switch panel ?

I'm building my own switch panel this time and was wondering if I can use a 35amp toggle switch for main power to all my other switches and just jump power from one to the other. That way I only have one power wire to feed

Unless you are running solenoids, the current draw from a couple electric items will fry that switch.

That's what I was thinking, would I be better off with a power junction and feed from that?

I'm powering fuel pump, ignition, water pump, blinkers,

Could run a tie bar between all the switches and a 50 amp breaker but won't be nhra legal. You need to wire the switches so that you kill the fuel pump when the ignition switch is killed.

On mine I ran a single fuse for the ignition and fuel pump, I have the fuel pump switch ran off a jumper wire that comes off of the output of the ignition switch. That way when I shut off the ignition the fuel pump switch is also shut off.

gmsmkr wrote:That's what I was thinking, would I be better off with a power junction and feed from that?

I'm powering fuel pump, ignition, water pump, blinkers,

Not trying to throw a wrench in you deal but why fool with all that???

Painless Wiring #50302.............$175.00 to your door ...  (roll bar mount)
[/b](came out of the Mustang switched to a ARC 12 switch)



just an idea.... the "easy button"

I'm still using the stock dash and wanted to fill the naked spot.

I bought this fuse panel from whatabumper off here and mounted right be hind my switch panel with main power going to it then each switch has a fuse to it. That way if one should short it would not go through all the switches I think it was only $20.

69F100 wrote:I bought this fuse panel from whatabumper off here and mounted right be hind my switch panel with main power going to it then each switch has a fuse to it. That way if one should short it would not go through all the switches I think it was only $20.

is this the picture as it is right now, and is this the way you are running it?

the Coug wrote:

69F100 wrote:I bought this fuse panel from whatabumper off here and mounted right be hind my switch panel with main power going to it then each switch has a fuse to it. That way if one should short it would not go through all the switches I think it was only $20.

is this the picture as it is right now, and is this the way you are running it?

yes but with small fuses the main power is off the battery discount switch

You will need a power junction, if the Painless type system works for you they do work really well and ease the installation is worth the time saved (fused, lighted, dedicated) if not you can use a block like the one above or you can make your own (lighted is helpful). Wiring is probably one of the most overlooked systems in most cars in my opinion, wiring doesn't weigh that much in a minimal application so I prefer redundancy (tie 2- main power wires together in case something happens 30-sec change), solder all connections, weather-pack connectors instead of bullets etc. If you are running 2-batteries I prefer to isolate them and divide the circuits with only start and run items on one(ign, fuel,starter,NOS(wtr pmp)), and all the accessories on the other(fans,lights,etc.) if you use the 4-terminal master disconnect switch you only have to move one terminal to power everything off of the good battery.

69F100 wrote:I bought this fuse panel from whatabumper off here and mounted right be hind my switch panel with main power going to it then each switch has a fuse to it. That way if one should short it would not go through all the switches I think it was only $20.

I was just wondering if you knew what you had and did? Do you know those are crip heat shrink wire ends? after you crimp them you heat shrink them and it melts solder and shrinks it all at the same time. if not they sure look like the ones we use that are that way....

69F100 wrote:I bought this fuse panel from whatabumper off here and mounted right be hind my switch panel with main power going to it then each switch has a fuse to it. That way if one should short it would not go through all the switches I think it was only $20.

This is just what I need thanks for sharing that pic

the Coug wrote:

69F100 wrote:I bought this fuse panel from whatabumper off here and mounted right be hind my switch panel with main power going to it then each switch has a fuse to it. That way if one should short it would not go through all the switches I think it was only $20.

I was just wondering if you knew what you had and did?    Do you know those are crip heat shrink wire ends? after you crimp them you heat shrink them and it melts solder and shrinks it all at the same time. if not they sure look like the ones we use that are that way....

Good eye Randy yes they are the heat shrink we also you them at work my little torch was out of gas matter of fact I have not pulled the wires back off and heated them yet. A cigarette lighter don't do a very good job just need to remember to get another can of butane for the torch so I can heat them right.