N code 429

Thanks supervel45, I like the look of the specs, I'll research the cam more. Do you think it with work well with the stock head and a 942-16 springs and retainers? Lift isn't too high? I don't plan really on spinning the motor harder than 5,500 RPM. It has an all stock bottom end.

I ran an Isky that was about .530 lift with no problems with seal clearance. Not sure about the 942 springs, they show a 115lb seat pressure at 1.70" installed height so it will be even less at typical BBF height. I would like the 972's or 926's better myself. You asked about spreadbores also. The old Edelbrock QJet 850 #1910 was nice if you can find one and want to go that route, pricey though for a used one.

Are you sure you where not thinking of the 940 spring, that's what Comp. shows for their small 429/460 cams?

Your correct, do some people use other single springs? I'm used to 351 Clevelands

I have. The 940 spring is listed for 351C also in the Comp Catalog. I used 351C SVO singlesW/ Damper springs on my 429.

Did you use the stock retainers and locks or Comp Cams?

threedwizard wrote:Did you use the stock retainers and locks or Comp Cams?

No it was all old Ford SVO stuff, locks retainers and springs. If you go with the Comp. springs I suggest you do the same and use their matching parts. The cam I linked is closer to a Comp 270 then the 268 in both lift and duration is why I suggested the 926 spring as it is the same as the 270H spring recommendation from Comp..

I thought that would be the answer. Last question, what do you think is a safe RPM for the stock bottom end of a 429 TJ? I know everyone claims the rod bolts are the weak point, but how weak?

In my opinion, I would keep it below 6,500 Rpm. With the cams we are discussing it won't matter much as they will be flat before 6K anyway.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-3500

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-3501

Couple of other you may want to check out also. I like the Comp. better but, these don't look too bad and are half the price and may save you a spring change also.

Everyone does not claim the the rod bolts are the weak point. When a rod fails, usually the beam breaks closer the the big end.

Sorry, poor choice of words. The most common rumor I've heard is rod bolt being weak. Keep in mind I'm not racing, just trying to make a good strong motor for a nice Torino.

BTW, does anyone make a hydraulic lifter version of the SCJ cam or similar? In the 351C world, I have a hydraulic lifter version of the Boss 351 cam that is a solid lifter.

Also, has anyone ever just port matched a TJ intake, and ported D0VE heads, then put a CJ cam in an engine. I'm sure that would be a nice runner with headers or stock matched manifolds.

Thanks

Threed. as far as the camshaft is concerned, there are guys on here who can design any cam you want--Randy Malik, Lem Evans, Scott Johnston--are just a few who come to mind right off the bat.

threedwizard wrote:Sorry, poor choice of words. The most common rumor I've heard is rod bolt being weak. Keep in mind I'm not racing, just trying to make a good strong motor for a nice Torino.

BTW, does anyone make a hydraulic lifter version of the SCJ cam or similar? In the 351C world, I have a hydraulic lifter version of the Boss 351 cam that is a solid lifter.

Also, has anyone ever just port matched a TJ intake, and ported D0VE heads, then put a CJ cam in an engine. I'm sure that would be a nice runner with headers or stock matched manifolds.

Thanks

If your going to go hyd cj cam you might as well leave the stock cam in it, waste of time. you said you wanted it better?

I'm not afraid of a custom cam, can anyone of the names mentioned by 1EFF100 take private messages? I would need their usernames to search them.

Thanks Guys

boss 429, i"m confused as to why you think making a cam cam the CJ cam is a waste? I'm not convinced that there's only 10hp difference between the 429-Thunderjet (360hp) and the 429-Cobrajet (370hp), when you consider the old Ford Muscle Parts buildups. They show a gain of 79hp by just taking a 429-TJ and turning it into a 429-CJ with headers, cam, intake, and Holley. It would have to run harder, and it's a quick change out with a timing chain while I'm cleaning and painting. The parts are maybe $400 total. Remember, I'm not arguing, just questioning.

Thanks

heads,ehx, intake,manifold, thunder jet, very diff from a cj/scj.


scj/cj both have the same cam,1 hyd 1 solid, you lose a lot with the hyd. done enough to know. just not worth it. , now if you go larger hyd, thats diff if you want to stay hyd. just dont bother with a stock cj cam

I see what you thinking, I really is all about the heads on the CJ. What Cam do you like in a stock TJ? I can change valve springs, but don't plan on removing the heads to work guides or anything.

Just remember that you still have old valves and if you try to run the highest lift you can on stock heads. You need stronger springs and that will have more pressure on the valve not saying you will ever have one to let go. Only reason I have had one let go years ago on my 351c 4v just might be something to think about.

My $.02

     I think many have been giving great advice to help you get what you want. Reading this post you do not "want to remove the heads...numbers matching", however you do not have to change the heads, but I would recommend you remove them it is not much more work than changing the cam. I am not sure what has been done to this engine, but the spring change, inspection/change of the pushrods/valves, and valve seats (hardened for UL fuel) keepers retainers, not to mention the changing of the head gaskets, and re-torquing bolts (x2) for the newly found cylinder pressure the cam will bring should give you much more reliability for a few dollars and a little more work. The best way to spend those hard earned dollars is once.JMO

Please post a picture of the Torino!!

FalconEh, in all this exchange, your absolutely correct. In my experience with restoration, you hate to take apart something that runs fine, but the engine is out and torn apart to be cleaned and painted. Not a big deal to pull the heads and freshen them. Maybe them same on the short block. Some rings, bearings, rod bolts, oil pump. It's just money right??

So on that line, what's a cost effective forged piston? Best cast for the money? Haven't rebuilt a short block in a while and I plan on having this around a while.

How do I post a picture, it won't take the . JPEG file?? Says max file size 0 kb

It's always a catch 22. High compression non hardened valve seats, ect. If it runs good leave it alone and go get a latter model 460 with hardened valve seats and bore it out if you are going to change pistons and rebuild it, IE put the money in one that actually needs the work. Sure you will spend another $150 or more for the core but, you will have two good engines then and one that is 31 cubes bigger more suited to pump gas. Just my .02 cents also.

PS: Piston selection is not very good on a 429 either especially forged ones, compared to a 460.

threedwizard wrote:FalconEh, in all this exchange, your absolutely correct. In my experience with restoration, you hate to take apart something that runs fine, but the engine is out and torn apart to be cleaned and painted. Not a big deal to pull the heads and freshen them. Maybe them same on the short block. Some rings, bearings, rod bolts, oil pump. It's just money right??

So on that line, what's a cost effective forged piston? Best cast for the money? Haven't rebuilt a short block in a while and I plan on having this around a while.

threedwizard,
I cannot honestly answer this based off of what is right for me is not what is right for everybody, Risks vs Reward is a big question, collect-ability questions, finance questions, wants, goals etc. the red flag for me is the 'quest for more power" and "numbers matching" used together,and how it fits with the project goals, I am not trying to change your direction I have just found that the top end has the most moving parts that are more prone to failure potentially causing catastrophic failures. By removing the heads you get a look at the state of the bottom end at the very least and have a better idea if there are issues below or if you are comfortable increasing the power levels. "Just adding a camshaft" could be the end of the numbers matching so you must decide your goals and approach them accordingly. I know this doesn't answer your questions, but it helps to clarify me adding my $.02