convertor talk ?

so when you guys talk about convertors and talk about when the shift comes in the it drops rpms ..what is the ideal drop between shifts ?

how do you know you are "driving thru a convertor" and is that the same as
"blowing thru a convertor" ........ just curious ??

thxs for everyones input
Nick

deleted.

Nick the ideal drop is not as easy as 1 2 3, from what I understand is it needs to drop RPM back onto your Torque Peak, RPM..... this is so it will use the High Torque numbers to pull it back into the Peak Hp range.....I hope that makes sense.... you have your dyno Numbers look at them and figure out what you need...... then ask your converter guy to set up for your App.....



Randy

the Coug wrote:Nick the ideal drop is not as easy as 1 2 3, from what I understand is it needs to drop RPM back onto your Torque Peak, RPM..... this is so it will use the High Torque numbers to pull it back into the Peak Hp range.....I hope that makes sense.... you have your dyno Numbers look at them and figure out what you need...... then ask your converter guy to set up for your App.....



Randy

thats exactly why im going to dyno all my engines for now on BEFORE they go into the car. Id like to get the combo right the first time. more money upfront but less headache and money later.

Maddmattmustangs wrote:

the Coug wrote:Nick the ideal drop is not as easy as 1 2 3, from what I understand is it needs to drop RPM back onto your Torque Peak, RPM..... this is so it will use the High Torque numbers to pull it back into the Peak Hp range.....I hope that makes sense.... you have your dyno Numbers look at them and figure out what you need...... then ask your converter guy to set up for your App.....



Randy

thats exactly why im going to dyno all my engines for now on BEFORE they go into the car. Id like to get the combo right the first time. more money upfront but less headache and money later.

Yhats a help, and a good converter guy like Lenny will get it damn close, but a max effort deal might need a small tweak or two.

The harder I spin mine the harder it "locks up", if I shift at 7000 it falls back to 6000, if I shift at 7400 it falls back to 6000.

richter69 wrote:

Maddmattmustangs wrote:

the Coug wrote:Nick the ideal drop is not as easy as 1 2 3, from what I understand is it needs to drop RPM back onto your Torque Peak, RPM..... this is so it will use the High Torque numbers to pull it back into the Peak Hp range.....I hope that makes sense.... you have your dyno Numbers look at them and figure out what you need...... then ask your converter guy to set up for your App.....



Randy

thats exactly why im going to dyno all my engines for now on BEFORE they go into the car. Id like to get the combo right the first time. more money upfront but less headache and money later.

Yhats a help, and a good converter guy like Lenny will get it damn close, but a max effort deal might need a small tweak or two.

The harder I spin mine the harder it "locks up", if I shift at 7000 it falls back to 6000, if I shift at 7400 it falls back to 6000.

does it go any faster when you shift at 7400?

yes

badnotch wrote: nick spend $ 1000 and buy a data logger -its an awsome tool

Wont a 7531t data log

how you pullin 7400rpm with street heads Fabio ?

not sure if its got a collar that goes to drive shaft then i would say yes

KY JELLY wrote:how you pullin 7400rpm with street heads Fabio ?

what yours wouldn't?

whatbumper wrote:I know one mistake that a lot of people make in high rpm apps in a powerglide is that they fail to relieve the pump drain back and the convertor fills full with fluid and stops working correctly.

Huh? That has nothing to do with it. The pump drain back hole? If you're referring to the hole behind the front seal all that does is allow fluid that comes by the converter bushing to return to the pan. The outlet path for fluid leaving the converter is usually larger than the feed size smallest area which is at the valve body 99% of the time. And the converter should be full of fluid to function properly. No fluid... no go. Air in the converter... cavitation time and converter damage occurs.

richter69 wrote:

KY JELLY wrote:how you pullin 7400rpm with street heads Fabio ?

what yours wouldn't?

no , the 466 would run quicker shifting at 7000

KY JELLY wrote:

richter69 wrote:

KY JELLY wrote:how you pullin 7400rpm with street heads Fabio ?

what yours wouldn't?

no , the 466 would run quicker shifting at 7000

I guess my low compression over cammed 529 likes the rpm lol. The cam is still advanced a bunch as well.

deleted

The feed on the OEM pump castings most of the time is sufficiently large. The smallest point is either at the valve body itself or the plate between the halves. It does no good to open up the charge circuit to .250" when you have a much smaller area feeding it. In the OEM pump/stator tube setup all that does is lessen the strength at the passage alongside the stator tube. This can lead to a crack from the passage to the stator tube bore. Then the tube spins if it's just pressed in with no other means of securing it. In reality the only pumps that need to be tweaked are the ones that come with the smallish .125" or so OEM feed passage. The other side of the circuit includes the input shaft. It's important that the exit path via the input shaft has at least the same total area as the feed side provides. If the exit path is restricted it can cause higher pressures in the system. Depending on the pump and input shaft setup you can have issues. Bottom line is you need to keep the converter fed with enough fluid to not allow cavitation yet have the right sized path for it to exit as well. Here's a quick peek at why I tell people that they can use AN4 for the cooler lines. Is the AN6 any better? No, but it also won't hurt to use that. I've run AN4 hose/fittings on the coolers in my own stuff and never had a problem with fluid flow volume or cooling. The trans that really can cause the most grief is the TH-400 since you often need to restrict the feed passage or you'll have high pressure with the larger feed overwhelming the exit path. Thrust problems can and do occur because of that. But it's very rare to see that in a Glide due to the smaller feed area.

good info Steve

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I have not had any issues with heat or converter feed, or any thrust bearing issues for that matter with my Oldani built glide...................

Have Powerglides ever had any of the super high RPM line pressure & cavatation problems that the Griner trans brake & anti-cavatation front pump help cure on the TH-400 stuff? Or is the 'Glide front pump so different (compared to a 400) that it doesn't have a cavatation problem?

Oldani wrote:

whatbumper wrote:I know one mistake that a lot of people make in high rpm apps in a powerglide is that they fail to relieve the pump drain back and the convertor fills full with fluid and stops working correctly.

Huh? That has nothing to do with it. The pump drain back hole? If you're referring to the hole behind the front seal all that does is allow fluid that comes by the converter bushing to return to the pan. The outlet path for fluid leaving the converter is usually larger than the feed size smallest area which is at the valve body 99% of the time. And the converter should be full of fluid to function properly. No fluid... no go. Air in the converter... cavitation time and converter damage occurs.

X2

I removed all my post if it makes you feel better. I'm done.

what was deleted ? this is a great info thread

The Glides don't have the charge issue since the feed is much smaller than the TH-400 uses. And the gears in a Glide pump are a tad smaller than the TH-400 so it doesn't generate as much volume. The only thing I've seen with Glide pumps is that in ultra-high rpm situations the gerotor aftermarket pumps can actually produce far more volume than needed. This can overhwelm the pressure regulator valve. In those uses I advocate use of a standard gear style pump.