Running Warm

FalconEh wrote:If you remove the pump and there is no backing plate and the pump is in good condition, you have likely found the problem, no point in replacing a pump for no gain, or if not in need of replacement. Do you smell antifreeze in the cab when the heater is on (sweet smell)? You mentioned the hoses bypassed the heater core in an earlier post the heater core could have a blockage, many will say it cannot cause overheating but it can, many people flush the rad with a kit and do not bypass the heater core and all the sediment from the cooling system ends up in blockages in the heater core and it can cause an issue with temps. Try bypassing the heater core again and see if that cures the problem.

The loop was when i first purchased the bronco.


(doesn't look like the same engine at this point)

Since that time, I have installed a brand new Nostalgic Heat and AC that included new heater core. Heat works great and no leaks. To bad it is summer time.
THe AC works great also, but requires me to shut the heater core mixture valve.

One thing I have been curious about, what is the little dip stick for behind the water pump?

checking the oil.

cool40 wrote: checking the oil.

Checking the oil for what the timing chain?  It is only about 7 inches long.  I have a oil pan dip stick on the driver side.

I am not the sharpest knife in the box but I do check my oil.

FSU_Bronco wrote:

cool40 wrote: checking the oil.

Checking the oil for what the timing chain?  It is only about 7 inches long.  I have a oil pan dip stick on the driver side.

I am not the sharpest knife in the box but I do check my oil.

AS SAID ... it is for checking the oil as that is the oil dipstick.  How do you know how long that dipstick tube is inside, below what is showing on top...?  

Some oil pan sumps are NOT in the rear but, in the front and that stick normally goes down into the oil pan to check the level of the oil.

IF this has been converted to a rear sump situation, it is merely filling the hole.

So you have a rear sump pan now? That one in your pic would be the factory dipstick but sounds like you have a different pan? I'm not questioning how sharp you are ,or not.

rmcomprandy wrote:

AS SAID ... it is for checking the oil as that is the oil dipstick.  How do you know how long that dipstick tube is inside, below what is showing on top...?  

Some oil pan sumps are NOT in the rear but, in the front and that stick normally goes down into the oil pan to check the level of the oil.

IF this has been converted to a rear sump situation, it is merely filling the hole.

That makes sense, it is a rear sump. (Now). Just seemed strange that there was another dip stick that was only 7 inches long I assume someone just cut it off at some point I guess and when I had the oil pan off I paid no mind to it. Guess if I had pulled the dipstick at that time I would have seen light.

Thanks for the answers though, even though I kinda took my own thread off topic. More worried about keeping my oil cool than checking it right now.

cool40 wrote:So you have a rear sump pan now? That one in your pic would be the factory dipstick but sounds like you have a different pan? I'm not questioning how sharp you are ,or not.

Yes rear sump, I guess that is pretty normal on 4x4's.

I would be suspect of the clutch fan I see in the picture

FalconEh wrote:I would be suspect of the clutch fan I see in the picture

That is an old picture. I am running a direct drive 19" Flex a lite fan. That worn out clutch fan is the reason I had issues before.

It is not uncommon for an air car to run 10-15^ warmer (typically why they use more cores in the rad), if you are on the cusp it can be daunting. Verify the water pump impeller and backing plate, if that is not the issue speed it up like Randy mentioned, or add an electric fan which which should make up the difference. It appears to be close to performing and barring anything like an upside down head gasket, that should get what you need.

So this morning was the first time I got to actually get out and drive it after putting the shroud on. While it is running cooler sitting in the garage at both the valve open and valve closed positions it is running hotter on the road. Valve open 195+ Valve Closed 205+.

When I installed the shroud, I had to reduce the size of the flex fan from a 19 3/8 to 18 1/4 to maintain 1" of clearance between the fan blades and the shroud edges. I also had to move from a 3.5" spacer to a 2.25" spacer so the fan would sit a little over half way into the shroud.

Before Shroud Install



After Shroud Install





So my conclusion so far is it actually cooled better with the larger fan closer to the radiator with no shroud than the 1" smaller fan 1" further from the radiator with a shroud. So that was basically $170 thrown down a drain.

Now that I can get back to a flow issue and not a (shroud ) issue, I guess it is time to drain the system and pull the pump and thermostat.