Backhalved Fox Mustang... UPDATED 5-31-2018 IT'S ALIVE!!!

Everything looks pretty good. I haven't read the entire thread but what certification are you shooting for? The reason I ask is the door X bars intersection point looks really low on the top front bar. You may need to ask your inspector if it is okay with him but it wouldn't work here. Just trying to save headaches later.

whatbumper wrote:Everything looks pretty good. I haven't read the entire thread but what certification are you shooting for? The reason I ask is the door X bars intersection point looks really low on the top front bar. You may need to ask your inspector if it is okay with him but it wouldn't work here. Just trying to save headaches later.

I agree, that wouldn't work with our division 5 guy either.

If he's going for a 8.50 cert the x bars wont matter.........around here anyway. All they check is the main structure around the driver, those x bars dont even have to be in there...............at least with a factory firewall and factory steel floor anyway.

I have the same issue with hood. I also have a 4 in cowl and with no spacers the hood will close just no room for air breather or pan.

jbozzelle wrote:Yanked the C4 last night and installed the adapter midplate and Powerglide. Gonna try and get the motor plate setup done this weekend as well as try and fit the headers... If they fit I'll be able to determine the final engine placement and decide if I want to go bigger on the hood scoop, go to a drop k-member or go with k-member spacers... As it is right now my 4.5" cowl hood doesn't fit with an 850 Holley and a 1" spacer on top of a Victor.

Need to trim the trans tunnel opening in the floor so I can get to all of the trans bolts. Once I do that I'll be able to completely remove/service the trans from inside the car.

Also have some 1.25" tubing that should be here next week so I can continue with the cage.

richter69 wrote:If he's going for a 8.50 cert the x bars wont matter.........around here anyway. All they check is the main structure around the driver, those x bars dont even have to be in there...............at least with a factory firewall and factory steel floor anyway.

thats why asked which cert.

jbozzelle wrote:Bumping this back up. The car sat since the end of 2009 due to a divorce and the dragster we bought, built and totaled!

John you are a beast man!! I'm glad you are on our side

Keep up the great work brother and we "WILL" race together at the 2012 bash

Just shooting for an 8.50 or slower cert. The tech guy is coming down in a month or so and I plan to get it certified then. I'll be picking it up tonight. I'll post some more pics once it's back at the shop. I spent more than I wanted but I got all of the hard stuff that I can't easily fab out of the way. Everything else that's left I can easily do myself.

Still need to mount the batteries, fuel cell, pump, chute, engine and trans. Then plumb and wire it and do the tin work. It might go back for some of the more complicated tinwork stuff but I plan to get the big stuff out of the way first. I just don't have a shear or brake so I'm not sure hom much I can do without those 2 important tools. If anybody has any ideas let me hear them!


What's the rules/ET break on a FC cage?

I have used a tunnel and floor kit from S&W racecars, it worked pretty good !

jbozzelle wrote:What's the rules/ET break on a FC cage?

ALL race cars need them in my opinion. It's just too easy to do and the cost is low.

whatbumper wrote:

jbozzelle wrote:What's the rules/ET break on a FC cage?

ALL race cars need them in my opinion. It's just too easy to do and the cost is low.

I agree, whether they are required by rule or not, I wouldn't be without a FC cage.

will prolly add one this winter, I gotta redo the backhalf on the car anyway so i can get a real tire under it, and loose some weight in the process, that home built job I did some 8 years ago can be improved some lol

richter69 wrote:I gotta redo the backhalf on the car anyway so i can get a real tire under it

You? Real tires? Say it ain't so!

jbozzelle wrote:

richter69 wrote:I gotta redo the backhalf on the car anyway so i can get a real tire under it

You? Real tires? Say it ain't so!

Here's some pics. Got the wishbone done, antiroll seat mounted and cage all finished up.

looken good!

Nice

You did a nice job!

looks very nice John , i really like that wisbone set up

67460 wrote:You did a nice job!

I didn't do much. I started it almost 2 years ago. I just got tired of staring at it and finally payed someone to finish it.

I got the new oil pump mounted and modified the pickup for proper pan clearance. Now I just need to stick the new oil pan on it, bolt up the trans and see how it all looks installed with the headers. Hoping to do that sometime this weekend or next week. I'll take pics when it's all mocked up.

Got the engine and trans in it tonight. bolted on the headers too. Going to figure out the driveline angle tomorrow night. Trans tailshaft needs to come up a bunch. I'll post some pics tomorrow night

Pictures or ban! Looking forward to seeing it.

This is all I have right now. The headers are hanging real low! Looks like they will come up nice and tight to the floor once I raise the tailshaft up in line with the rear pinion. I'm trying to get the car as low as possible to give it a good stance. I'll see tonight how it all works out after I draw out the drive line angles on the floor.

Looking good John, keep it up!

Got the engine and trans in where they need to be so the driveline is all lined up. Tacked in the motor plate tabs and started fabbing up the midplate tabs. I had to ditch the factory rack setup and will be putting in a Pinto rack. The header collectors hit the factory transmission crossmember brackets so I'll be fabbing up a new crossmember mounted off of the subframe connectors. This crossmember will be higher up in the chassis and should clean up the bottom of the car. The headers are not much lower than the oil pan and are tucked up nice to the floorpan. They clear the trans pan too. Hopefully I can plumb a set of 4" exhaust pipes and some race bullets in there somewhere too.

The engine sits so low in the chassis and fairly level that it looks like I can use a much shorter cowl hood.

Looks good but how easy will plug changing be