Street build 2,000-3,000 budget

Wanting to build my 460. Going to do rings and bearings just not sure what cams, heads, headers, carb and intake I should run. I might be willing to go a little over budget but want something that is reliable and has plenty of get up and go. This truck will still haul a trailer fairly regularly just am not happy with the 360 that is in my 71 f250

That's a tight budget, but it can still be done if your engine is in good mechanical shape to begin with.
If it just needs a freshen up like rings, bearings, gaskets, seals, valve job, etc. then you are ahead of the $$ game.
Just a mild cam with an early 68-71 timing set and some decent heads (like C8VE, C9VE, or D0VE) with a little port cleanup, an Edelbrock Performer intake with a 750 CFM carb (preferably a Holley), a set of headers and free flowing exhaust, and you'll blow past 400 horses with a little fine tuning.

I don't see why it would cost more than 3k if you did most the work yourself.

if my budget was 2000 to 3000 it would be spent on boring, decking, honing and ring fitting.

What would a more reasonable budget be if I'm wanting to go in deeper than just that. That was just a rough estimate. I'm more familiar with small blocks than I am big blocks but want my old f250 to have power to actually pull something like it was made to.

Stock type rebuild with a good valve job and camshaft change using an aftermarket intake manifold is all you can do; if you want to do it right.

what randy said above... a quality stock build tightening up the quench, good ring seal, camshaft, manifold, exhaust, degree the camshaft . it will perform MUCH better than the 360. You didn't mention what core you are starting with.

wayne

wayney wrote:what randy said above... a quality stock build tightening up the quench, good ring seal, camshaft, manifold, exhaust, degree the  camshaft . it will perform MUCH better than the 360. You didn't mention what core you are starting with.

wayne

The motor I have is coming out of a 86 f350. How big of a budget would I be talking to get new heads that are better than the 86 ones. I know I've heard that you are better off with earlier heads or new heads because of porting issues. I'd like to get rid of all the extra emissions crap that is on the 86. I'm not afraid to spend some more money on it I might just have to push my build back a little bit.

FordMan97 wrote:

wayney wrote:what randy said above... a quality stock build tightening up the quench, good ring seal, camshaft, manifold, exhaust, degree the  camshaft . it will perform MUCH better than the 360. You didn't mention what core you are starting with.

wayne

The motor I have is coming out of a 86 f350. How big of a budget would I be talking to get new heads that are better than the 86 ones. I know I've heard that you are better off with earlier heads or new heads because of porting issues. I'd like to get rid of all the extra emissions crap that is on the 86. I'm not afraid to spend some more money on it I might just have to push my build back a little bit.

You're heads are fine with a good high performance valve job and set-up correctly.
Just use flat-top pistons and have the block decks machined square with -.015"/.020" deck clearance in a stock type rebuild instead of dished pistons to make the compression ratio right around 9.7/1 ratio.
Buy a Performer RPM intake manifold or equivalent.
Get a custom hydraulic flat tappet cam to match everything.

Now, if you do most of the assembly work, it is still within your original budget.

Awesome and yes I will be doing all of the assembly myself

Awesome and yes I will be doing all of the assembly myself

4.300 Scat crank , stock rods , low compression aftermarket pistons small hydraulic cam stock intake. 4,000 rpm torque monster. I know I could do it for 3,000 tops. 'Extra " machine work like you would do on a "race" engine isn't necessary and costs more money. 50 inches is an easy 50 hp minimum. Do the headers and intake later when more funds are available.

How much weight do you plan on towing? I think you would be suprized at how much more power and torque a 1972 and up stock 460 makes over a 360. A warmed over one like RM is describing and a like GT350R mentioned 514/523 even more so especially on low end power. The advantage of the stroker is with a cam intake and head change can be down later but, is overkill if you are not racing. It will be very traction limited with all of the above with stock suspension and regular street radials.

supervel45 wrote:How much weight do you plan on towing? I think you would be suprized at how much more power and torque a 1972 and up stock 460 makes over a 360. A warmed over one like RM is describing and a  like GT350R mentioned 514/523 even more so especially on low end power. The advantage of the stroker is with a cam intake and head change can be down later but, is overkill if you are not racing. It will be very traction limited with all of the above with stock suspension and regular street radials.

It wont be anything crazy that I will be hauling I was kinda thinking about just doing new mains, rods, intake, carb, cam, and headers. I don't want to be stock necessarily, but I'm not wanting to be the extreme either. Kind of what I am wanting to do is get it better sounding and add some throttle response.

FordMan97 wrote:

supervel45 wrote:How much weight do you plan on towing? I think you would be suprized at how much more power and torque a 1972 and up stock 460 makes over a 360. A warmed over one like RM is describing and a  like GT350R mentioned 514/523 even more so especially on low end power. The advantage of the stroker is with a cam intake and head change can be down later but, is overkill if you are not racing. It will be very traction limited with all of the above with stock suspension and regular street radials.

It wont be anything crazy that I will be hauling I was kinda thinking about just doing new mains, rods, intake, carb, cam, and headers. I don't want to be stock necessarily, but I'm not wanting to be the extreme either. Kind of what I am wanting to do is get it better sounding and add some throttle response.

For what you are after ... at least bore it and put new flat-top pistons in it .
Silv-o-lite #3191H cast hypereutectic replacement pistons ... .020" - .030" - .040" - .060" over-sizes are available along with std. size - bore & hone the least amount necessary.
These pistons use regular O.E.M. production type ring sets.

rmcomprandy wrote:

FordMan97 wrote:

supervel45 wrote:How much weight do you plan on towing? I think you would be suprized at how much more power and torque a 1972 and up stock 460 makes over a 360. A warmed over one like RM is describing and a  like GT350R mentioned 514/523 even more so especially on low end power. The advantage of the stroker is with a cam intake and head change can be down later but, is overkill if you are not racing. It will be very traction limited with all of the above with stock suspension and regular street radials.

It wont be anything crazy that I will be hauling I was kinda thinking about just doing new mains, rods, intake, carb, cam, and headers. I don't want to be stock necessarily, but I'm not wanting to be the extreme either. Kind of what I am wanting to do is get it better sounding and add some throttle response.

For what you are after ... at least bore it and put new flat-top pistons in it .
Silv-o-lite #3191H cast hypereutectic replacement pistons ... .020" - .030" - .040" - .060" over-sizes are available along with std. size - bore & hone the least amount necessary.
These pistons use regular O.E.M. production type ring sets.

Alright I think that will be the way I go!

rmcomprandy wrote:

FordMan97 wrote:

wayney wrote:what randy said above... a quality stock build tightening up the quench, good ring seal, camshaft, manifold, exhaust, degree the  camshaft . it will perform MUCH better than the 360. You didn't mention what core you are starting with.

wayne

The motor I have is coming out of a 86 f350. How big of a budget would I be talking to get new heads that are better than the 86 ones. I know I've heard that you are better off with earlier heads or new heads because of porting issues. I'd like to get rid of all the extra emissions crap that is on the 86. I'm not afraid to spend some more money on it I might just have to push my build back a little bit.

You're heads are fine with a good high performance valve job and set-up correctly.
Just use flat-top pistons and have the block decks machined square with -.015"/.020" deck clearance in a stock type rebuild instead of dished pistons to make the compression ratio right around 9.7/1 ratio.
Buy a Performer RPM intake manifold or equivalent.
Get a custom hydraulic flat tappet cam to match everything.

Now, if you do most of the assembly work, it is still within your original budget.

One last question. What is your preference when it comes to camshafts? Just to have another opinion I know that just about everybody makes them but don't know who is good when it comes to big blocks. This is a whole different game compared to my small blocks I have.

FordMan97 wrote:

rmcomprandy wrote:

FordMan97 wrote:

wayney wrote:what randy said above... a quality stock build tightening up the quench, good ring seal, camshaft, manifold, exhaust, degree the  camshaft . it will perform MUCH better than the 360. You didn't mention what core you are starting with.

wayne

The motor I have is coming out of a 86 f350. How big of a budget would I be talking to get new heads that are better than the 86 ones. I know I've heard that you are better off with earlier heads or new heads because of porting issues. I'd like to get rid of all the extra emissions crap that is on the 86. I'm not afraid to spend some more money on it I might just have to push my build back a little bit.

You're heads are fine with a good high performance valve job and set-up correctly.
Just use flat-top pistons and have the block decks machined square with -.015"/.020" deck clearance in a stock type rebuild instead of dished pistons to make the compression ratio right around 9.7/1 ratio.
Buy a Performer RPM intake manifold or equivalent.
Get a custom hydraulic flat tappet cam to match everything.

Now, if you do most of the assembly work, it is still within your original budget.

One last question. What is your preference when it comes to camshafts? Just to have another opinion I know that just about everybody makes them but don't know who is good when it comes to big blocks. This is a whole different game compared to my small blocks I have.

Get something custom ground for your exact application.
Not much more money ... just takes a bit of time, if you don't need it immediately.

rmcomprandy wrote:

Get something custom ground for your exact application.
Not much more money ... just takes a bit of time, if you don't need it immediately.

100 x that statement. Buy one from someone on here that is familiar with big block Fords not your typical local chevy shop.