popping from exhaust

Ive been fighting a popping under full throttle from the exhaust on my boss 9 deal. Details are, kaase heads out of the box, setup from kaase for the cam they also sent. Flat top pistons 4.5 stroke, stock block with 4.400 bore. Kaase 4500 intake with rons terminator on alchohol. I ran the car yesterday, its a 235 inch rear engine dragster with a glide. I started out 6.02 1/8th mile, popping and farting all the way. Came back to the pits put my spare 7al-3 box on it, went 5.44, still has some popping. timing was at 34 degrees with the old box and verified 34 with the new. backed timing back to 32 and helped somewaht, went 5.39. backed timing back to 30 picked up a little more, went 5.31 and picked up 7 mph. I'd like to have some of yalls ideas on this deal. it fought me in the cougar, now its fighting me on the dragster, at least its easier to work on lol,

Running lean?

fordmonsta wrote:Ive been fighting a popping under full throttle from the exhaust on my boss 9 deal. Details are, kaase heads out of the box, setup from kaase for the cam they also sent. Flat top pistons 4.5 stroke, stock block with 4.400 bore. Kaase 4500 intake with rons terminator on alchohol. I ran the car yesterday, its a 235 inch rear engine dragster with a glide. I started out 6.02 1/8th mile, popping and farting all the way. Came back to the pits put my spare 7al-3 box on it, went 5.44, still has some popping. timing was at 34 degrees with the old box and verified 34 with the new. backed timing back to 32 and helped somewaht, went 5.39. backed timing back to 30 picked up a little more, went 5.31 and picked up 7 mph. I'd like to have some of yalls ideas on this deal. it fought me in the cougar, now its fighting me on the dragster, at least its easier to work on lol,

Years ago I encountered that same issue and it was that the ignition was not GETTING enough amperage to work correctly at higher RPM but, that was not with a CD ignition. That ignition was "inductive" but, I imagine some of the same problems could exist.

For some reasoning your mixture is not getting ignited everytime and that causes the popping down the track ... to lean, for whatever reason, could certainly be the issue.

Keep backing off the ignition timing and add fuel. Mine liked 26* but it was A460 headed deal on alky.

found a bad plug in number 5, and a bad wire on number 1. neither cylinder was firing at idle. ordered a set of moroso wires that they said would fit, they did not. So i'm looking for options on a boss wire, the hole in the head only measures .944 so a regular hemi wire doesnt work.

fordmonsta wrote:Ive been fighting a popping under full throttle from the exhaust on my boss 9 deal. Details are, kaase heads out of the box, setup from kaase for the cam they also sent. Flat top pistons 4.5 stroke, stock block with 4.400 bore. Kaase 4500 intake with rons terminator on alchohol. I ran the car yesterday, its a 235 inch rear engine dragster with a glide. I started out 6.02 1/8th mile, popping and farting all the way. Came back to the pits put my spare 7al-3 box on it, went 5.44, still has some popping. timing was at 34 degrees with the old box and verified 34 with the new. backed timing back to 32 and helped somewaht, went 5.39. backed timing back to 30 picked up a little more, went 5.31 and picked up 7 mph. I'd like to have some of yalls ideas on this deal. it fought me in the cougar, now its fighting me on the dragster, at least its easier to work on lol,

Simply bad "rotor phasing" could also cause this kind of issue.

ran this rotten bastard today, nothing has changed. still popping and farting. Put a new set of plugs in, nothing different. Got me to thinking on what all was transferred from the cougar to the dragster. The only thing left that hasnt been replaced is the engine. Compression and leak down checks out great, I jetted it way rich and way lean, it doesnt make any difference. Got to thinking about quench, as its the only damn thing i can come up with, It is a tight .022. I put a thin head gasket on trying to get the compression up. Would this have anything to do with anything? I"m at a loss, I changed ignition box, rewired the whole car with a K&r setup, new coil, new distributor, everything.

Did you do anything with the Rotor Phasing like Randy mentioned?

fordmonsta wrote:ran this rotten bastard today, nothing has changed. still popping and farting. Put a new set of plugs in, nothing different. Got me to thinking on what all was transferred from the cougar to the dragster. The only thing left that hasnt been replaced is the engine. Compression and leak down checks out great, I jetted it way rich and way lean, it doesnt make any difference. Got to thinking about quench, as its the only damn thing i can come up with, It is a tight .022. I put a thin head gasket on trying to get the compression up. Would this have anything to do with anything? I"m at a loss, I changed ignition box, rewired the whole car with a K&r setup, new coil, new distributor, everything.

When you said the above, as well as good compression/leakdown this came to mind. Very highly unlikely, I know.

https://www.460ford.com/threads/firing-order-camshaft-change-for-460.119624/

Have you changed fuel source? Just asking.

Yea and what Randy said.

So what about the bad plug on one cylinder and wire on another? Surely with that fixed it would run a much better time?

Hope you don't spin a rod bearing or have one get close. Not much cushion there. Doubt that's your problem, unless it's some kind of BOSS head deal.

Call Kaase and get wires and do not lean it out.

Get it figure out before you keep running it.

fordmonsta wrote:Ive been fighting a popping under full throttle from the exhaust on my boss 9 deal. Details are, kaase heads out of the box, setup from kaase for the cam they also sent. Flat top pistons 4.5 stroke, stock block with 4.400 bore. Kaase 4500 intake with rons terminator on alchohol. I ran the car yesterday, its a 235 inch rear engine dragster with a glide. I started out 6.02 1/8th mile, popping and farting all the way. Came back to the pits put my spare 7al-3 box on it, went 5.44, still has some popping. timing was at 34 degrees with the old box and verified 34 with the new. backed timing back to 32 and helped somewaht, went 5.39. backed timing back to 30 picked up a little more, went 5.31 and picked up 7 mph. I'd like to have some of yalls ideas on this deal. it fought me in the cougar, now its fighting me on the dragster, at least its easier to work on lol,

You're headed in the right direction...Back the timing up more, until the MPH gains drop off....
Do you have and EGT gauge on it ?? 1 cylinder or all ??

[
Yes it's a boss headed deal. I have gotten alky from 2 different places also. The bad plug and wire I thought was it was apparently not.







quote="supervel45"]

fordmonsta wrote:ran this rotten bastard today, nothing has changed. still popping and farting. Put a new set of plugs in, nothing different. Got me to thinking on what all was transferred from the cougar to the dragster. The only thing left that hasnt been replaced is the engine. Compression and leak down checks out great, I jetted it way rich and way lean, it doesnt make any difference. Got to thinking about quench, as its the only damn thing i can come up with, It is a tight .022. I put a thin head gasket on trying to get the compression up. Would this have anything to do with anything? I"m at a loss, I changed ignition box, rewired the whole car with a K&r setup, new coil, new distributor, everything.

When you said the above, as well as good compression/leakdown this came to mind. Very highly unlikely, I know.

https://www.460ford.com/threads/firing-order-camshaft-change-for-460.119624/

Have you changed fuel source? Just asking.

Yea and what Randy said.

So what about the bad plug on one cylinder and wire on another? Surely with that fixed it would run a much better time?

Hope you don't spin a rod bearing or have one get close. Not much cushion there. Doubt that's your problem, unless it's some kind of BOSS head deal.[/quote]

I don't have a egt meter on it at the moment. I called rons and told them what I had and they reccomended the current pill size and nozzle size too.

QtrWarrior wrote:

fordmonsta wrote:Ive been fighting a popping under full throttle from the exhaust on my boss 9 deal. Details are, kaase heads out of the box, setup from kaase for the cam they also sent. Flat top pistons 4.5 stroke, stock block with 4.400 bore. Kaase 4500 intake with rons terminator on alchohol. I ran the car yesterday, its a 235 inch rear engine dragster with a glide. I started out 6.02 1/8th mile, popping and farting all the way. Came back to the pits put my spare 7al-3 box on it, went 5.44, still has some popping. timing was at 34 degrees with the old box and verified 34 with the new. backed timing back to 32 and helped somewaht, went 5.39. backed timing back to 30 picked up a little more, went 5.31 and picked up 7 mph. I'd like to have some of yalls ideas on this deal. it fought me in the cougar, now its fighting me on the dragster, at least its easier to work on lol,

You're headed in the right direction...Back the timing up more, until the MPH gains drop off....
Do you have and EGT gauge on it ??  1 cylinder or all ??

Have you checked valve lash? Sometimes an exhaust rocker may be a little tight and holding the valve open and causing the popping in the exhaust.
Just a thought

So I finally got around to checking rotor phasing, and understanding what's being phased. The screw on the cap in the picture is where the rotor is when it's throwing spark to number one terminal. Way the hell off. This was with timing locked out at 32 degrees

fordmonsta wrote:So I finally got around to checking rotor phasing, and understanding what's being phased. The screw on the cap in the picture is where the rotor is when it's throwing spark to number one terminal. Way the hell off. This was with timing locked out at 32 degrees

Where's the Number 1 Cylinder Terminal at in your Picture?

Mark Miller wrote:

fordmonsta wrote:So I finally got around to checking rotor phasing, and understanding what's being phased. The screw on the cap in the picture is where the rotor is when it's throwing spark to number one terminal. Way the hell off. This was with timing locked out at 32 degrees

Where's the Number 1 Cylinder Terminal at in your Picture?

Sometimes, you can get away with simply clipping off one side of the rotor electrical tang.
Moving the pick-up plate or an adjustable rotor is the real fix.

[
It's where the hole is drilled.






quote="Mark Miller"]

fordmonsta wrote:So I finally got around to checking rotor phasing, and understanding what's being phased. The screw on the cap in the picture is where the rotor is when it's throwing spark to number one terminal. Way the hell off. This was with timing locked out at 32 degrees

Where's the Number 1 Cylinder Terminal at in your Picture? [/quote]

What would it ( The Rotor Position ) look like if you retarded your timing to 26 degree's and moved the #1 plug wire to the pin on the left of the screw (from your picture), along with the rest of the wires with them in the correct firing order?

I may be thinking the direction wrong but, you get what I'm saying.

supervel45 wrote:What would it ( The Rotor Position ) look like if you retarded your timing to 26 degree's and moved the #1 plug wire to the pin on the left of the screw (from your picture), along with the rest of the wires with them in the correct firing order?

I may be thinking the direction wrong but, you get what I'm saying.

Why do all that, when you can just move the distrib 1 tooth and get it right ??

QtrWarrior wrote:

supervel45 wrote:What would it ( The Rotor Position ) look like if you retarded your timing to 26 degree's and moved the #1 plug wire to the pin on the left of the screw (from your picture), along with the rest of the wires with them in the correct firing order?

I may be thinking the direction wrong but, you get what I'm saying.

Why do all that, when you can just move the distrib 1 tooth and get it right ??

MAYBE ...

rmcomprandy wrote:

QtrWarrior wrote:

supervel45 wrote:What would it ( The Rotor Position ) look like if you retarded your timing to 26 degree's and moved the #1 plug wire to the pin on the left of the screw (from your picture), along with the rest of the wires with them in the correct firing order?

I may be thinking the direction wrong but, you get what I'm saying.

Why do all that, when you can just move the distrib 1 tooth and get it right ??

MAYBE ...

Ok...maybe 2 teeth...

QtrWarrior wrote:

rmcomprandy wrote:

QtrWarrior wrote:

supervel45 wrote:What would it ( The Rotor Position ) look like if you retarded your timing to 26 degree's and moved the #1 plug wire to the pin on the left of the screw (from your picture), along with the rest of the wires with them in the correct firing order?

I may be thinking the direction wrong but, you get what I'm saying.

Why do all that, when you can just move the distrib 1 tooth and get it right ??

MAYBE ...

Ok...maybe 2 teeth...

The magnetic impulse gives the ignition the signal to fire so, that has to somehow get re-aligned or move the rotor or cap to match the impulse.
Moving the gear will change the wire location but, not the rotor phasing issue.

rmcomprandy wrote:

QtrWarrior wrote:

rmcomprandy wrote:

QtrWarrior wrote:

supervel45 wrote:What would it ( The Rotor Position ) look like if you retarded your timing to 26 degree's and moved the #1 plug wire to the pin on the left of the screw (from your picture), along with the rest of the wires with them in the correct firing order?

I may be thinking the direction wrong but, you get what I'm saying.

Why do all that, when you can just move the distrib 1 tooth and get it right ??

MAYBE ...

Ok...maybe 2 teeth...

The magnetic impulse gives the ignition the signal to fire so, that has to somehow get re-aligned or move the rotor or cap to match the impulse.
Moving the gear will change the wire location but, not the rotor phasing issue.

True, thats why I said move it a tooth or so...He and I have been discussing this on Book face, so, I may have "short cutted" my response here, by not giving the whole conversation..

i had popping on my 521 caused by to rich of a condition as well. i think it may be a combo of bad rotor phaseing and or bad fuel ratio .also the plug gap may be the issue i noticed i had some ngk race plugs open up a huge gap for whatever reason . i know i went from .0027 down to .0023 and seemed to help with igniting the mixture . i have heard alcohol can be harder to light.
i would think tightr quench area like you said you have would help not make it worse.
like randy said maybe get a "adjustable " rotor than you can phase it perfectly .

rmcomprandy wrote:

QtrWarrior wrote:

rmcomprandy wrote:

QtrWarrior wrote:

supervel45 wrote:What would it ( The Rotor Position ) look like if you retarded your timing to 26 degree's and moved the #1 plug wire to the pin on the left of the screw (from your picture), along with the rest of the wires with them in the correct firing order?

I may be thinking the direction wrong but, you get what I'm saying.

Why do all that, when you can just move the distrib 1 tooth and get it right ??

MAYBE ...

Ok...maybe 2 teeth...

The magnetic impulse gives the ignition the signal to fire so, that has to somehow get re-aligned or move the rotor or cap to match the impulse.
Moving the gear will change the wire location but, not the rotor phasing issue.