67 Fairlane-front suspension options?

What is everyone using on their 66/67 fairlanes for their front suspension? I want to put a manual rack and pinion in, eliminate the shock towers and quite possible the crossmember while adding a motor plate setup. I of course would like to keep the cost and weight down, but I know racecar stuff isn't cheap. I don't want all that heavy bling bling and power crap, it needs to be plain and simple with the ability to adjust suspension such as a true drag car. Any input will help me as I am researching what to get at this moment and comparing. I'm 100% fine with taking parts off another, newer car and piecing it together instead of buying a "drop right in" kit.

I bet it takes over $8k to pay a shop to do it nice and complete, OR $?k in equipment and skills to do it yourself. Don't forget
the shock towers and inner fenders bolted to radiator core support is a supporting structure for the frnt uni-body frame horns. Other things to include to the process are motor plate mounts, the steering shaft, headers and paint to name a few.
I've used this kit on a number of projects and have been very happy with it.
http://www.heidts.com/part/66-67-fairlane-comet-super-ride-front-suspension/

Justin check out my frontend swap my parts was off 1988 Mazda RX7 5 lug except the new brake parts I got about $500 in mine. I not sure how far you want to go on your frontend swap.

https://www.429-460.com/t21061-2000-ranger-frontend-swap-to-a-tube-strut-frontend

Fatman Fab makes a bolt in strut front suspension, but it is pricy. Rod and custom makes a good front end kit with MII front suspension. None are cheap unless you do the work yourself. TCI makes a strut type suspension using the factory shock towers but you can cut most of them away. Good luck.

I will be doing all the work myself, I have done a fair amount of intense fab work short of a full tube chassis. I will be adding structure to things that need it, but anything extra will be removed. I was also looking at these kits after pricing out pieces individually:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mustang-II-IFS-Narrow-Control-Arms-Coilover-Springs-Stock-Spindles,35676.html

I used almost all used fox/sn95 parts on my strut conversion. If you already have a cage.....just add a few strut bars and do this...

I do have a cage but none of the bars go past the firewall. If I could add those bars that setup would be perfect!

bb429power wrote:I do have a cage but none of the bars go past the firewall. If I could add those bars that setup would be perfect!

a good hole saw and front bars and a welder can fix that problem

check out paul hortens series he has some nice mustang ll cross member set ups

Nice ride.
Dave

Thanks for all the input guys. At this time I have decided to install a motor plate, shallower oil pan, and lower the car front and rear. The new suspension will be a project later on as clearance issues will cause a much bigger issue than I thought. I will end up making a new, removable crossmember as well to ease oil pan access for lower end inspection. I think it will look pretty sleek lowered a little, at least the front. I can then remove the dumb coil spring spacers installed up front as well. Any thoughts?

How much shallower you going on the pan? Don't got too far or else you may end up with some bad windage issues as the oil climbs the back of the pan as you haul the mail down the track...

Also, when did you get this car? I thought you just had the pickup. Looks nice!

jbozzelle wrote:How much shallower you going on the pan?  Don't got too far or else you may end up with some bad windage issues as the oil climbs the back of the pan as you haul the mail down the track...

Also, when did you get this car?  I thought you just had the pickup.  Looks nice!

Thank you! I got this car about a year ago, came across a lot of cars a man was selling due to his friend passing away. I had a choice between this and a 1850hp 76 Nova, I got this one because I couldn't afford to maintain the Nova at the time. Plus this is a street car and its totally my style, green is my favorite color as well I've made quite a few upgrades to it. The pan on it right now is a modified stock pan with tubes for cooling and baffles, it is deep rather than kicking out on the sides. Now that I look at it more, the headers may now become an issue.