Cap walk problems

I tryed one of dhem there girdles on my ride , kind with the heavy straps and handles , I dont know if my rod reached the girdle, but it didn't help flex at all, she still flexed when necessary . If she wears her cap loose like a gangsta girl it will walk around and eventually fall off,solution tighter cap .

the Coug wrote:for a fact the way the are connected to the main caps it don't make a FREAKIN Hill of beans which one you use, they DO NOT WORK.........The Main cap bows in the middle out and the Stupid Girdle does not even touch it there to stop anything..... The only thing they are good for is removing cash from your Wallet......I don't care if the girdle was 10 inches thick the washers let the cap bow.....



Randy

This 100 percent correct. All the girdle does is hold in the broken parts from hitting the track. I would install 4 bolt caps before spending the money on a main girdle or valley girdle. Sometimes the truth hurts.

I also agree with using the 2.200 rod journal, no reason to have a rod journal the size of many main bearings!.

Pantyhose.....................

DILLIGASDAVE wrote:

blown473 wrote:I can see why "CHILLY" banned you...

I would rather have Randy's (or anyone's) raw/honest/uncensored opinion on most any subject vs getting the play nice "agree to disagree" bull siht. Or worse no usable feedback at all cuz of yes men having no opinions & agreeing with anything said.

Political correctness be damned.

One thing I've learned about "Da Coug" is he'll never candy coat anything, and I will always respect that. Coug will call BS when it's being tossed out there. Get em Coug.

blown473 wrote:I can see why "CHILLY" banned you...

Being banned from that crapper is an honor, right Freelander?

schmitty wrote:

blown473 wrote:I can see why "CHILLY" banned you...

Being banned from that crapper is an honor, right Freelander?

I've been ban by better for a whole lot more......

the torture never stops...

I dont know much but I have seen many people spend a whole lot more in the long run trying to save money, than the people who did it right the first time... with everything ie: computers, houses, race bikes, cars, boats...it goes on and on.

anyway continue...

Some one say ban??? where,,, who,,, when,,,???

Ya'll stay on topic....

Here is my opinion..

Girdles "halo types" don't help, but the type that of main caps like what is on the newwer engine blocks that tie the mains into the block help.

Ford Factory cast iron crankshafts a tuff sun of a guns and is in some ways better than the cast steel crankshafts.

For stroker crankshafts I believe Paul Kane has a nice set of drawing examples of main / rod journal over lap on his website.

Smaller the journal the better, Subaru, Honda journals anyone! (Depends on application) Less weight and friction surface.

Nothing wrong with spending money on upgrading a 2 bolt block to a 4 bolt if that is all you can afford. $400 is still cheaper than $2,000.

If you are shooting for the moon, don't kid yourself it's going to take some money to make that type of power. Since you will be spending atleast 4,000 on the top side of the engine why not 2,000 on the bottom end got to keep the build in prospective.

I had the Mondello tool steel cap straps installed on my #2,3, and 4 caps.

I guess time will tell if it was worthwhile or not.

Unless I remember wrong, it was Dave McLain that mentioned that one of the keys to engine building was to avoid overbuilding.

Greg

Greg_P wrote:I had the Mondello tool steel cap straps installed on my #2,3, and 4 caps.

I guess time will tell if it was worthwhile or not.

Unless I remember wrong, it was Dave McLain that mentioned that one of the keys to engine building was to avoid overbuilding.

Greg

Yes Greg but there is also such thing as under building it also....


Randy

That's a good point, Coug, and one that I have been wrestling with for a couple of months now as I was thinking of options with my engine.

I believe that if the engine was living with the cast crank and ass loads of cap walk before, the forged crank and the cap straps SHOULD improve things. I can't see whare they would hurt at this point.

Greg

jones wrote:Some one say ban??? where,,, who,,, when,,,???

Ya'll stay on topic....

Here is my opinion..

Girdles "halo types" don't help, but the type that of main caps like what is on the newwer engine blocks that tie the mains into the block help.

Ford Factory cast iron crankshafts a tuff sun of a guns and is in some ways better than the cast steel crankshafts.

For stroker crankshafts I believe Paul Kane has a nice set of drawing examples of main / rod journal over lap on his website.

Smaller the journal the better, Subaru, Honda journals anyone! (Depends on application) Less weight and friction surface.

Nothing wrong with spending money on upgrading a 2 bolt block to a 4 bolt if that is all you can afford. $400 is still cheaper than $2,000.

If you are shooting for the moon, don't kid yourself it's going to take some money to make that type of power. Since you will be spending atleast 4,000 on the top side of the engine why not 2,000 on the bottom end got to keep the build in prospective.

Caps three center $300-400
Install three center $100
Align Bore three center $100
Align hone three center $20 1.5 hrs if problems $125


These are prices from my local machine shop $725 worst case deal for installing aftermarket caps
Usually $520.00

My Cat caps cost $69.00 and I installed them myself. Shop had trouble align honing them ( first time they had done a set )

Cost to do my caps $189.00

How many people have their own machine shop?
I think that is one of the things you have to look at also. You have some folks that say "just add caps it's cheap" then you have others that have been through the mess with the local maching shop. The machine shop that has never worked on a BBF nor has the proper equipment to do a line-hone and it cost them out the butt crack. Where in the end it's would have been much easier to have bought a A460 block from someone who already had done the not so common machine work for them. Since they are wanting to build a 1,000hp engine from the get go.

Point is you have to think about what type of machine shops you have avaliable in your area and your budget / time line.

Blake don't for get you know what you want done and know how to ask for it, alot of people with out the knowlage are better off just bitting the bullet and getting a better block IMO.

Good point, Jones.

In my particular case, I was looking at CAT caps. Sure, they are cheap. But the only machine shop local to me that would touch them was a shop that had never installed a set before, and they did not have a line bore machine, just a line hone setup so they just didn't know what they were getting into. Another shop said they would do their best, but they couldn't guarantee that the caps would machine right.

I did not want to chance ruining my block trying to install those cheap ass caps, and I did not want to sink the $$$ required for say a Milodon cap setup into this stock block, especially since I'm looking into aftermarket blocks for the next build.

Greg

I was just trying to show, depending on the situation and area, the difference in the cost of a 4 bolt conversion.

Premium caps and a high end cost machine shop and you could be over $1000.00 getting the caps on vs. mine at less than $200.00.

I have a nice Dove Block and I have a set of Ford A460 Caps I am going to install on that block but I am going to do most of the machining myself. only having to get the caps clipped and line honed....only after I sonic check the block..... or will pull a few more blocks out of storage and find one that will bore 4.5.......




Randy

Randy,

Keep me posted on the A460 caps install on the DOVE block. I have a DOVE block that may need some in the future

D. Sea wrote:Randy,

Keep me posted on the A460 caps install on the DOVE block. I have a DOVE block that may need some in the future

will do


Randy

well see... lost of chatter in the instructions about register depth , and clearance