Its never good

Well the 460's 3.85" cranks is a good strong OEM unit. You can offset grind it to chebbie specs and stroke it. So maybe that's why we run cast cranks, ours are stronger right from the gitgo and a lot of aftermarket stroker cranks for us are good and quality made. Just a question, has anyone tried running a billet aluminum crank in a BBF? I know where to get one.

EDIT-Most of the chevy parts out there are cheaper and easier to find than ford parts. So that could be it, but maybe it has to do with the low deck height or poor design of the chevy motor. I don't know.

bb429power wrote:Well the 460's 3.85" cranks is a good strong OEM unit. You can offset grind it to chebbie specs and stroke it. So maybe that's why we run cast cranks, ours are stronger right from the gitgo and a lot of aftermarket stroker cranks for us are good and quality made. Just a question, has anyone tried running a billet aluminum crank in a BBF? I know where to get one.

Just make sure you get the plastic rods to go with it.

IDT-572 wrote:

bb429power wrote:Well the 460's 3.85" cranks is a good strong OEM unit. You can offset grind it to chebbie specs and stroke it. So maybe that's why we run cast cranks, ours are stronger right from the gitgo and a lot of aftermarket stroker cranks for us are good and quality made. Just a question, has anyone tried running a billet aluminum crank in a BBF? I know where to get one.

Just make sure you get the plastic rods to go with it.

Oh dang I forgot about those. Good call would have been screwed if you didn't remind me. So what kind of pistons should I get? Cedar or pine? I think an aluminum crank in a BBF would just rip apart to shreds without any hesitation. I don't know what billet cranks can be run in at all, I've heard of them being put into ricers before but dose ain't nuttin like er ferds.

bb429power wrote:

IDT-572 wrote:

bb429power wrote:Well the 460's 3.85" cranks is a good strong OEM unit. You can offset grind it to chebbie specs and stroke it. So maybe that's why we run cast cranks, ours are stronger right from the gitgo and a lot of aftermarket stroker cranks for us are good and quality made. Just a question, has anyone tried running a billet aluminum crank in a BBF? I know where to get one.

Just make sure you get the plastic rods to go with it.

Oh dang I forgot about those. Good call would have been screwed if you didn't remind me. So what kind of pistons should I get? Cedar or pine? I think an aluminum crank in a BBF would just rip apart to shreds without any hesitation. I don't know what billet cranks can be run in at all, I've heard of them being put into ricers before but dose ain't nuttin like er ferds.

Unobtainium is the best material I have found in the strength to weight department.

IDT-572 wrote:

bb429power wrote:

IDT-572 wrote:

bb429power wrote:Well the 460's 3.85" cranks is a good strong OEM unit. You can offset grind it to chebbie specs and stroke it. So maybe that's why we run cast cranks, ours are stronger right from the gitgo and a lot of aftermarket stroker cranks for us are good and quality made. Just a question, has anyone tried running a billet aluminum crank in a BBF? I know where to get one.

Just make sure you get the plastic rods to go with it.

Oh dang I forgot about those. Good call would have been screwed if you didn't remind me. So what kind of pistons should I get? Cedar or pine? I think an aluminum crank in a BBF would just rip apart to shreds without any hesitation. I don't know what billet cranks can be run in at all, I've heard of them being put into ricers before but dose ain't nuttin like er ferds.

Unobtainium is the best material I have found in the strength to weight department.

I'm in an auto class (not to learn, just to make the day more enjoyable) and there was a question on our test.

What material are pistons made of?
A Unobtanium
B cast steel
C cast aluminum
D iron
It wouldn't suprise me if some of the people in the class chose A. I think this one kid did, him and his friend are seniors and total morons. The one said on a test "after draining the coolant put new oil in" or something like that. He got a a question wrong on a tool test where the teacher held up a funnel and asked us what it was. MORONS!

racerk_2000 wrote:Man, sorry to see that happen to you. How fast were you running on the motor?

5.95 on motor

dr's wife racing wrote:

racerk_2000 wrote:Man, sorry to see that happen to you. How fast were you running on the motor?

5.95 on motor

dfree383 wrote:It happend to find the weakest point first and in that crank it was the first throw. Caused by Poor metalurgy? poor / thin casting in that area? Inclusions / porosity in the metal? Bad machining? to tight of fillets? Detonation? Could have been dropped in shipping?

It be interesting to get all of the crank and take it in and Magnafiux and xray it. I'd be willing to be their are cracks in the other throws.

The bearings looked good including the 1/2 of the front main that was laying on the track,it was mashed a little on one edge,I think I ran over it. the top 1/2 was still in what was left of the front main saddle and looked like it could be reused.All of the bearings looked good It had about 20 runs on it since it was freshened.The crank cheked good at that time but I did not have it magged[hind sight].O ne thing that I did not mention is that I have raced with this paticular block since 1996 I ran it a long time as a high compression 466 then as a low compresson Nos 466 then as a 514.That block had about a million pass's on it.I don't keep up with the # of pass's as close as I shold any more.I rember at one point when it was a 466 it had over 400 inbetween rebuilds.
That said I agree with Freelander it was a crank failure.I think the main cause was I race on a tight budget and did not have as good of parts in it as I should have to run it like I was. Your right I Beat on it like a rented mule almost every time I took it out.But it was named George' after George Forman by David Cole a long time ago.It was old,slow,ugly and threw up sometimes but always come out swinging and could go a few rounds. May it RIP.
I thing it would be intresting to see the thing x rayed.It's nothing bet scrap now I don't anyone around here to do that any ny of you know anyone?
I finally saw why everyone was talking about the bearings in the photo of the front of the crank and balancer that is the back of the main bearing I laid it back on the crank.That is why it looks dark.

Xray would be a little tough, I'm not working in a shop right now and don't have the connections here to get any done (for the right price). Most machine shops can mag it and its cheap.

Did you get the front main and block pieces back? What do they look like?

I just went over the pictures again. I spotted this, which I don't know if maybe this happened from the harmonic balancer falling out of the engine. But it looks like the part where the spacer is against the timing gear is bent a little bit.

That is actualy what is left of the front seal.It doesn't show up good in the photo.
I thought of a friend who works as a stuuct. eng. for a company that builds military spec trailors. He might have access,and he works just a few miles from our office.

I see the seal and all, but what I was talking about was it looked bent roughly at that point. The spacer and dampener doesn't looks parellel with the rest of it. IMO, it looks that way. I don't know if you guys see what I mean, it could be my over analysing fooling my eyes.

I'd think as violent as everything came apart that would have occoured after the crank failure. That much bend would have been odvious just setting the timing IMO

My observations:
1] The whole of the crank is cast.
2] The snout is cast and long.
3] The damper was somewhere between not very and non-functional .
4] At some point with all of the above and any tune-up issues the crank cracked.......then it broke on that pass i.m.o.

Lem Evans wrote:My observations:
1] The whole of the crank is cast.
2] The snout is cast and long.
3] The damper was somewhere between not very and non-functional .
4] At some point with all of the above and any tune-up issues the crank cracked.......then it broke on that pass i.m.o.

You nailed it aunt Millie..................