Stock block max H/P

With all the horsepower adders and builds my question is, What is the Maximum HP would you push a stock block on the drag strip?

so many different variables to give a good answer to this question. from what power adder to who's doing the machine work/assembly. No 2 answers will even be close to the same.

Naturally aspirated, gasoline motor. Plenty of builds going to the 1000 hp, so the ? is do they survive 125 rounds? 250 rounds? 500 runs? or are they just waiting to be picked up of the track.

airford1 wrote:do they survive 125 rounds?

Yes.

airford1 wrote:250 runs?

Yes.

airford1 wrote:500 runs?

Yes.

airford1 wrote:...or are they just waiting to be picked up of the track.

Yes.

If you’re putting good enough parts inside to support 1K hp and the result is that the block is now the weak link why use a stock block?

wickettoby1 wrote:If you’re putting good enough parts inside to support 1K hp and the result is that the block is now the weak link why use a stock block?

Good point.

Paul Kane wrote:

airford1 wrote:do they survive 125 rounds?

Yes.

airford1 wrote:250 runs?

Yes.

airford1 wrote:500 runs?

Yes.

airford1 wrote:...or are they just waiting to be picked up of the track.

Yes.

Point well taken Thanks

Some of the guru's on here build engines for specific types/classes of competition that have size or component restrictions, those are the only cases where it makes sense to me to push the envelope.

Remember the saying, buy once cry once.

Stock block issues.
My experience using a D9TE block making around 850 hp. It was a 547 with 13.5 to 1 on E85. Cap walk was an issue. Oil control at the end of the track was difficult to handle.
If you want to be a little conservative to save your block and make power. Use a 4.3" crank and spin it faster. Bush the lifter bores for better oil control.
Stay away from detonation by keeping the timing conservative and water temperature below 180 with plugs on the cold side of heat range. Others will disagree that a 4.5" crank is more stress on a 2 bolt bottom but I'll never do that again.
If you're planning on running it in that Maverick 4.3" stroke will probably be best for your package and good for a front sump pan.

Dave De wrote:Stock block issues.
My experience using a D9TE block making around 850 hp. It was a 547 with 13.5 to 1 on E85. Cap walk was an issue. Oil control at the end of the track was difficult to handle.
If you want to be a little conservative to save your block and make power. Use a 4.3" crank and spin it faster. Bush the lifter bores for better oil control.
Stay away from detonation by keeping the timing conservative and water temperature below 180 with plugs on the cold side of heat range. Others will disagree that a 4.5" crank is more stress on a 2 bolt bottom but I'll never do that again.
If you're planning on running it in that Maverick 4.3" stroke will probably be best for your package and good for a front sump pan.

Running a 545 with 10.4 comp on 91 gas. 30 fixed timing and a big radiator. 650 hp and tq at the flywheel with old box stock Blue Thunder heads and I made the headers. The rest is stuff left over in the garage 3200 stall , C6 and 4:30 gears with a 32 tall slick. Good bracket racer. Forgot its an mid 1970's square tube chassis car with the motor set back behind the front wheels

That should be easy for a factory block. The lower power level will help. I'd bush the lifter bores and send it.

Dave

What has been you're findings when adding the lifter bushings?

wickettoby1 wrote:Dave

What has been you're findings when adding the lifter bushings?

I have not bushed the lifter bores but should have on my 547. Its hard to control oiling when all the oil flows thru the passenger lifter gallery. Its one of those things that should have been done to solve a problem.

wickettoby1 wrote:Dave

What has been you're findings when adding the lifter bushings?

Be sure to open the passenger side oil gallery to .625" diameter BEFORE installing the bushings. The bushings will close-off about a third of that diameter and that gallery is also the main oil gallery to the mains.

Who is tuning it?

Me. Said Row Racing is a one man Band. The 10.0 e.t. I run is with a throttle stop under the gas pedal.( Rules) and the 1050 carl is only opening alittle more than 3/4 open. back to not wanting to spend the money for the Comp ticket and other items. Save bit of racing dollars