Another oilpressure fluctuation problem.

searched all the oilpressure problems from old post, and havnt felt very sure about what is the problem or could be. This is my first built bbf and havnt had it to track , so its hard to no how it will do in 1/8 mile, but dont plan on finding out till something is fixed. I can accellerate easy in second gear around 3500-4500?? hard to watch tac and oilpressure but was in the stall 5000 rpm one for under 6-8 seconds or so and pressure will drop from 75 to 50 and bounce form 40# or so. This is after driving 3000 rpm or more for a minute which probably doesnt help. Have a canton fox swap pan and pick-up with canton screen windage tray, melling HV pump, 3/8 clearance pickup to pan. Had to move little bracket back one hole to where the cutout was for on screen. Heard it done before and thought that was weard since they were the same company. Might be flexing??. 3.5 on mains and 2.5- 2.7 on rods. Done all the oilmods to block and gaskets on right and holes not blocked,roller lifters in right. running 25/50 VR valvoline, no vacuum pump. Seems like pans being sucked dry and one quart didnt seem to help. Might be crank pulling oil up, Might pull intake and put in one restrictor to see if it helps. Lifters seem fairly tight in bores so didnt sleeve. I guess the restriction from them would of been good. Can still put in restrictor pushrods i guess. also first time i seen pressure drop it had pressure around 30 while slowing down and hit brakes hard and went to 0. Oil went to front of pan. Doesnt have a crankscraper of any kind just a little like flap in back to help keep oil from climbing up. I fairly sure it would make a 1/8 pass for 6 seconds at most but dont want to be wrong I wish i would have bought a better pan , Used to smallblocks and never had a problem with oilpressure. Car try to spins so bad it takes for ever before you can really get into it so that might be why it is showing up and if you guys think it might not act up at track for shorter time then it would be fine like it is.Any advice would be appeciated..., ED

I plan on this winter pulling motor and getting better oil control but would like oppinions on what parts like a scraper , add windage deal to pan also and modify pan . I beleive limiting oil to top will help but not sure about this windage thing.

Have you tried an accusump system?

put a regular oil pump in. very few engines need a HV pump. this is cheaper than some of the other stuff to try.

Thats what my friend said that help me with the checking clearances and assembly shortblock. I would think you would loose pressure some do to loose clearances. First i am going to get i real time spand figure , its hard to count and be sure how long you are in high rpms really not fully accelerating much do to traction. It doesnt need to do anything but run 1/8 mile and some cruising. I was just trying to get a idea how it will run when found this. Wasnt expecting it to do that so it was hard to remember how long i wasted waiting to catch up with 5000 stall before i even got in it hard .

On the accusump , it probably cover up the problem at the track , I tried driving at 4,000 rpm and under 7 seconds pressure droped and fluctuated, This was after a while driving so maybe its foaming? All i know to do is start replacing parts . Thinking about first restrictor pushrods , then get rid of the slight mismatch on heads to block. Didnt see till motor was together and we both thought that 1/4 step wouldnt hurt, Cant help! Next pull engine and if nothing found wrong in pan , tighten main to 2.5-3 and rods to 2 thousands and run a stock pump. If i didnt drive this thing i would just buy a accumulater and forget it. Am i on the right track?? Thanks.., ED

Couple of questions:

1) Which Canton oil pan are you using? Drag or street/strip one?

2) Who's roller lifters are you using?

3) When you say you did block oiling mods, what did you exactly do?

Dave

Its the foxbody street pan with only a lip in back to help oil from rising. Canton screen tray. I open edges and rolled back the return holes in back of block and and sandrolled a level path to them. Added front drains. Gear lube circuit and i pulled the oil bung and smoothed the port out and rounded like pics and sandrolled the small pressure hole bigger some and rolled edges a little to help center pump. Used gaskets on pump and screen. I deburred the complete block . I have comp solid roller lifters with the edm hole. Could it be that cruising this thing first for a coulpe minutes at 2800rpm or a little more is leaving some oil on top?? I beleive the oil temp is fairly warm as engine is at 200. I got to get another fan for front of radiator. If this is the case then i need to get it to the track and check how it does fresh, just idled to warm up. The burnout was what i was afraid of and would pull too much oil from pan to make it down track before problem. It does act like its low on oil when it does it. Also with milodon caps and the bigger nuts from the main studs mounted the screen 120 thoundths lower into the pan . If it was to close to bottom wouldnt this be a problem?? Thanks, help appeciated..., ED

I think you already know your answer, but that Canton SS pan is only a 7 quart pan, and hv oil pump will suck that thing dry fairly quickly when you hit the higher rpms. Pull the pan and swap in a standard volumn pump and call it good. I run a huge 10qt truck oil pan in my mud truck with the hv pump and i'm happy I have the extra capacity for it!

with 3.25- 3.5 ,main clearance and 2.40-2.7 on rods will it lose too much pressure with a standard pump? It does hold great pressure now driving around even warm. 80lbs cold 70-75 hot and 30-35 hot idle. I want no less then 60 at high rpms.., thanks..., Ed

So what changed from earlier where it was dropping down to almost zero at idle when warm to now? My guess is still in the oil pump. The other option is the pickup tube itself may have a crack in it. When the pump is spining at the higher rpm, the HV pump is able to feed the motor keeping pressure up, but when it slows down at the lower rpms, the tube is sucking air and sort of losing suction. But I'm guessing now.

Well i telling about how it acted in two differant tests. It was after running hard then slowing down is when seen 30lbs and when i freeked out and really hit the brakesit went to 0. I get confused sometimes, sorry Didnt want to get into alot of details and make my post even larger. While driving back after test i cruised for a short time in second gear and dropped to 45 # and fluttered holding at 4000 rpm no acceleration. Its all seem like its out of oil , wasted sure about the windage thing and pressures making oil stay on top maybe?? I know i am reaching If you think a standard pump , maybe with a higher tension spring should flow adequit then i all for it .., thanks.., ED

Various components are designed for various applications. For your application, IMHO, with large clearances and rollers that oil like crazy, a standard pump is not the answer. You stated you performed the block mods, and I'm assuming you recieved your information from this site?

http://www.highflowdynamics.com/

If so, I would suggest you finish the mods, give Paul Kane a call, and get one of HFD's HV Stage I oil pump. After that, take measurements around your existing oil pan, and give Lem Evans a call for a custom oil pan and pick-up. A box stock HV oil pump and S/S Canton oil pan is not correct for your application.

Hope that helps,

Dave

I was running out of money I not planning on doing much racing if any with this motor . Just some timeslip passes and occasional cruise on nice days. I will be happy if i get it to keep oil in pan for just 6s down and a maybe 6 for slowdown. If Adding restrictor pushrods and a little burnout get me down the 1/8 a couple passes without hurting anything then i would be a happy camper. I will see if i can borrow a accumulater. Pulling engine is a all winter job for me lol. I have a gauge mounted on cowl so i would watch it constantly. I will change everthing i can this winter. Sound doable?? thanks.., ED

Big long smoky burnouts are overrated. One quick burp to get them clean and dry is all you really need. Install the restrictor in the drivers side lifter gallery, acquire a 3 quart accumulator, Shut it off at the finish line. After that it is your personal decision. take a chance and push a rod through the side of the block or wait till next year to get the bragging rights.

If you are sucking air either through a cracked pickup or lack of oil in the pan you will eventually loose some bearings there is no way to stop that.

dkp

I plan on restricting oil to top first. Most likely with some restrictor pushrods. I am going to check to to see just how much oil is going to top with a drill turning pump. I pulled apart the filter and it was clean. I guess when it takes alot of yrs to build something your overly worried about it blowing up so its hard tolnow if your overreacting. I was just sure someone went through the same thing and trying to figure out without spending extra $ and time. I would only have me to blame if it blows. By the way its more of a self pride thing then bragging rights. Heck I am running 93 octane on a small stroker so et wasnt the go. Thanks for everyones help.., ED

Thanks to a good member here he has help me get it to hold pressure by adding a quart and a half of oil. Thats about how much is other places. I am going to try to get a better solution this winter, thanks for all your help ED