Re: Still overheating - Water Pump bypass hose?

supervel45 June 15th 2023, 10:24 pm

^Well that's good.

On your bungs, the t-stat housing or near the upper radiator hose in the radiator for one, and in the bottom radiator hose or by it's entry in the radiator for the other. Maybe I read your post wrong, just wanted to be sure.

Try SlowRides suggestions on the hood and see how much that helps and bring your fans on at 180F or much lower than where they are at now.

I would bring the A/F ratio up in the 14's at cruise and bump up the timing first thing also.

bigblockfordfxstb June 16th 2023, 7:55 am

supervel45 wrote:^No Doubt about Getting the Heat Out of the Engine Compartment, as well as the rest of that.

It would be nice if he said what the outside temperature was, it gets hot Down Under in the Summer.

Sounds like a New Bigger Battery Might Help some too.

What Cruise Air Fuel Ratio and Timing are you Running Now? What Compression Ratio?

AFR / TIMING need to go over it all once sort out starter problem - comp from calc is 10.5 - Cast heads. could go into the detail of head models and pistons , but dont have at detail to hand ATM

bigblockfordfxstb June 16th 2023, 7:57 am

supervel45 wrote:I take it, it's this CVF?

https://www.cvfracing.com/black-ford-429-460-mechanical-water-pump-high-flow-aluminum/?gclid=CjwKCAjwyqWkBhBMEiwAp2yUFi2R76erEFw6HjUjpq0Zxkl2lFqSHXPuH4FPRTuow4Q4TSn8vTmbTRoC-E4QAvD_BwE

They don't show a shot of the CVF impeller that I saw or say how many blades it has.

When I was looking for spec's and pump ratings, I came across this old thread. It was interesting. Not a lot of GPM ratings at Different RPMS to be found on the various pumps.

https://www.460ford.com/threads/flowkooler-high-flow-pump-better-then-pro-comp.181361/

Here's a nice shot of the Highly Recommended Flow Coolers 16 Blade Impeller.

https://flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/products/1645-1995-1997-ford-big-block-460-water-pump

That CVF might be like the Edelbrock and more suited for higher speed operation? If they threw the backing plate in with their pumps it would sure make life simpler. Have fun with it all.

PS: If anyone comes across this later, watch the part numbers on 429/460. FlowKooler has several models.

https://flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/collections/all/products/1651-1970-1992-ford-429-460-water-pump

Ive send email to flowkooler - but what backing plate do i need for that pump - shame they just dont say on pump details on website... still searching.

bigblockfordfxstb June 16th 2023, 8:04 am

supervel45 wrote:
bigblockfordfxstb wrote:
supervel45 wrote:On the hose temperature you could use a laser thermometer when stationary. They do make Fluke strap on probes that could be run in the vehicle for mobile measurements. That kind of monitoring is used in stationary equipment all the time as well as engineering and Lab environments. For what your doing I would shoot for lowest operating temperature, and not get too hung up on it.

Your Email from the above post, Said, styled after an Edelbrock Unit. There have been a lot of people come through these forums and switch to the FlowKooler pumps and solve problems. Randy mentioned it at the beginning of this thread, and I did not Know the CVF Pump you have was like that. You can keep playing with it, and maybe you will make some headway on lowering you slow speed temps but it sure sounds like the pump style to me at this point.

With all that said it also sounds like you have a charging and or undersized/weak battery issue also. The alternator voltages will usually drop a little in high heat conditions from my experience, that's why I said to check it hot and cold with the fans both on and off.

Electric motors also start going bad all the time and drawing higher current too. That's why we always logged amp draws on inspection, to anticipate potential upcoming problems or current ones.

Morning here from Oz... why do you think anything to do with battery or charging is an issue? just curious was it something I mentioned ? I'll check this out I have multimeter for cold and clamp DC style meter also to see...

I do have a Lazer temp monitor, but thinking I have a bung near to rad outlet and possibly a spare temp place for sensor near thermostat and could buy 2 x cheap gauges to looking at this...

as for water pump, I'll see if CVF come back with and possibly look to buy that pump and backing plate, quite a bit of work to remove all this as car is tight but never trusted driving the car on warm or busy day with traffic and it's almost got to the point of pulling the engine and going a different direction. Even thou I have seen other conversations same type of car no problems all day driving from speaking with them.....

_______________________________________________________________________________________

You said in your first post, the fans slowed down due to battery drain. I don't know if you got that fixed but, if they slow down it means less airflow and higher temperature.

You can try the gauges and a bung if it's not too much trouble. It may guide you some on the water system changes that you may make. It's not an end all be all though and without a remotely controlled water
valve/themostat that you could control and look for a few degree's with, it's kinda overkill.

If the Hi Flow thermostat passes the temp. test give it a try. Try no stat and see if it helps if the thermostat does not help.

You can play with the engine tune also. I think I would do that first.

I know it's hard and expensive to get the parts over there, if they come from across the Pond, so I would start with the easiest and cheapist things before going after the pump.

If the CVF pump is a Clone of the Edelbrock, I would just order their backing plate and gaskets if they still offer them, if you wanted to keep that pump.

As much work as it is to replace, Myself, I would just buy the FlowKooler Pump and be done with it.

Sounds like you have had a real bad time of it, if the #unts put the head gaskets on backwards out the gate.

I hope you can make some progress without too much more trouble/expense.

110% happy to get it fixed and looking to how to source the pump if I knew that would have resolved it would not have spent $$$$ on custom rads with big fans -etc etc etc-

Need to confirm the right backing plate then confirm the pump can replace the pump i have with pulleys... and will be happy to do the work myself to do the job...

Anyways thanks again for help

rmcomprandy June 16th 2023, 9:05 am

bigblockfordfxstb wrote:
supervel45 wrote:
bigblockfordfxstb wrote:
supervel45 wrote:On the hose temperature you could use a laser thermometer when stationary. They do make Fluke strap on probes that could be run in the vehicle for mobile measurements. That kind of monitoring is used in stationary equipment all the time as well as engineering and Lab environments. For what your doing I would shoot for lowest operating temperature, and not get too hung up on it.

Your Email from the above post, Said, styled after an Edelbrock Unit. There have been a lot of people come through these forums and switch to the FlowKooler pumps and solve problems. Randy mentioned it at the beginning of this thread, and I did not Know the CVF Pump you have was like that. You can keep playing with it, and maybe you will make some headway on lowering you slow speed temps but it sure sounds like the pump style to me at this point.

With all that said it also sounds like you have a charging and or undersized/weak battery issue also. The alternator voltages will usually drop a little in high heat conditions from my experience, that's why I said to check it hot and cold with the fans both on and off.

Electric motors also start going bad all the time and drawing higher current too. That's why we always logged amp draws on inspection, to anticipate potential upcoming problems or current ones.

Morning here from Oz... why do you think anything to do with battery or charging is an issue? just curious was it something I mentioned ? I'll check this out I have multimeter for cold and clamp DC style meter also to see...

I do have a Lazer temp monitor, but thinking I have a bung near to rad outlet and possibly a spare temp place for sensor near thermostat and could buy 2 x cheap gauges to looking at this...

as for water pump, I'll see if CVF come back with and possibly look to buy that pump and backing plate, quite a bit of work to remove all this as car is tight but never trusted driving the car on warm or busy day with traffic and it's almost got to the point of pulling the engine and going a different direction. Even thou I have seen other conversations same type of car no problems all day driving from speaking with them.....

_______________________________________________________________________________________

You said in your first post, the fans slowed down due to battery drain. I don't know if you got that fixed but, if they slow down it means less airflow and higher temperature.

You can try the gauges and a bung if it's not too much trouble. It may guide you some on the water system changes that you may make. It's not an end all be all though and without a remotely controlled water
valve/themostat that you could control and look for a few degree's with, it's kinda overkill.

If the Hi Flow thermostat passes the temp. test give it a try. Try no stat and see if it helps if the thermostat does not help.

You can play with the engine tune also. I think I would do that first.

I know it's hard and expensive to get the parts over there, if they come from across the Pond, so I would start with the easiest and cheapist things before going after the pump.

If the CVF pump is a Clone of the Edelbrock, I would just order their backing plate and gaskets if they still offer them, if you wanted to keep that pump.

As much work as it is to replace, Myself, I would just buy the FlowKooler Pump and be done with it.

Sounds like you have had a real bad time of it, if the #unts put the head gaskets on backwards out the gate.

I hope you can make some progress without too much more trouble/expense.

110% happy to get it fixed and looking to how to source the pump if I knew that would have resolved it would not have spent $$$$ on custom rads with big fans -etc etc etc-

Need to confirm the right backing plate then confirm the pump can replace the pump i have with pulleys... and will be happy to do the work myself to do the job...

Anyways thanks again for help

FlowKooler is an O.E.M. pump housing with their impeller installed with minimal clearances.
You can even get them through Summit if need be.

supervel45 June 16th 2023, 6:42 pm

bigblockfordfxstb wrote:
supervel45 wrote:^No Doubt about Getting the Heat Out of the Engine Compartment, as well as the rest of that.

It would be nice if he said what the outside temperature was, it gets hot Down Under in the Summer.

Sounds like a New Bigger Battery Might Help some too.

What Cruise Air Fuel Ratio and Timing are you Running Now? What Compression Ratio?

AFR / TIMING need to go over it all once sort out starter problem - comp from calc is 10.5 - Cast heads. could go into the detail of head models and pistons , but dont have at detail to hand ATM

______________________________________________________________________________________

I don't know if this will work with your system or not. You have more compression then I "assumed" so be careful with the timing, especially in the heat.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cei-102001?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjwkLCkBhA9EiwAka9QRlTEHpK0Pqz-Etje1aynCM1GCeQkvJhKdoWcdR2a8udGvaI2zTd3xxoCbMwQAvD_BwE

^This is a stand alone knock gauge. There are other options. I don't know about all the various systems but, you can research them if you like, it was one of the big plus's of OEM EFI in my opinion.

bigblockfordfxstb June 16th 2023, 7:59 pm

bigblockfordfxstb wrote:Found an OLD email before I ordered the CVF KIT----- they did supply the backing plate.....

From CVF
All hardware will come with the brackets for mounting the accessories. The water pump will come with backing plate and gasket but not the mounting bolts.

Let me know if there is anything else that I can help with.

Support Team

Got a response back from CVF possibly not sure what plate they supplied to me years ago but

CVF

"Our pump plate does have the recess to clear the pilot on the back of the pump.
Clearance between the pump plate and the backing plate is closer to .060 but that is because the pump shaft sticks out the back.
The pump impeller has 7 blades."

Ive asked if they have like dimensions / details as want to order the FlowKooler, but need to make sure all my pulleys fit / alignment still need to get info on the FlowKooler what backing plate...

bigblockfordfxstb June 16th 2023, 8:00 pm

rmcomprandy wrote:
bigblockfordfxstb wrote:
supervel45 wrote:
bigblockfordfxstb wrote:
supervel45 wrote:On the hose temperature you could use a laser thermometer when stationary. They do make Fluke strap on probes that could be run in the vehicle for mobile measurements. That kind of monitoring is used in stationary equipment all the time as well as engineering and Lab environments. For what your doing I would shoot for lowest operating temperature, and not get too hung up on it.

Your Email from the above post, Said, styled after an Edelbrock Unit. There have been a lot of people come through these forums and switch to the FlowKooler pumps and solve problems. Randy mentioned it at the beginning of this thread, and I did not Know the CVF Pump you have was like that. You can keep playing with it, and maybe you will make some headway on lowering you slow speed temps but it sure sounds like the pump style to me at this point.

With all that said it also sounds like you have a charging and or undersized/weak battery issue also. The alternator voltages will usually drop a little in high heat conditions from my experience, that's why I said to check it hot and cold with the fans both on and off.

Electric motors also start going bad all the time and drawing higher current too. That's why we always logged amp draws on inspection, to anticipate potential upcoming problems or current ones.

Morning here from Oz... why do you think anything to do with battery or charging is an issue? just curious was it something I mentioned ? I'll check this out I have multimeter for cold and clamp DC style meter also to see...

I do have a Lazer temp monitor, but thinking I have a bung near to rad outlet and possibly a spare temp place for sensor near thermostat and could buy 2 x cheap gauges to looking at this...

as for water pump, I'll see if CVF come back with and possibly look to buy that pump and backing plate, quite a bit of work to remove all this as car is tight but never trusted driving the car on warm or busy day with traffic and it's almost got to the point of pulling the engine and going a different direction. Even thou I have seen other conversations same type of car no problems all day driving from speaking with them.....

_______________________________________________________________________________________

You said in your first post, the fans slowed down due to battery drain. I don't know if you got that fixed but, if they slow down it means less airflow and higher temperature.

You can try the gauges and a bung if it's not too much trouble. It may guide you some on the water system changes that you may make. It's not an end all be all though and without a remotely controlled water
valve/themostat that you could control and look for a few degree's with, it's kinda overkill.

If the Hi Flow thermostat passes the temp. test give it a try. Try no stat and see if it helps if the thermostat does not help.

You can play with the engine tune also. I think I would do that first.

I know it's hard and expensive to get the parts over there, if they come from across the Pond, so I would start with the easiest and cheapist things before going after the pump.

If the CVF pump is a Clone of the Edelbrock, I would just order their backing plate and gaskets if they still offer them, if you wanted to keep that pump.

As much work as it is to replace, Myself, I would just buy the FlowKooler Pump and be done with it.

Sounds like you have had a real bad time of it, if the #unts put the head gaskets on backwards out the gate.

I hope you can make some progress without too much more trouble/expense.

110% happy to get it fixed and looking to how to source the pump if I knew that would have resolved it would not have spent $$$$ on custom rads with big fans -etc etc etc-

Need to confirm the right backing plate then confirm the pump can replace the pump i have with pulleys... and will be happy to do the work myself to do the job...

Anyways thanks again for help

FlowKooler is an O.E.M. pump housing with their impeller installed with minimal clearances.
You can even get them through Summit if need be.

How about backing place ? I have filled the online form question out, so will see if FlowKooler reply---- and yes summit has it, but freight is a killer atm

supervel45 June 16th 2023, 8:23 pm

I am not sure on the backing plate. I see they come with 3 gaskets, so you can set the pump impeller Depth Though.

Hopefully FlowKooler gets back with you.

https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Flow-Kooler-Water-Pump-429_460/productinfo/16320/

^ That is a model 16320 in the link above and claimed to be a 6 blade model. I don't know if they still offer that one. The 16 Blade comes with 3 gaskets also. They Don't recommend a flat or specific plate so I would lean to it being designed for the stock style Ford recessed plate, and setting the impeller depth with the gaskets. Find out for sure before you order though.

I looked for their instruction sheet, for an online PDF and could not find it.

bigblockfordfxstb June 16th 2023, 8:25 pm

supervel45 wrote:I am not sure on the backing plate. I see they come with 3 gaskets, so you can set the pump impeller Depth Though.

Hopefully FlowKooler gets back with.

https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Flow-Kooler-Water-Pump-429_460/productinfo/16320/

Interesting - I just called a local store here who has one on the shelf and no backing plate and only 1 gasket in the box... who knows.... lets see if they reply

supervel45 June 16th 2023, 8:58 pm

Check my last post I added some to it. Maybe the parts store can send you the instructions or if it's close you can check them out, or they if they are slow they can read them to you.

The parts store probably ran out of gaskets, and stole them from the water pump, since some of the gasket kit's are FUBAR and don't include all the ones you need on these engines sometimes.

bigblockfordfxstb June 19th 2023, 8:20 pm

Just got off the phone to FlowKooler and they said just use your existing backing plate. (comes with 2 x gaskets) so guess want to use the thin gasket of possible.....

now just need to source pump.

Rob

rmcomprandy June 20th 2023, 10:24 am

bigblockfordfxstb wrote:Just got off the phone to FlowKooler and they said just use your existing backing plate. (comes with 2 x gaskets) so guess want to use the thin gasket of possible.....

now just need to source pump.

Rob

If you just got off the phone with FlowKooler ... they do sell direct and through Summit, also.
They can also rebuild your stock pump to their specs using their impeller..

supervel45 June 20th 2023, 10:54 pm

bigblockfordfxstb wrote:Just got off the phone to FlowKooler and they said just use your existing backing plate. (comes with 2 x gaskets) so guess want to use the thin gasket of possible.....

now just need to source pump.

Rob

I posted this on page 1. You may want to read it again, closely.

https://www.460ford.com/threads/water-pump-back-plate-gaskets.143812/

Can you get your hands on a stock plate to compare? Or at least have on hand when you start the job.

I have a stock one I can measure but, not an Edelbrock or a Clone.

Summit has the SVO/FRPP's plate but I don't have the measurements of it. It is Different From the Edelbrock apparantly and the gaskets are off. I don't know "if or "what" the difference of that (FRPP) plate is from a OEM.

On the Gasket depth, you would think the FlowKooler Instruction sheet would give a preferred Clearance Depth?

I just want to make sure you get it right, the First Time.

jasonf June 20th 2023, 11:45 pm

Out of curiosity, do you have a spring in the lower radiator hose?

bigblockfordfxstb June 20th 2023, 11:47 pm

jasonf wrote:Out of curiosity, do you have a spring in the lower radiator hose?

Yes new host and spring inside, but good one to forget!

bigblockfordfxstb June 20th 2023, 11:50 pm

supervel45 wrote:
bigblockfordfxstb wrote:Just got off the phone to FlowKooler and they said just use your existing backing plate. (comes with 2 x gaskets) so guess want to use the thin gasket of possible.....

now just need to source pump.

Rob

I posted this on page 1. You may want to read it again, closely.

https://www.460ford.com/threads/water-pump-back-plate-gaskets.143812/

Can you get your hands on a stock plate to compare? Or at least have on hand when you start the job.

I have a stock one I can measure but, not an Edelbrock or a Clone.

Summit has the SVO/FRPP's plate but I don't have the measurements of it. It is Different From the Edelbrock apparantly and the gaskets are off. I don't know "if or "what" the difference of that (FRPP) plate is from a OEM.

On the Gasket depth, you would think the FlowKooler Instruction sheet would give a preferred Clearance Depth?

I just want to make sure you get it right, the First Time.

thanks for good followup email.... I actually got the pump yesterday ( someone here in Oz had one on the shelf ) and will do a better reply once on computer , but what's odd when I spoke with them on the phone they said two different gasket thickness, opened the box and it had two gaskets one that goes behind the plate and the one for between the pump and plate.... different to what I was expecting....

Still overheating - Water Pump bypass hose? - Page 2 Pxl_2011

Still overheating - Water Pump bypass hose? - Page 2 Pxl_2010

bigblockfordfxstb June 21st 2023, 2:16 am

bigblockfordfxstb wrote:
supervel45 wrote:
bigblockfordfxstb wrote:Just got off the phone to FlowKooler and they said just use your existing backing plate. (comes with 2 x gaskets) so guess want to use the thin gasket of possible.....

now just need to source pump.

Rob

I posted this on page 1. You may want to read it again, closely.

https://www.460ford.com/threads/water-pump-back-plate-gaskets.143812/

Can you get your hands on a stock plate to compare? Or at least have on hand when you start the job.

I have a stock one I can measure but, not an Edelbrock or a Clone.

Summit has the SVO/FRPP's plate but I don't have the measurements of it. It is Different From the Edelbrock apparantly and the gaskets are off. I don't know "if or "what" the difference of that (FRPP) plate is from a OEM.

On the Gasket depth, you would think the FlowKooler Instruction sheet would give a preferred Clearance Depth?

I just want to make sure you get it right, the First Time.

thanks for good followup email.... I actually got the pump yesterday ( someone here in Oz had one on the shelf ) and will do a better reply once on computer , but what's odd when I spoke with them on the phone they said two different gasket thickness, opened the box and it had two gaskets one that goes behind the plate and the one for between the pump and plate.... different to what I was expecting....

Just re-read that link you shared, so I do t have another plate and it may be week or longer if I then tackle the water pump removal to see what that plate is I have. The response from CVF was they didn't know back then what plate they supplied with I bought the kit, but confirmed they supply it now ( I have an email from them saying it comes with it) who knows if it's stock or something odd until I remove it.

I can order a backing plate from US Amazon, might be cheaper than buy it locally if once removed and it's a no go..."Ford Racing M-8501-460BP Water Pump Backing Plate" or is this not what I need either if it some racing version??

bigblockfordfxstb June 21st 2023, 2:30 am

bigblockfordfxstb wrote:
supervel45 wrote:
bigblockfordfxstb wrote:Just got off the phone to FlowKooler and they said just use your existing backing plate. (comes with 2 x gaskets) so guess want to use the thin gasket of possible.....

now just need to source pump.

Rob

I posted this on page 1. You may want to read it again, closely.

https://www.460ford.com/threads/water-pump-back-plate-gaskets.143812/

Can you get your hands on a stock plate to compare? Or at least have on hand when you start the job.

I have a stock one I can measure but, not an Edelbrock or a Clone.

Summit has the SVO/FRPP's plate but I don't have the measurements of it. It is Different From the Edelbrock apparantly and the gaskets are off. I don't know "if or "what" the difference of that (FRPP) plate is from a OEM.

On the Gasket depth, you would think the FlowKooler Instruction sheet would give a preferred Clearance Depth?

I just want to make sure you get it right, the First Time.

thanks for good followup email.... I actually got the pump yesterday ( someone here in Oz had one on the shelf ) and will do a better reply once on computer , but what's odd when I spoke with them on the phone they said two different gasket thickness, opened the box and it had two gaskets one that goes behind the plate and the one for between the pump and plate.... different to what I was expecting....

if my brain serves me right it's from memory I think the plate looked like the item on summit "Ford Performance Parts Water Pump Backing Plates M-8501-460BP"

rmcomprandy June 21st 2023, 12:39 pm

bigblockfordfxstb wrote:

if my brain serves me right it's from memory I think the plate looked like the item on summit "Ford Performance Parts Water Pump Backing Plates M-8501-460BP"

There are 3 plates available ... one is flat with a bump in the center for pump shaft clearance; the others both have slight indentations and the difference is the diameter of that indentation. Stock plate indentation is larger than the Edelbrock type plate.

All three should work with a FlowKooler pump using that large diameter impeller but, only the small one or flat one will work well with an Edelbrock or Ford Racing pump. Because they won't cavitate, those pumps have higher flow only at high RPM

RayDav June 21st 2023, 8:09 pm

The link below is an actual high flow thermostat. It will give you the equivalent of a 3/4 inch round tube.

But to determine if a different thermostat will make any difference, start with the highest possible flow; no stat. I have been running no stat for a year. The only downside is slow warm up in snow. But I live in the desert.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/472BoTDiFZ9XrFKW8

bigblockfordfxstb June 21st 2023, 8:31 pm

RayDav wrote:The link below is an actual high flow thermostat. It will give you the equivalent of a 3/4 inch round tube.

But to determine if a different thermostat will make any difference, start with the highest possible flow; no stat. I have been running no stat for a year. The only downside is slow warm up in snow. But I live in the desert.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/472BoTDiFZ9XrFKW8

thanks for info, I have a high flow item now, and I had tried before without thermostant and from memory the problem was the same, just bought a new pump and waiting to more details in plate is my next option

supervel45 June 21st 2023, 9:22 pm

Here is a picture of a Ford OEM on with a Ford Part number stamp. Maybe it will help with your comparisons.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144875723923?epid=1425042606&hash=item21bb441c93:g:tjEAAOSw9NBaenZL&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8GXBDE76ZbxI4XivaWrgYgeCfhl03%2BEpQSBekmrwCZqrPK2aYncTr6uOgGJ9Bu%2BehtHXG8E2M%2BV%2BI5qkLzaw2NIS5H52gp1O93W5f9kHGqxhyZpY5LS9VNDTaNE6sYUwzpDE8lGW%2FYw1Bkkci9jLnFebF1kNYcer%2BfA2s7pXykmnZ0rwQjkPjM2mRhNDi6rkgNeHRkqpaZ9KuOGTkf5%2B9cMZhSale%2BTvPQGXzdqLO4cNpxceZpH7MHxCpcAGv%2FzIPljFv1LZoLXpKJW%2FVJtHDiRmXzC5VUvGPRBAsFShIcERECN7OEn7yVw4sPNMEFBJPg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6yzgoucYg

Here are some good pics of the FRPP N-8501-460BP. Looks very Close to the same.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/256102968542?hash=item3ba0ed2cde:g:flEAAOSwpp5kgP7p&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAABAOGgzzq4v9UQ%2BxAho9ehOiRqJ0eosJ8%2BpDjZZrxGbVatHf8jnDYsYTZOJfc6UNWYFqfNsKcK3ZkxcpcvPv1oUv5udK3KIEMGHOzg%2FdN%2Fw7WswfGUbXhTyRpcbbW1Q5%2Bw8bCFxU%2BZn8oJwCJhf14jUuieWz2ixSFzGJm5%2B3OgftcWurFu85KMwin5gW3KwNq%2BA%2F7n61qgPb2SuSfgiXGk453IxiSxT4wrEZDrAIuDsZMevdvCjXGH1kRkkHDfd4sGbJQl5xzCnYuAuQQvbzzT2NpX4XZaq5jbUbv%2FwmDRCRMjCFgsJ8B4wKsRJ9jRkmYvzITCnmoGZ3T%2Bv0F0oWnF4Og%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR57fm4ycYg

bigblockfordfxstb June 22nd 2023, 12:11 am

rmcomprandy wrote:
bigblockfordfxstb wrote:

if my brain serves me right it's from memory I think the plate looked like the item on summit "Ford Performance Parts Water Pump Backing Plates M-8501-460BP"

There are 3 plates available ... one is flat with a bump in the center for pump shaft clearance; the others both have slight indentations and the difference is the diameter of that indentation. Stock plate indentation is larger than the Edelbrock type plate.

All three should work with a FlowKooler pump using that large diameter impeller but, only the small one or flat one will work well with an Edelbrock or Ford Racing pump. Because they won't cavitate, those pumps have higher flow only at high RPM

The plates I can see on summit look to be the flat type for possibly electric pumps the that Ford pressed unit.
anyway
Called Flowkooler this morning and wanted to ask about the gaskets in box v what I had been told about them being the same and different thickness.
Also about backing plate , if they have a preference and or clearances I should be looking for... they said going to call me back, but that didn't happen.. let's see tomorrow.

in the meantime I took some measurements and pics

Still overheating - Water Pump bypass hose? - Page 2 Pump_d10

supervel45 June 22nd 2023, 3:14 am

My Stock Ford OEM Plate Cavity Depth Measured .125".

The Diameter at the Bottom of the Tapered Cavity is 4.955", as close as I could measure.

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