Shorten Eagle crank snout

I have this Eagle crankshaft that I'd like to shorten the snout to make room for a blower pulley. I talked to Wes about using a 351w blower hub and pushing it right back but my crank has a machined upset which he said was common. Is there anything you can do with this problem? Weld it up, machine it down? Machine a spacer for it? IDK...
Also, I mic'd the snout and it is slightly smaller then the stock 460 crank.

I don't have anywhere to host a picture anymore so below is a link to a picture of the crank.

Link to what it looks like

jasonf wrote:I have this Eagle crankshaft that I'd like to shorten the snout to make room for a blower pulley. I talked to Wes about using a 351w blower hub and pushing it right back but my crank has a machined upset which he said was common. Is there anything you can do with this problem? Weld it up, machine it down? Machine a spacer for it? IDK...
Also, I mic'd the snout and it is slightly smaller then the stock 460 crank.

I don't have anywhere to host a picture anymore so below is a link to a picture of the crank.

Link to what it looks like

A small block crankshaft snout is 3" long and you can use a small block damper.

Call Adney you and have him get you one and put a Boss snout on it.

jasonf wrote:I have this Eagle crankshaft that I'd like to shorten the snout to make room for a blower pulley. I talked to Wes about using a 351w blower hub and pushing it right back but my crank has a machined upset which he said was common. Is there anything you can do with this problem? Weld it up, machine it down? Machine a spacer for it? IDK...
Also, I mic'd the snout and it is slightly smaller then the stock 460 crank.

I don't have anywhere to host a picture anymore so below is a link to a picture of the crank.

Link to what it looks like

The snout is smaller in the area between the damper and the timing chain gear?

jasonf wrote:I have this Eagle crankshaft that I'd like to shorten the snout to make room for a blower pulley. I talked to Wes about using a 351w blower hub and pushing it right back but my crank has a machined upset which he said was common. Is there anything you can do with this problem? Weld it up, machine it down? Machine a spacer for it? IDK...
Also, I mic'd the snout and it is slightly smaller then the stock 460 crank.

The Eagle crankshafts, both cast and forged, have a crankshaft snout that resembles OEM 460 cast crank snouts which "neck down" in the middle of the snout (ie, the Eagle snout necks down to <1.375" in the area between the timing gear register and the nose of the crank where the balancer sits).  Therefore, you cannot simply shorten the front snout of an Eagle crankshaft and mount an out-of-the-box balancer, or blower hub.  Lunati crankshafts are the same way, with the same necked-down area of the snout.

The way around this is to keep the front snout full length, and just flip the blower hub around so that the pulley end of the bower hub is facing toward the timing cover, thereby locating the blower belt close to the engine and eliminating the leverage it would otherwise induce when at the end of the snout.  (If you flip the blower hub around, you will also need to flip the lower pulley on the blower hub so that it still faces forward.)

The Scat crankshafts have a full 1.375" straight shank snout all the way up to the timing gear register; they do not neck down in the middle like the other aforementioned brand crankshafts.  So it is possible to shorten a Scat snout....or flip the blower hub, or run the blower hub forward, etc.

Lunati also has a straight cut snout.

Lem Evans wrote:

The snout is smaller in the area between the damper and the timing chain gear?

Yes sir it does.

\"Paul Kane wrote:

The way around this is to keep the front snout full length, and just flip the blower hub around so that the pulley end of the bower hub is facing toward the timing cover, thereby locating the blower belt close to the engine and eliminating the leverage it would otherwise induce when at the end of the snout.  (If you flip the blower hub around, you will also need to flip the lower pulley on the blower hub so that it still

I remember reading that in a very old Dave McClain post. Idk what to do with my crank trigger then. Move it to the front?

I kind of figured that would be the answers but I figured people here have way more experience with this sort of thing then I do.

I had to move my rad 2" more then I wanted so I was looking at options to get it back on my next short block.thank you to those that took time out of your day to respond, it's greatly appreciated.

Lem Evans wrote:Lunati also has a straight cut snout.

It's been almost two years since the most recent Lunati crankshaft for me, but those that I've had my hands on definitley did have the undercut in the middle of the snout, not a straight shank.  Even the BBF crankshaft image on their website shows the undercut feature.  Have Lunati updated their design?  If so, then it's a step in the right direction as far as I'm concerned.

Lem Evans wrote:

jasonf wrote:I have this Eagle crankshaft that I'd like to shorten the snout to make room for a blower pulley. I talked to Wes about using a 351w blower hub and pushing it right back but my crank has a machined upset which he said was common. Is there anything you can do with this problem? Weld it up, machine it down? Machine a spacer for it? IDK...
Also, I mic'd the snout and it is slightly smaller then the stock 460 crank.

I don't have anywhere to host a picture anymore so below is a link to a picture of the crank.

Link to what it looks like

The snout is smaller in the area between the damper and the timing chain gear?

That is one reason I mentioned a small block length and damper ... it will center on the larger diameter in front of the timing gear because it uses no spacer.
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I see in the photo that this engine is using a "hatchet" weight so, the crank assembly probably needs to be balanced using an aftermarket small block damper which has a bolt-in weight; it would be close to the weighted 460.

Paul Kane wrote:

Lem Evans wrote:Lunati also has a straight cut snout.

It's been almost two years since the most recent Lunati crankshaft for me, but those that I've had my hands on definitley did have the undercut in the middle of the snout, not a straight shank.  Even the BBF crankshaft image on their website shows the undercut feature.  Have Lunati updated their design?  If so, then it's a step in the right direction as far as I'm concerned.

I told one of the nice men at Lunati a few years ago that the necked down snout was bullshit. I could hardly believe it when it was changed.

rmcomprandy wrote:

That is one reason I mentioned a small block length and damper ... it will center on the larger diameter in front of the timing gear because it uses no spacer.

I have done that many times.

I tried this a few months ago and it never donned on me to cut the crank shorter. I looked at it and was confused on how to make it work. I'll put it on again with the new though process.
Thanks,

rmcomprandy wrote:



I see in the photo that this engine is using a "hatchet" weight so, the crank assembly probably needs to be balanced using an aftermarket small block damper which has a bolt-in weight; it would be close to the weighted 460.

That is my current 460 setup. This will be an all new 545 Eagle crankshaft, internally balanced.

I have a question for the pros. I have a D9 block, Eagle 4340 cranks, Eagle H beam rods and Mahle 4.39" pistons. With that, what does it usually cost to make it a complete shortblock. I'm talking dropping it all off and picking it up finished so balancing, machining, SBF snout and whatever.

2000-2500 including machine work, blue printing and assembly plus parts

Shipping extra