Cristine's Nightmare

Toward the Finish and Paint Prep.





The First Prep Coat was Semi Gloss High Temp. Engine Black. I Wanted to See What I Had, Before I Broke Out The 16+ Dollar a 8 Once Can of Spruce Green Dupli-Color Car Paint.

Straighter but, Still Tweaked a Little End to End. A Really Dedicated Individual Putting it on a Nicer Truck Could Also Address That with a Little Ingenuity.

I Say it Came Out Pretty Fair, All Things Considered and About an Hour to Hour and a Half of Pounding.

Finally On The Truck. Two Big High Strenght Bolts and One Short Broken Stud for Attachment and Quick rRemovell if Weight Savings is Desired.





I Think It Looked Better Without The Bumper Because It Showed Off The Snazy Differential but, It is Nice To Have Some Rear End Protection on These Old Trucks as Tailgates, Tailgate Aluminum Trim Pieces, and Beds are Getting Harder to Come By and More EXPENSIVE...

I am Trying To Come Up With Something To Break The Factory OEM Drab.

A Little CoonAss Texas RedNeck Ingunuity(SpLoL) for The Pesky Tweaked Bumper Molding Problems.




I Considered One of These Two? They Don't Quiet Fit What I Have in Mind With The Light Silverish Paint Scheme Though.

Need Something Black, Red, Blue and White.

Any Ideas

Speed Corporate Logo Stickers are Fine.

Kinda Wanted Something Not Too Flashy and Different That is Old School



I am Considering Two Toning The Bumper with a Black or Very Dark Grey Across The Center on the Flat Middle Fold, Where the OEM Bumper Pads Usually Go.

We'll See  

I Played with That Throw Away Marine {Boat} 6.6 Fuel Tank Again Saturday as This "Drunk Whore" is Very Thirsty and Less Then 2 Gallons was Not Getting It.

The First Temporary Fuel Pickup by The Blue Flashlight was a 3/8" Copper Tube Shoved Over The Aluminum Block, With About a 3/16" Hole Right Angle Feed Tube. It was Meant Just to Fire The Engine Off and Get it Running.

^ It Performed That Duty Quite Well Until The Old Carter Electric Fuel Pump Gave Up the Ghost and Locked Up.

A Second Used Throw Away (Was Used as a Diesel Up Pump) Carter Electric Failed to Self Prime so The Kitty Litter Bucket Under the Hood for Now with the 37GPH Test Pump LoL for Now.  

Need a Fuel Cell or Convert the OEM Rear Tank to Sump. For The Engine and Street Driving for Any Kind of Range.

Planning a 130 GPH Holley Mechanical Fuel Pump for The Engine.

It Has What Appears To Be a Factory Block-Off Plate Now. These Trucks Came With Two (2) Intank Electric Fuel Pumps and a Holley 4 Barrel 600Cfm VS {4180 Type} Carburetor OEM. Some "May Have also Come with a Mechanical Engine Fuel Pump Plus Electric in Tank Pumps. Not Really Sure What Mother Ford Had all going on in The Mid 1980's { To 1988 } Right Before Truck EFI on the 3/4 Ton and Up Rigs?

^ Already Have One (1) Holley 130 GPH Mechanical Pump, From The 429 as Well as a Diaphram Replacement Kit. Doubt It Needs One Either.

A 140 GPH Electric for The Nitrous on a Seperate Cell For Race Gas. Don't Really Need That for a 150HP Shot Though. Never Have in the Past Anyway.

Here's a Few Pictures of the "Junk" and The Temp. Revamped 3/8" Copper Tubing Pickup and Line.

The Fuel Line Will Be 1/2" Copper Tubing on The Permanent Deal For Both.





Also Have Some Chrome Lakewood's on The Way, Until I Can Make or Locate Something Better in The Traction Department.

The Detroit Locker Helped Quite Quite Quite A Bit When I Got To Some Fresh Rubber on the Drives Side Tire.  

supervel45 wrote:Finally On The Truck. Two Big High Strenght Bolts and One Short Broken Stud for Attachment and Quick rRemovell if Weight Savings is Desired.





I Think It Looked Better Without The Bumper Because It Showed Off The Snazy Differential but, It is Nice To Have Some Rear End Protection on These Old Trucks as Tailgates, Tailgate Aluminum Trim Pieces, and Beds are Getting Harder to Come By and More EXPENSIVE...  

I Did Go Ahead and Two Tone The Bumper.

I Added Dupli-Color "Cast Coat Iron" Engine Enamal.

I Located A Few Three (3) Nice Stickers One of Which or Maybe Two (2) are Pretty Vintage. I.E. The Holman and Moody and The Holley Re-Pro Float Bowl Decal.





The Weather is Clearing/Warming Up and That's Very Nice.

Hopefully I will get my Help over Soon and get the New/Old 2,800 Torque Convertor put in before or during the Weekend.

Then It's off to Traction Bars and The Fuel System, When the Fund's Catch back Up.

For You Guys Around the H-Town Area I may be getting My Joy Juice Deal Back Up and Pumping/Freezing Again, Hopefully.

On The Bumper Pictures To See The Two (2) Colors, As They are So Close, You Almost Have To See It In Person To See The Difference. They Are There Though.

supervel45 wrote:The Kin Folk's Said "Super You Should Get Rid of Those Old Trucks, Nobody Want's Them Anymore or The Go Fast Parts". And That "No Good for Nothing Sports Car" Too.

Super Say's, "Sure Thing, I will Get Right On It"---"Can I Mind Your Business For You?"

Anyway's Found This "Junk" Buried Around "Somewhere" Near.





I Thought I Lost It when I Looked in what I thought was it's spot. Then I remembered It's 2,200 RPM Little Brother went in another Truck, when I Looked in the other Convertor Stash Place and Found a Third "Stock" C6 Convertor. Only One Other Place it May Have Gone, Bingo.

Might Do a U-Joint or Two While It's Apart. No Carrier Bearing on This Long Bed so I Guess That is One Less U- Joint to Replace is a Good Thing.

The Convertor is a Robert Brittains, of Brittians Parts Service in H-Town {Berry Rd.}. I have Had it about 3 Decades and Put Countless Bottle's of Nitrous To It, in a 5k Pound 429 Truck. No Problems Yet.

The Convertor is a 12" with Brazed Fins. It Stalled at 2,800 Behind the Low Compression Mild 429 with 3.5 Gears.

The Head Gaskets I Found in the So Called "Junk Pile" are FelPro 8265 PT-1. They Show 429/460 on The Label.

I Guess According to "Everybody" I Should Just Throw it All Out for Garbage Pickup!!!  

We Gonna Have To Break Out Some Texas Top for This Job. As In ZZTOP.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGW4qMUysAQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nNC-BtsLFdQ

ROCK ON Gentleman

Part II: The 2,800 Stall is in. Well The Transmision and Torque Convertor are Bolted Up Anyway. What a Pain in the Ass.

Cleaning and Painting Drive Shaft, Crossmember, Bolts and other Parts Now to Complete the Job.

Another 4 Hour Deal Turning into a 3-4 day Project, as Always.

Upside is Taking Your Time Usually Equals a Nicer Finished Product, hopefully.

Yep cleaning things up takes the longest usually. Like building a engine cleaning takes as long as building it. When I put the Crown Vic front end under my 69 it took longer to clean up frame rails and getting it ready just to install it. But after it was finished it was all worth it. Plus now if I need to remove the Crown Vic front end I can have it out from under the front end in less than a hour

Coming Along Nicely.

Need To Find a Spicoli (Fast Times) Checkerboard Sticker to Wrap around the Ends of The Driveshaft.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8OGkMkPFPg

69F100 wrote:Yep cleaning things up takes the longest usually. Like building a engine cleaning takes as long as building it. When I put the Crown Vic front end under my 69 it took longer to clean up frame rails and getting it ready just to install it. But after it was finished it was all worth it. Plus now if I need to remove the Crown Vic front end I can have it out from under the front end in less than a hour

Yes Sir! And Very Nice Going on The Crown Vic Front End on The 1969.

I Love The Electric Blue Paint on It Also.

I Wish The Dark Metalic Blue OEM Paint on My 1995 was That Sexy.

What Color Code is Your Truck, In Case I Repaint My 1995 or Even Christine?

Oh PS: I Realy Enjoy Cleaning and Painting Parts, Especially at Night When it is Quiet and Peaceful. The Solitude and Traiquilty(Sp) Out in The Semi-Country is Off the Charts, a Small Camp/Type Fire Makes it Even Better to Unwind.

I am Going To Burn These Stickers on The Driveshaft for Starters, Because I Have Them, Plus Dual Quads Need Dual Holley Stickers After All.



And Like I Said, For The Hot Rodders and Racer's Around H-Town West I am Opening The Joy Juice Station Back Up. It's a Speed Drug and Very Addictive, Gottta Sell Some to Feed The Nasty Habbit Don'tYaKnow.




It's Between Tw0(2) Gas Suppliers Now, I will See if The Closer One Will Meet or Beat The Far One.

Not Likely and The Truck Gas for Pickup would Off Set the Saving's Likely Anyway.

Will Find Out Next Week Though

Don't Do Drugs Kids and Remember Speed Kills!!!

Seems Like Somewhat of an Improvement. Nothing Major but, Every Little Bit Helps.

The Differential, Intake/Carburetors/AirCleaner and Driveshaft are about the Best Looking Parts of The Truck, in my Opinion. That's Fine By Me. Did Not Want The Bling on This One for Reasons

Slapper Bars and Fuel System Next.

Then Maybe Headers and Exhaust. Then Again After Looking at The Condition of the Exhaust Bolts, That May wait until the Good Engine.

supervel45 wrote:The Cheap Easy Way.

Start with This Kit.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/253019123208?hash=item3ae91d6e08:g:Lu0AAOSwOFddQPZr&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAABIK4OY49mG4jznOqXsdF%2B41S7q34rQ1PRWNbWg%2BQssNsc4mGck3cgvZ149jjzSDJDl%2FkeUL8%2Fhoy5Qq8omiYyhoFepReOcVWYE%2Fea3bQoK%2FfbOVqDRe58Q9RAZBcN8TtBmwK16tiHMcuiMSJnHBi4a%2B0VGmyCEU8aCH%2FpOHCVDvvXIskkJjDEwVATEwRpilRHRTZ7ktWpLsfvCZnUmHDJTZqMMoU0nnEFrEVj3YEgqf%2FZjWeR47VfmR0S%2BE6kyk9YvWaO9eRdh63XaiLu2YUesNtsMzxKKe8kzEiRsv6DCeOGoyCFdgdO0YLAdOYvDwnW3cOhvzZJ5nL%2FM0BKo6I1uDNpwjkkAXCLbXUzdh7lCms82nP2Y0Dj3EnO%2BLO5Op8otA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5Tc6NXsYg

Go to the Local Hardware Store and Buy a 2 to 3 Buck 1/4" Collar with an Allen Head Set Screw.

Move the Front Carburetor Linkage Connection to the Lower Hole and Loose the Aluminum Spacer that Usually goes in the Large Top Hole. You can Shim the Slack with washers if you Like.

Put 1/4 Collar in Front of Linkage Attachment Arm the Distance you would Like before it will Open the Throttle on the Secondary Front Carburetor. Lock the Set Screw.

Check Operation and for Binding. Done.

V Note on the First Picture Below, The Linkage Arm is Still in The Upper Hole with The Collar Set For Progressive. You Will NOT GET Full Throttle on the Secondary Carburetor because of The Geometory.

You Can Slide the Collar All the way Back to the Linkage Arm Though, and Not Use The Set Screw That Goes in it, {Linkage Arm} That Comes in The Kit.   The Catch With it is if Someting Binds the Carburetor, the Return Spring will NOT Pull it Closed, Just Like When it is Setup For Progressive.  













For The Price of These Kits, I Believe it is the Most Bang for the Buck Out There.

I Have Used The Edelbrock Kit on my Last Dual Quad Setup. It was Nice Also but, The Price Back Then was 27 or so Bucks. They are Much Higher Now I Believe and Don't Do Anything More than This Kit does that I can See.

Going to Turn the Wick up a Tad.

A Little More Cfm on The Secondary Carburetor With a Lighter Vacuum Pod Spring (Silver) and a Quick Change Spring Top.

With The Black Vacuum Pod Springs I Have Now, I Would Doubt They are Opening to 800Cfm Combined?

I Have Not Done The Paper Clip on The Pod Rod Trick, I Will Though in Due Time.

I Have Another Quick Change on My 780VS 3310-1 4150 Also. Not Going to Rob Peter to Pay Paul as I Have had the 780VS Since the 80's.

I will Pick Up a New or Used One on Fleebay (Only Need a Top) for The Primary Carburetor.

Since These Have The Boss's for The Vacuum Balance Tubes, I Will Go Ahead and Plum Them Also.

^ I Doubt They Do Much But, They Sure Look Cool, Like The FE 427 2x4 Deal.




Yes I Know About The QFT Adjustable Pod, Both the Top Only Cheapie and The Fancy Anodized Red Aluminum one, (Had one of the fancy ones new in the package and sold it off) I am going Old School on This Truck to See What I can Get with Mostly Vintage Parts on a Budget Build.

If You See This Stuck On It With a Mechanical Tachometer and Run With a MSD-6AL Box, You will Know I Have Gone Native

The Secondary Carburetor Holley Quick Change (Original First Addition With Flat Metal Cover) is On and Tested in A Stationary Position in Park with No Load.

The Front Secondary Carburetor Achieved Full Opening of It's Secondary's with a Silver or Plain Spring.

^ I ASS/Ume It's a Plain Spring as There was No Paint on It. I will Have To Double Check It Against Another Silver Spring in My Spring Kit To Be Sure. Sometimes The Paint Comes Off of The Spring After Many Years and It's Difficult To Tell Without a Known Spring To Compare It To.





I Had A Video Of It Running but, I did not shut off the phone soon enough and it won't load. I will Try and do a shorter one.

No Dice on The Video Guys. Made an 8 Second One and It would Not Load.

I Probably Need Another App. for That I Guess. Maybe I will get my Son to Set Me Up There To, and See How Much Trouble I can Get In on The WWW!

PS: Did A Couple of Dry Hops with the Lighter Spring in The Front Carburetor, and It Did Hit Noticicbly Harder!

About 2 Decades Ago. Not Just These Two (2) A Whole Box Full With 1,2 and 3 Gauge Mount's in Chrome Black and Somekind of Fake Woodgrain, or Some Such. I Believe The Oil Pressure Gauges Where Electric Sending Unit Type, Need to Look Again and Double Check. About Positive They are Though. Those Work Too, Even if Slowly.

No Lights are Bulb Inserts but. for Free I am Sure as Heck Not Complaining.  



It's an Old Hot Rodder's Trick, Drag Racers Too, To Put a Vacuum Gauge Under The Hood, Especially With Dual Carburetors, To Make It Easy To Adjust and Check Idle Mixture Screws.

It Also Shows The Basic Condition of The Engines Health if You Know The Different Vacuum Gauge Signs (There Are Charts in The Old Shop Manuals on That) and Under What Conditions They Will Present Themselves.

An Old School Scan Tool, So To Speak.

This Engine is Pulling a Steady 16 or so Hg. of Vaccum at Idle.

Snap The Throttle, It Jumps Up, Then Imediately(Sp) Drops Down. I Did Not Notice The Exact Amount. I will Re-Check That Later.

I ASS/UME The Water Temperature Gauge Needs a Ground Wire. I Did Not Get Anything Hooking a Jumper to The OEM Sending Unit, Holding It in My Hand. I will Play with it Some More but, The OEM Dash Gauge Works Fine.

This Truck Has a Pretty Large Radiator, a Big Transmission Cooler in Series with The Radiator and Runs at The N or at Most O Position on the Dash Gauge. That's Very Nice for a Texas Summer at 100 Degree's Plus Fahrenheit.

Might Play with It Some.

I Started One a Few Years Ago and Never Finished It.

I was doing a 3310 No Dash for Some Ones Re-Do of There High School {1969} 1970's Hot Rod Ford Mustang With a Stroked FE 390. If I Remember Correctly It Was Like a 415Cid. He Did Not Go Crazy on His Deal.

He Wanted The Works, All New Hardware Vintage Style With Original Main Body (3310 No-Dash, Any Date Code OK, Though) Metering Blocks ( 5271 {P} 4519 {S} ) and Bowls Ect.. Extremely Nice Guy and Very Generous to Get it Done Exactly The Way it Was, and He Wanted It.  

He Said I Could Skip the Old Style Z-16 Chevelle Throttle Arm. He Supplied The Base Plate He Had as Well as Another 750 Parts Carburetor. The Parts Carburetor Looked Almost New and He Said Keep Everthing You Don't Use Off Of It. He Especially Wanted New Screwdriver Slotted Bowl Screws. No Problem, FleeBay to The Rescue, LoL. I Did Get Him The GM Paddle Accelerator Pump Arm That Angles Out in The Opposite Direction as The Ford Paddle Arms. No 1965 Peanut Bowls Thankfully, As He Had The Large Inlet Nuts on His HS/College Days Ride. I Did Get Him The Early Style With The Wrench Flats Though. I Think We went with the 3/8" Inlet Ones and Not The 5/16" Ones That Some Holley's Came With Back Then.

He Sent Me A Vintage Gear Drive Kit, a Conversion Center Pump Shooter and Another Progressive Mechanical Throttle Arm Kit. He Was Not Going to Use It, And Knew I Liked the OLD School "Stuff".

DaVinci Did the Tumbling and Plating, Since He is Local, for Me. And A Big Name with an Excellent Reputation, So You Know it Will Come Out Right.

Also Got a Bunch of His Take-Off Parts, As He Always Does Not Re-Use Them, as It is Cheaper To Buy New Plated Hardware, Then to Re-Plate Steel Parts.








Keep In Mind a Holley List #4224 660Cfm Center Squirter Came From a 600Cfm VS With a 750VS Base Plate With a Mechanical Early Style Wing Arm Throttle Lever/Linkage. They Had Very Little Progressive Movement Until All 4 Barrels Opened. Mainly The Progressive was to Get The Vehicle From The Pits to The Starting Line of The Race Track.

^ The 660's Where Not Much Intended For Street Use. They Saw A Lot of It Though Back in The 1970's and 80's.

Back in The Day The Hot Rod Magazines Had Do It Yourself Conversion Articles on a Way To Put a 850 Base Plate On Them to Get More CFM.

I Have Enough 750Cfm Base Plates and 750VS Bodies That I Will Likely Save My Harder To Come by Base Plates for 850DP's.

Plus I Don't Want To Open Up My 750 Bodies, Even Though They are Very Cheap and Plentiful, For a Few More CFM.

I Would Likely Just Put Metering Plates and Side Hung Bowls on My 850 (4223 Center Squirters) First.

^ It's a Reversible Deal For Them, Otherwise, I Would Not Even Think of Doing It To Such Rare 1969 Vintage Holley's

PS 1: For The Record a 3310 No Dash and 3310-1 {4150's Both, With Down Leg Boosters and Press in Extended Vacuum Secondary Pickup Tube, In The Primary Passenger Side Barrel (Very Fast Reacting Secondary Action With That)} are Rated at 780Cfm. They are Really 800Cfm. The Early Main Bodies Without The Secondary Double Pumper Shooter Boss Flow a Tad More. The SS Guys Crave Them For The Last Drop of HP.   

PS 2: I Test Drove Cristine With The Light Secondary Carburetor, Secondary Barrel Spring and 2,800 Stall. Much Better Now Then Before.

Need a Lighter Primary Carburetor Spring Too I Suppose.

And a Personal Gas Station for Continued WOT TESTING!

I Almost Forgot, DaVinci Threw These Ford 460 Marine Carburetor Bodies in The Scrap Heap.

They Mike Out To 780 Size with Downleg Boosters and a Ford 9510 OEM Part Number on Them.  

The Holley Book Shows Them To Be a 600 Cfm. They Most Certainly ARE NOT. NO WAY NO HOW AT ALL!!!    

And The Icing on The Cake So To Speak, Is They Also Don't Have a Rear Shooter Boss in Their Castings.

Hey Hey HeyHey as They Say. One Mans Trash is Another Mans Treasure.






I am Leaning Toward The Ford OEM Part Number Marine Holley's Now.

^ I Mean What's More Cool Then Having a Big Block Ford That's Almost 100% OEM Ford and Runs Like a Scaled Ape To Boot!!!  

I was Looking For Another 750 Base Plate in One of My Holley Stash Spots, and Plumb Forgot I Had These.  

If Anyone Wants To Look Them Up For Their Build, They are Holley List # 7128

Holley Made a 1971 460 Marine 780 Center Hung Bowls, Dual Metering Blocks, Down Leg Boosters, All The Holley Old School Good, Ect., 4150 Also. Extremely Cool 780VS Used For 429SCJ Carburetor Cloning Too.

PS 1: Well Well Lookie Here.

^ Someone Ought To Buy This for 3 Bills and Not Me. Probably 1 and a Half or Two(2) Bill's with a 100 Bucks Shipping, Ouch!!! Don't Think That's Going To Move Very Fast Anytime Soon. Could Be Wrong Though, Marine "Stuff" is Funny That Way.

D0OE 9425C Ring Any Bells Around Here on Intake Manifolds?

Look at The Ports if It Don't.!!!

Look at The Holley On Top of It Closely. Notice The Type of Boosters (Only Can See The Rear, That's Enough Though to Tell).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/186060471613

Pure Dee Sleeper There

Not Just a Cobra Baby, But A King Corba. Forged Pistons and a Few Other Goodies I Bet. OMC Drives Suck Though

PS: 2 Here's The 1971 460 Marine 4150VS 780 . It Is Ford Number 9510TA

It's List #6361 OEM # 9510TA

https://www.ebay.com/itm/166375402083?hash=item26bcbf2a63:g:8xIAAOSw3BhlKD7t&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwAIg0zBrOiPQY33dYVHXIsMXe%2Blt%2F%2FnM28I%2Bo5zoBqHw%2BuBC41%2BL6KSvMNtVJto2OKNhKHTrcSzmI%2BdnYveVodOwnOb9MY9B5Z8flI99znPwulZBcbkjPR0%2BOMPP8xzJap1EDUE7wkQ04zAKB1W5q7cxzclx%2FDpmfSA2AFicoVUHV7c9rcCyKEJEHRxfHvJbyFlMSLsWKri9O9AtEYJoUN4L8RZOaMG12uxfFkEUsttMOy7lxyqdCKPQMaDz7BxXsA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4qhiZX1Yg

You Can See The Holley List # on The Metering Blocks on This One With The Choke Tower Cut Off. Also Notice The PCV Port to the Front and The Marine and Early Ford Throttle Arm. You Have To Scroll Down After You Hit The FleeBay Link, as it is a SOLD Item.

Scrounged a Few More Part's from the Stash for Them.

On Metering Blocks if You Come Across one of These (Just The Main Body) and Want To Run a Traditional 750-780VS #5271 Primary Metering Block, You Will Have A Problem.

1. I Guess You Could Drill Out The Metering Block and Use The New Style Holley Brass O-Ring Transfer Tube.

2 . And More To My Liking, You Could Cut One (1) Transfer Tube Almost in Half. Then Shorten Both Half's Until it Just Stick's Out of The Main Body Enough To Press Up Against The Rear Metering Block to Body Gasket, and Seal The Accelerator Pump Circuit.

^I Have Never Done This but, I am Going to Give it a Shot, as I Want to Run #5271 Metering Blocks on These, Unmolested.

Below is The Bass O-Ring Transfer Tube and Part # Number Holley #26-23, Incase or When The Link Goes Away, for Future Reference...

https://www.holley.com/products/discontinued_product/parts/26-23

And A Few Pictures of The List #7128's.

For Reference of The Venturi Size I Threw in a 3310 780Cfm Main Body and a Complete Holley List #4455-S 855VS From 1968 That was Sold by Holley.

I Believe They (4455-S's) Were Intended For Dual Quad Cross Rams as Well as I Guess, In Line Tunnel Rams and Dual Quads.





Oh and PS: Christine Just Picked Up a Cylinder and A Half In Part Due To Some of my BaFoonery and Part to Having Other Complications with Unforseen Problems Lining Everything Out From Scratch.

I'll Just Say She is an Extremely Happy Camper with The Extra HP That was Dangling Off One of The Spark Thingies and Changing a Wet One. "It/Shit Happen's"

PS 2: Since I Have So Much So Called Holley "Junk" I will Likely Build Out The 750 Center Squiters (Have Two{2} Main Bodies Just Sitting Around) and The 780-800VS's and See What Gives Between Them for Comparision.

This Holley List #7128 Came With A #47 Thick (Old Style) Metering Plate.

As You Can See in The Holley Chart it is a .031" IFR and an .089" Main (Jet)  Feed Hole, Which Equates to a 78 Jet Size.

The 3310-2 and Up Come With a #21 Metering Plate. They Have a .040" IFR and a .081" Main Jet Feed Hole Which Equals a 74 Jet Size.

Not a Big Problem if Building Dual Carburetors.

Rob the Dumpster/Trash Bin, and get a List # 1850 (Preferabley One With All The Plastic Junk on It To Canalbilize) 600VS. Most Have a #9 Rear Metering Plate..031" and .067".

If You Want a Smaller IFR Grab an Emission's 600 for That.

Then Break Out The Drill Bit's and Get To It.





And Another PS: I Think I Have Spent as Much Time Taking and Posting Pictures as Well as Sourceing InterWeb Parts For This Build as I Have Spent Actually Working On The Pile of Shit. It's All Good Though.

Hope It Inspires Someone Else Somewhere To Get Busy on Their Shitbox, Like Another Member From Texas Did Me. All I Can Say is Thank's To Him for That.

Anywhere Anytime Anyplace.

With The Advent of Pro Rock Crawling we Drag Truck and Off Road Combination/Hot Rod Guys Have Never Had it So Good.

The Old School Mud Grips When Brand New Hooked a Little With The Limited HP we Had as Youngun's.

Now They Make All Kinds of Soft Compound Off-Road Tires.

I Have Never Tried Them.

I Just Run The Foggie Tall Narrow (Find the Bottom or Sink) Swampers For Getting Off The Pavement Since 1999, Locked In The Rear. They Get Me By, Until They Don't. Off Road Driving Skill and Experience is a Big Part Going to The Wild's in 2X4. It's Not For Everyone and Bring a 4X4$ Partner if You Do. Cell Phones Might Not Work Out in The Out Back and The Bill Likely Will Hurt  





Yes Lockers and Spool's Work. Limited Slip/Posi's Suck When The Going Get's Rough and It Counts!



Yea I Know It's a Chebby, Oh Well  

^ It's a Good Rig to Take To Sketchy Tracks in The Hood in Texas Like HMP and Yellow Belly, as Nobody Will Likely Jack You for Your Ride, If You Don't Flash Any Bling and Blend In. Who Would Have Thunk It.  

And Yes I Backed Right Off Of The Play Mound. Not Enough Ground Clearance To Go Over It Without High Centering is Why. And Yes I did Try That Before and Got Stuck. Had a Very Very Very Serious Extraction Rig With a High Compression 466 CJ and a Hydraulic Heavy Duty Wench Yank Her Right Off. You Can See The Tire and The Back of The Bed in the Background of One of The Pictures

Anyways Saw These With A Quickie Google Fu Search.

The Price is Not as Bad as I Was Expecting, Either.


https://www.amazon.com/Roadone-Calvary-MT-285-75r16LT/dp/B084H3763L/ref=asc_df_B084H3763L/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=642049496388&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7790486810904677443&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027791&hvtargid=pla-1979075937724&psc=1


https://www.prioritytire.com/evoluxx-rotator-m-t-lt-305-70r16-124-121q-e-10-ply-mt-mud-terrain-tire?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAgK2qBhCHARIsAGACuzmJLNwEkvE3Okwe4bl4PQBZU8XJAhpDw7gAyyoHCnwKGJyihl66ebQaAswIEALw_wcB

https://www.ebay.com/itm/325876279030?fits=Section+Width%3A305%7CRim+Diameter%3A16%7CAspect+Ratio%3A70&hash=item4bdfbd66f6:g:OBIAAOSwmStk1Qg4

I Just Started Looking. I Will Continue Until I Find Something That May Work.

Like I Said, I Want To Be Able To Play On and Off Road with This Rig.

In The Meantime the Kid Has Some 35's on 10" Aluminum Wheels I will give a go as soon as I get Lug Nuts That Fit and See What The 3.54 Gears Think of Them on Motor as Well as Nitrous in The Very Near Future, Hopefully.

PS: Another Sneaky Street Racing Trick Popped Into My Head with This Deal

It's A Real Long Shot Though but, A Definite Maybe.

A Short Tailshaft C6 With a Custom Geared Transfer Case.

One That Would Knock The 3.54 Gear Down to 4.10 or 4.56 in Low.

Shorten The Driveshaft if Needed and Install The Floor Shifter.

I Will Have to Check Into What's Out There in That Department Nowadays. 4x4 Friends That are Builders/Fabbers are Good to Have for Such Projects.

I am Going to Convert These Two(2) 4223's for Inline Use on The 472PI and Whatever Cid The D9 Comes Out As.

The Engine in Her Now, Can Give Them a Go For Kicks.

The D9( will Likely be Built with The CompCams SFT 294B8 I Have or Maybe a Used Solid Roller Cam. Or a Bigger SFT? It will Likely be 11.5 All The Way to 14/1 Compression Depending on What Parts/Heads I Come Up With and How Crazy I Go Decking and Milling The Heads and Block?

It Will be a Flat Top Pistoned Engine Either Way.

^Might Get Low Tension Thin Rings and It Might Not. Likely Not Though

As You Can See From The Pictures or at Least One of Them, One(1) 4223 has 5271 Primary and 4519 Secondary Metering Blocks.

^ It's The One With The Custom 4294V Bowls I Had Lazer Etched. By Having The Holley List #3310 780Cfm Metering Blocks, Which are Fine By The Way For an 850, Is Why I Scored it So Cheap on FleeBay.

It's Brother Has The Correct Metering Blocks Though.

The Metering Plate Can Come Off, and The Original Block Right Back On. No Problem There, and The Tapped Metering Plate Screws will Never Likely be Noticed, Except for The Most Astute Old Old Builders Who May Have Had One Back in The Day, Way Back.





My Current Plan, For The Moment, Is To Run Everything From 600 Eddies to 850 Center Squirters and Inbetween for Carburetion Comparision on a Stock Smogger, as Far as I Know, and See How Much it Will Take With The Blue Thunder Dual Quad Intake. With Single Exhaust and Manifolds and Then 2 1/2" Duals and Then Headers.

I May Skip the Manifolds and 2 1/2" Duals to Save Labor, and Duel it Out with Headers All at The Same Time Though.

Next a 472 with Ported PI Heads and Mid 9/1 Compression and a Bigger Camshaft but, One That Will Be Fine For Daily or at Least Weekly Street Driving. Maybe Even Light Towing.

Then Off To The Races.

Stroker Crank Kit With Flattops, Likely, And All The Way to Dual Dominators and Sheet Metal Intake with Plates and at Least One(1) Fogger Kit, Maybe, On The Fogger.

^ We Will See If The Above Pans Out. Depends on Many Factors. Many of Which are Way Out of My Control, If You Know What I Mean

So Far So Good.

That Could Change Real Quick Though, Depending on The World Peace and Petrol Situation At The Current Time.

Pray A Lot Fellows.

These May Be The Good Old Days

PS: Don't Elect Stupid Wanna Be Communist FuckTards and DeGeneRates in The Future, Unless You Like The Bull Shit We Have Now

Brain Dead Idiots and Bastards!!! EveryONE/All of Them

And PS: ^ You'all Above Pukes Please Quit Moving Out of Your Shit Holes To Texas or Leave Your IdiotArcy Behind!

I am Surprized How Light a Dana 60 4-Link Back Half Is.

The 70 Ring Gear was 10 Lbs and The Detroit Locker as Well as The Open OEM Carrier was About 35 Lbs..

A D60 With a Spool or Light Weight Spool Will Be Much Less!

I Am Also Surprized How  InExpensive Used D60 Parts Gears and Spools are on FleeBay Going By Current Listings and Completed Listings!

The Differential Housing Was Empty, Except For The Axles (Strange) When I Un-Loaded It Off The Truck By-MySelf.

^ And NO, I Did Not Tie a Chain To Something and Drive Off and Let It Drop.

As A Matter of Fact When I Was Lowering It Down, I Did Not Drop It at All, By Angling It Off and Sliding It Over The Edge of The Tailgate.

Well The Cleanup (Rust Ect.) Begins.

Next Primer and Paint.

Then (Aquire Second Hand Parts, New or Used) Put The Guts in The Housing.

Then To The Likely More Expensive Part (Brakes, We'll See I Guess)???

Oh-Yea and Coil-Overs

Then Decide What ( This Project, Or Something Else, Or Wait For More HP For "Christine" ) ???

No Rush and Enjoying The Build.





Found A Killer Deal on Dana 4.10 Gears and a 1350 Yoke Also, If The Guy Did Not Sell Them, and Gets Back With Me.

Yes I Know The Spool Listing is For 4.56 and Lower. Just Used it as an Example of What's Out There For These Price Wise on The Non Corporate New Market, If You Don't Rush and Shop Around Awhile.

Fast Cars and Trucks Don't Always Have To Cost A Mint.

PS: Our Local NAPA AP is Having Their Monthly 30% Off Sale This Morning.

^ Whether It's In Stock or They Have To Order It.


Hard to Beat That   !!!

30X10.5X15 U 32X14x15 N or 33X16.5X15 U

The Last Set of 33's are Pretty Old and Sketchy.

The New Set, Well is New and You Can Still Smell The Rubber. The 30's Look Good Also but, Are Not Fresh.

It's Always Good to have a Couple or Choices.

I Don't Think I Will Ever Likely Put Out Enough HP and Traction To Break These.

Maybe With an A460 Big Bore 4.5" or 4.75" Stroker Crank and a 4.6" Bore, With a Big Fogger or a Full Shot From Two(2) Big Shot Plates Without Jets, Bead Locks, Dead Hooking With 500Lbs or Lead in The Back of The Bed. !  ,Maybe.

Just Have To Upgrade to 40 Spline at That Point, Like It Will Ever Go That Far.





V After A Very Light Cleaning and Some Industrial "Grease In A Can" To Help desolve The Light Rust/Corrosion.



Hope To Have Everything Wire Wheeled and Cleaned and Primed by The End of The Weekend. We'll See

While I am Cutting The Frame Up.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffH_RvbR_q0



I Probably Should Get a Really Trashed Out Roller, Without a Bed, And Just Aluminum Flatbed It.

Then Do The CrownVic Front Half, It Seems For Some Reason.

30 Bucks is Cool. 30 Shipping Not So Much NowaDays.

I Remember 40 in the 80's and Early 90's at Super Shops and On HiLo's Speed Rack Isle, LoL.

When I was Polishing The Chrome Low and Behold What Was Stuck in The End of One.





I Doubt They'll Do Much, Other Then Look Good. Did Not Have any Wheel Hop, Before. They Should Keep The Springs From Winding Up I Guess.

Lotta Cleaning and Prep Work.

Slowly Gathering More Parts.

Getting Closer on The D60 Parts to be Ready to Assemble.





I'll Leave The 4 Link Build in This Thread, It's More Then Likely Going to Go In an F100 or F150 Roller to Save Weight. No Sense in Cutting Up a Perfectly Good Antique F250HD 460 Truck, That Can Tow, At Least to Me.

Now a TotallyTrash F250 Maybe