Good safe place to start with base timming ?

dfree383 wrote:Have you bothered to make sure your timing marks are correct

Yes it is correct . So what next ? Thanks

Check and see how much the timing is advancing. Bushing it to add 25 shoot it to 3; degrees and your initial timing should be 9*. It should start fine at. 9 then lighten the springs to make sure it's all in by 3500. That will be a very close starting point. Always read plugs after a WFO run cutting the ignition and dropping throttle and cost to the drive or turn around road. Do t idle as it will kill the reading.

Did you try to crank it over hot with the ignition off, and see if it helped?

IDT-572 wrote:Check and see how much the timing is advancing. Bushing it to add 25 shoot it to 3; degrees and your initial timing should be 9*. It should start fine at. 9 then lighten the springs to make sure it's all in by 3500. That will be a very close starting point.   Always read plugs after a WFO run cutting the ignition and dropping throttle and cost to the drive or turn around road. Do t idle as it will kill the reading.

I did this^^^^^ and it did help some , but the cranking issue is bothering me !

Does it spin over easily with the ignition off?

It shouldn't turn over hard w/strong Batt. hitorq starter and good cables. Something is missing.

Good ground?   4 gauge direct from starter ear to frame?  Battery to frame 2 gauge or larger?
How long a run of power wire?  What gauge cable?  What switch configuration?  Old fender solenoid and hi torque solenoid?  Just to hi torque solenoid?    Trunk mount battery?   Which cut off switch?

Spins over some what easier with ignition off . I will be getting the starter warrantied out and adding a ground from starter ear to frame. I haven't ever had a issue like this before ! This is a learning curve for me

kim wrote:Good ground?   4 gauge direct from starter ear to frame?  Battery to frame 2 gauge or larger?
How long a run of power wire?  What gauge cable?  What switch configuration?  Old fender solenoid and hi torque solenoid?  Just to hi torque solenoid?    Trunk mount battery?   Which cut off switch?

Fender solenoid with high torque solenoid , trunk mounted battery ,no cut off switch at this time.
I have a ground from battery to frame , one ground from intake to fire wall ,power wire runs the entire length of car from trunk to fire wall .2 gauge wire .

I would also crank it over cold with the ignition off, before you go changing everything, just for a test. I would also have someone check battery voltage hot and cold ignition on and off while cranking, for reference. It could be alot of things, and with a new motor even more.

Get rid of the fender solenoid.  Your getting a soft hit on the high torque solenoid.  Run your power wire direct to hi torque.   Run your starter switch wire direct to hi torque.  If you need an under hood power point conection, get a small fuse pannel or something of that ilk.

^^^ So how close are your headers to the solenoid? The Chevy guys want the Ford fender solenoid. It won't stop the dragging, but the other way you might get a click, because the solenoid coil wire drops voltage when it gets hot, and the bendix does not want to kick out. If its a race only deal, losing the fender solenoid makes sense as the wire is shorter, and one less weak contact point.

My starter is tucked into my oil pan and surrounded by header. Remove and replace is done with 36" extensions from behind trans and front of engine.  Works better.... without the fender solenoid.

Kim's right.  No need to double up on solenoids.  That fender mounted relay was necessary for the old Ford centrifugal starters.  Some guys keep using them because there was always one there before.  If your starter has a piggy backed magnetic solenoid, the fender relay is counter productive.

Glad you're making headway.

maverick wrote:Kim's right.  No need to double up on solenoids.  That fender mounted relay was necessary for the old Ford centrifugal starters.  Some guys keep using them because there was always one there before.  If your starter has a piggy backed magnetic solenoid, the fender relay is counter productive.

Glad you're making headway.

Thanks for all the help this far ! I will be working on it tomorrow and see what the out come is .

Hey whitey if this is in the car I think it is and you are ready.... I will take the rolling chassis off your hands

gmsmkr wrote:Hey whitey if this is in the car I think it is and you are ready.... I will take the rolling chassis off your hands

I have worked on here to long , I think I will keeper .! But you may have possession of her over the winter

New spark plugs are in carb is adjusted correct and idle is good .Starting is better near perfect, but now the thing has either a lifters or cam shaft going down !

Dang son you need to add a little more in the collection plate on Sunday. Hate the bad luck dude

All be shit....

Flat tappet? Roller?

kim wrote:Flat tappet? Roller?

Hyd flat tappet. The lifters act as if they are collapsing ! I did a quick check before I had to get ready for church . When you crank it over watching the valve opens all the way you can watch the rocker arm go back down. The lifter is leaking down ! Oil psi cold at idle is 80 and at 190 degrees it is 20 at idle , throttle it and oil psi is very responsive.

With the engine hot and the oil thin the plunger will go down on a hydraulic lifter if stopped at full lift. Is it making noise while running? And are any of the rocker arms not opening the valve as far as the rest (lobe down)?

20 lb idling is ok as long as it comes up with rpm.

IDT-572 wrote:With the engine hot and the oil thin the plunger will go down on a hydraulic lifter if stopped at full lift. Is it making noise while running? And are  any of the rocker arms not opening the valve as far as the rest (lobe down)?

20 lb idling is ok as long as it comes up with rpm.  

 

Yes oil pressure goes up when throttled , it is noise up top but not as loud as a solid flatt tappet cam. Looks like one on number 8 exhaust valve not opening the valve as much as the others.

bbf-falcon wrote:It shouldn't turn over hard w/strong Batt. hitorq starter and good cables. Something is missing.

X2,i don't even have a hi torque mini starter.I have the regular old school starter with the starter solenoid in the engine compartment by the battery and never have starting issues.466 ci SRP flat top piston and Aluminum A-429 heads with timing at 22 initial and 35 total.