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? 4 link kits

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Post  69F100 January 15th 2010, 9:29 pm

Who sale a good low budget 4 link set up fix to start shopping around and looking for good set up to put under the ranger mild steel set up are they any on here saling 4 links if so let me now getting close to time to get it.
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Post  bruno January 16th 2010, 3:12 pm

Give George a call at S and W

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Post  TravisRice January 16th 2010, 4:03 pm

ART in St. Pete Fla. has some nice stuff. Thats who I used for my 62 build.

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Post  the Coug January 16th 2010, 7:30 pm

I used Chassis works.....



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Post  studly January 16th 2010, 9:18 pm

have an S&W no problems
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Post  DILLIGASDAVE January 16th 2010, 9:57 pm

Vanishing Point probably isn't an option any more at this time. But a lot of the other 4-links on the market based on the more "modern" 4-link design (tall housing & chassis brackets with a ton of holes) and are nice setups to choose from with slight design differences.

Tim McAmis.....In my opinion one of the best designed 4-links for faster low slung full chassis cars. His chassis bracket probably has around a 55/45% to 60/40% split between the number of top holes vs lower holes. But said bracket might not be the best choice if the car in question has frame rails that sit fairly high off the ground.

Rick Jones/Quarter max.....Another great design. His chassis brackets are probably around a 65/35% to 70/30% split, which is great for guys that like to do more of their I/C length adjusting with mostly the top bars. Plus he offers a number of different chassis bracket shapes work with different frame rail heights & box vs round frame rails.

Jerry Bickel/A.R.T........ART's "Sportsman" kit is usable if you don't mind the smaller ms 1" x .156" wall DOM tubing. It's chassis bracket is defiantly meant for a frame rail that sit's higher off the ground. Their "Pro" series kit is basically the same but uses bigger OD moly tubing & moly brackets. Their top "Ultra Pro" series is different because it's a Jerry Bickel design (which is good), but it's chassis bracket really needs to be used on a low frame rail height chassis.

Chris Alston's Chassis Works....His top "Eliminator II" series 4-link is great for a faster low & medium height chassis. He does offer a lower priced "Battle Cruiser" kit, but it's really not the best choice in my opinion. Even though the BC does offer a bunch of different chassis bracket shapes to work with different chassis heights, it's housing brackets are really skimpy.

S&W.....Their "Ultra Pro Laser" & lower priced "Laser" kits are usable. Their not the best looking bracket design out there for a "modern style 4-link", (but they are better than the Alston Battle Cruiser design). The S&W housing bracket is OK, but you might have a hard time using the chassis bracket on a real low full chassis height (say 3.5 to 4" off the ground)

Chassis Engineering......Their "Top Gun" kits are OK. It's housing bracket is a little bulky & over kill with way, way more shock mounting bracket holes than is necessary. Not the best chassis bracket shape for a super low chassis, but probably OK with a medium height chassis.
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Post  69F100 January 16th 2010, 10:09 pm

thanks guys keep um coming checking them out i have never bought a 4 link before just don't want to buy some junk that i have to keep adjusting to never get it right
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Post  DILLIGASDAVE January 16th 2010, 10:29 pm

Forgot to mention that of the two basic ways of attaching a 4-link chassis bracket to the frame/chassis structure........ ([A] welded directly to a chassis tubing upright or [B] weld bracket top/bottom to the lower crossmember (#1) & horizontal cage support (#15) with a boxing strap welded in the middle)........ the "upright" method gives you more of a fudge-factor for making different chassis bracket shapes work with different chassis ride heights off the ground.

But with the "weld top/bottom & box the brackets" method you pretty much have to correctly match the chassis bracket shape you decide to use with the correct chassis ride height you intend to use. Much less room for error.
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Post  69F100 January 17th 2010, 12:46 am

i will more than likely build my own out of tubing to mount to the frame out of 2x4 or 2x6 thank for the info
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Post  69F100 January 18th 2010, 11:16 pm

what do you think about this one A.R.T. is good to do bisiness with i bought my roll cage from them
www.appliedracing.net/product_info.php?cPath=155&products_id=257&osCsid=3fbe3c451c0ced1165794cf2a21e9537
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Post  DILLIGASDAVE January 26th 2010, 11:15 am

69F100 wrote:what do you think about this one www.appliedracing.net/product_info.php?cPath=155&products_id=257&osCsid=3fbe3c451c0ced1165794cf2a21e9537

Yea that's the "sportsman" from ART I mentioned. Like I said for a drag car it's OK if you don't mind using the 1" x .156" wall tubing. But then if your wire welding everything you will probably have to use the 1" x .156" stuff anyway because the upgraded kits with bigger tubing use 'moly weld in threaded inserts & 'moly tubing that must be Tig welded.
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Post  69F100 January 26th 2010, 11:17 pm

I bought one from Jegs with track bar and heim joints and shock mounts for $467
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