Post some things you learned about products after you bought them!

I'd like you all to post things that you wished you had known before you bought a product. I'll start it off with a few I have. This thread is in no way for us to bash a product or a merchant.

1. Jesel shaft rockers are not a bolt on deal. You have to cut ur head studs flush to the nut. You also have to mill part of the rocker arm stand that hangs over the said stud.

2.The supplemental stud kit you buy for the 18 bolt head deal. You should get the kit with the 6pt nut and bolts. If you get the 12pt you will have to track down a very expensive 12pt crows foot or a some what expensive torque adapter.

3. when you buy a replacement shaft for ur MSD dizzy it will come un drilled, you have to drill ur own holes for the collar and gear.

I'll post more as I think of them.

Keep on topic or don't reply.

You have to install the spiral locks in your pistons they should come with one side already installed , a box of band aids , some peroxide in case you stab your self with a screwdriver , and more detailed instructions and proven methods .

jones wrote:Keep on topic or don't reply.

wow jones....?!?!?!?

I bought a Jomar power cone, no instructions, I figure I got a one in eight chance of putting it on correctly.

Will report back my findings when I go test.

you dont need a backing plate with your elec water pump if your running a motor plate...no?

1, Nobody makes a 5.14 pro gear for big pinion bearings.
2, PG install always make the convertor for a midplate even if you don't have one,you can
always shimto set the clearence but if you have no clearence your screwed.
3, Always run 5/8 studs in the axles if you got a heavy dead hooking BBF.
4, MSD dizzy gears put a bigger pin in or double pin it.
5, JW bell with powermaster starter top bolt, no go, run a stud in top hole and install nut as you put starter on.
6, Trans dipsticks seem to be always off!!!!!!! They should not even mark them


This is good stuff

Leave those hyper pistons alone unless you're building a engine for Grandma's Falcon. If she likes to drink a little, I wouldn't use them for that!!!

dirtbogger wrote:Leave those hyper pistons alone unless you're building a engine for Grandma's Falcon. If she likes to drink a little, I wouldn't use them for that!!!

I never heard it put that way I like that

KY JELLY wrote:You have to install the spiral locks in your pistons they should come with one side already installed , a box of band aids , some peroxide in case you stab your self with a screwdriver , and more detailed instructions and proven methods .

Randy, You are right, but I don't have any problem putting them on, its getting them off. My new Diamond,I had Lem get me the new clip type. Thay are easy. Get w/Lem, he know the name for them.

Yea I got 2 sets of pistons with the wire locks .

The Comp Cam beehive valvespring locator seat doesn't fit over the D3ve valvestem boss.

- my A460 block is heavy as h%ll
- once you start building anything beyond stock, nothing is a simple bolt-on
- UPS seems to take forever if you need the part to go racing

I bought a set of NGK plugs at the store. They looked great out of the box, and I was excited to see how much HP I was going to gain with them. Since everyone else was using them, I figured they were a bolt-on deal.

Well, come to find out, the damn things need to be gapped prior to install.

I couldn't believe it.

Wow, look two post dis-appeared imagine that.

New to the Forum.But have been running 460s long time.

Anyway i have yet to find a starter with a jw bellhousing that the drive is the correct distance
to the flywheel.And then after making shims took a little time found a pack a the zone.

spirial lo cks should come with extra fingers.I have seen a little tool to put them in .
but no tool salesman seems to be able to find it.

jts557 wrote:New to the Forum.But have been running 460s long time.

Anyway i have yet to find a starter with a jw bellhousing that the drive is the correct distance
to the flywheel.And then after making shims took a little time found a pack a the zone.

spirial lo cks should come with extra fingers.I have seen a little tool to put them in .
but no tool salesman seems to be able to find it.

Here is the tool.

http://www.lockintool.com/

Thanks i will be buying one.i see why the tool men didnt sell one i figured it would be OTC or mac
ect

I carry these and bought one for dad the other day. It looks like it will work but we haven't tried it yet. These are for removal, not installation.

hooker super comp swap headers are not direct bolt in....

Notch 501 wrote:hooker super comp swap headers are not direct bolt in....

I have had many set of Hookers and absolutely none have ever fit right... Period



Randy

jmayabb wrote:I carry these and bought one for dad the other day. It looks like it will work but we haven't tried it yet. These are for removal, not installation.

I think the installation is really easy,but removal looks like you've been pickin cotton all day

Notch 501 wrote:hooker super comp swap headers are not direct bolt in....

My A460 headers don't fit all that well either. I have the ones where the rear tubes go through the fender wells. On the passenger side 1 tube hits the bell where the starter buldge is, so I am gonna grind on the bell. The driver side the collector sits against the trans pan, gonna have to do some sort of prying. Talk to several people and they ran into same problem.

Man, I really lucked out on my headers for Tweety. I bought them at Norwalk 3 yrs ago not knowing what I would ever use them on. They were from a roadster w/bbc. They fit on the falcon like they were made for it ,all except the frt dr side tube. I had to move it.$250 like new. The sad thing is, if I would have bought them for IT after I bought the car they probably would'nt have fit at all

FMS 1 piece rubber oil pan gasket for BBF comes with the same small metal inserts for 4 end pan bolts as the sides. You have to drill them out to fit.


Couple of tricks I've learned thru trial and error (and a lot of discusion with Jesus):

I use grade 8 bolts or better on c6 bell housing to motor with lock washers. I run the lowest 2 a bit longer and feed them thru the block out the front side. Then I lock washer and just snug up a nut. I've had stock type bolts back off gradually... then starter sounds like sh!t. NOT GOOD!

I use lock washers on carb studs holding down the carb and snug 'em. I've had those vibrate loose over time. Sneaky vacuum leak...

Have 2 converter bolts at 6 & 12 o'clock when bolting up C6 to block w/ flexplate holes in same position. Much easier to get it lined up when you have no visibility with stocker block spacer plate.