years with no issues.  

What is there NOT to work correctly w/Spool/ring/pinion?

I have been using richmond brand (same as the ring and pinion ) in my 67 comet bracket car it is a synthetic 95-140 $22 a quart .My local speed shop in Atl. has valvoline synthetic 95-140 for $69.70 a case of 12 I plan to pickup a case today .For everyone information its Barnett performance Probably better to call 404 522 1320 ask for Chuck

bigblok2000ranger wrote:My rear end guy advises against synthetics for drag racing because he says the rearend does not usually getup enough heat for them to work correctly and the standard dinosaur oil does not need the heat to work properly.

I use Coastal 80/90 last couple years with no issues.  

I would have to disagree with that depending on what gear material was used on a drag car. The rock hard factory gears that can go 100K - 200K street miles might be OK with the dino-oil. But when the aftermarket 8620 gear & super soft 9310 nickel pro gears see decent power numbers, your best bet is the synthetic stuff. Hell even the Walmart synthetic stuff is a half-way decent synthetic gear lube.

And as far as rear end temp goes, a smart drag racer will warm the cold trans & rear end before the first pass of the day, and not just warm only the engine.

Seems I have been given some misinformation, he stated that the synthetic needed to get up to~150° to have the proper shear strength.

I run the Torco gear lube in both ends of my ranger, and I only run 200' at a time  

bigblok2000ranger wrote:Seems I have been given some misinformation, he stated that the synthetic needed to get up to~150° to have the proper shear strength.

That's the reason to run synthetics. It doesn't have to have temp to be good. But it is a pain in the rear to get off of the assembly when changing gears and stuff.