28x10.5 SS Guys...What are you 60 footing?

Being this deal only makes 440 ftlbs it aint gonna tear up much.............and considering the amount of money this car has won over the years I think I'll leave um on.................

richter69 wrote:Being this deal only makes 440 ftlbs it aint gonna tear up much.............and considering the amount of money this car has won over the years I think I'll leave um on.................

with that big M5 tuneup it might just flip over backwards

The 440 was a M5 tune up..........306 " n/a........ No BB torque here lol.

besides...M5 is a hp maker, not so much for torque.

Well got my car to go a 1.30 60ft on 26x8.5 hoosiers S/S n/a BBF. Went 5.46 @ 130 so I think there is more in it I just don't know were to start. All UPR stuff, upper and lower S boxes with doubles in the rear and singles up front with 2" of travel in the front. 12" 200lb coilover rear spring in the stock location and 12" 150lb up front and 54.4% front weight. A far cry from my hot street car that the drivetrain was in last year but i'm only a .11 off of the old car which would go 1.24 60ft on the back tire. Basically I have 4 clean passes on the car since it was built so I can't complain but this I/C stuff and other things is confusing!! Old car was a backhalf ladderbar which was pretty simple!!!!!

Also the are taking 100lbs off my combo for next year and it all will have to come out the back unless I find some extra funds to have LSM put my Eliminator block on a diet!!

mikep wrote:Well got my car to go a 1.30 60ft on 26x8.5 hoosiers S/S n/a BBF. Went 5.46 @ 130 so I think there is more in it I just don't know were to start. All UPR stuff, upper and lower S boxes with doubles in the rear and singles up front with 2" of travel in the front. 12" 200lb coilover rear spring in the stock location and 12" 150lb up front and 54.4% front weight. A far cry from my hot street car that the drivetrain was in last year but i'm only a .11 off of the old car which would go 1.24 60ft on the back tire. Basically I have 4 clean passes on the car since it was built so I can't complain but this I/C stuff and other things is confusing!! Old car was a backhalf ladderbar which was pretty simple!!!!!

Also the are taking 100lbs off my combo for next year and it all will have to come out the back unless I find some extra funds to have LSM put my Eliminator block on a diet!!

I don't think I've ever heard of 200lb springs on the rear of a fox boy before unless it was road race.

They are not on the shocks, they are mounted in the stock location on the lower control arm.

Mike what is the class record on an 8.5" deal .....thats freakin impressive sir

I believe it's 5.32. MPH is 137! Oh and our DA never gets below 2000 ft and I ran that time when it was 3800ft.

mikep wrote:Well got my car to go a 1.30 60ft on 26x8.5 hoosiers S/S n/a BBF. Went 5.46 @ 130 so I think there is more in it I just don't know were to start. All UPR stuff, upper and lower S boxes with doubles in the rear and singles up front with 2" of travel in the front. 12" 200lb coilover rear spring in the stock location and 12" 150lb up front and 54.4% front weight. A far cry from my hot street car that the drivetrain was in last year but i'm only a .11 off of the old car which would go 1.24 60ft on the back tire. Basically I have 4 clean passes on the car since it was built so I can't complain but this I/C stuff and other things is confusing!! Old car was a backhalf ladderbar which was pretty simple!!!!!

Also the are taking 100lbs off my combo for next year and it all will have to come out the back unless I find some extra funds to have LSM put my Eliminator block on a diet!!

An aluminum block would fix that Mike..........

mikep wrote:They are not on the shocks, they are mounted in the stock location on the lower control arm.

that changes everything. times are pretty impressive.

mikep wrote:They are not on the shocks, they are mounted in the stock location on the lower control arm.

I would say call Wolfe because that is how his car is set up but he will not help you unless you buy something.

Nevs wrote:

mikep wrote:Well got my car to go a 1.30 60ft on 26x8.5 hoosiers S/S n/a BBF. Went 5.46 @ 130 so I think there is more in it I just don't know were to start. All UPR stuff, upper and lower S boxes with doubles in the rear and singles up front with 2" of travel in the front. 12" 200lb coilover rear spring in the stock location and 12" 150lb up front and 54.4% front weight. A far cry from my hot street car that the drivetrain was in last year but i'm only a .11 off of the old car which would go 1.24 60ft on the back tire. Basically I have 4 clean passes on the car since it was built so I can't complain but this I/C stuff and other things is confusing!! Old car was a backhalf ladderbar which was pretty simple!!!!!

Also the are taking 100lbs off my combo for next year and it all will have to come out the back unless I find some extra funds to have LSM put my Eliminator block on a diet!!

An aluminum block would fix that Mike..........

Well it's would probably be a wash considering a 20-30hp lose going to aluminum from cast iron vs. the weight up front.

whatbumper wrote:

mikep wrote:They are not on the shocks, they are mounted in the stock location on the lower control arm.

I would say call Wolfe because that is how his car is set up but he will not help you unless you buy something.

My problem is that most of these S/S cars are radials and no one runs a S/S, N/A 8.5 slick car

mikep wrote:

Nevs wrote:

mikep wrote:Well got my car to go a 1.30 60ft on 26x8.5 hoosiers S/S n/a BBF. Went 5.46 @ 130 so I think there is more in it I just don't know were to start. All UPR stuff, upper and lower S boxes with doubles in the rear and singles up front with 2" of travel in the front. 12" 200lb coilover rear spring in the stock location and 12" 150lb up front and 54.4% front weight. A far cry from my hot street car that the drivetrain was in last year but i'm only a .11 off of the old car which would go 1.24 60ft on the back tire. Basically I have 4 clean passes on the car since it was built so I can't complain but this I/C stuff and other things is confusing!! Old car was a backhalf ladderbar which was pretty simple!!!!!

Also the are taking 100lbs off my combo for next year and it all will have to come out the back unless I find some extra funds to have LSM put my Eliminator block on a diet!!

An aluminum block would fix that Mike..........

Well it's would probably be a wash considering a 20-30hp lose going to aluminum from cast iron vs. the weight up front.

Have you actually seen that much loss on the dyno? When we ran the Pro 5.0 car with the 12.00" deck block, we had nothing to compare it to. Just curious......

mikep wrote:

whatbumper wrote:

mikep wrote:They are not on the shocks, they are mounted in the stock location on the lower control arm.

I would say call Wolfe because that is how his car is set up but he will not help you unless you buy something.

My problem is that most of these S/S cars are radials and no one runs a S/S, N/A 8.5 slick car

they have a nitrous customer in south texas in the teens on 8.5's so I think you would be okay with talking with them.

Well talked to Dave at TRZ and he said I've never understood people running the 350 # springs back there. We've run 125's through 200's and had good luck with them (in the stock location on top of the rear lower control arm) as long as the car has double adj. shocks on it.

mikep wrote:Well talked to Dave at TRZ and he said I've never understood people running the 350 # springs back there. We've run 125's through 200's and had good luck with them (in the stock location on top of the rear lower control arm) as long as the car has double adj. shocks on it.

I've ran them on a road race car but I wouldn't think that heavy spring would transfer very well at all.

What tire pressure are you guys running with the 28 X 10.5 stiff tires? I am going to run the 275 Vs 28 X 10.5 class at South Georgia and have never ran these tires before. The car weighs 3050. We have been 4.98 on 29.5 X 10.5 with 60 foot times averaging from 1.22 to 1.24.

jmayabb wrote:What tire pressure are you guys running with the 28 X 10.5 stiff tires? I am going to run the 275 Vs 28 X 10.5 class at South Georgia and have never ran these tires before. The car weighs 3050. We have been 4.98 on 29.5 X 10.5 with 60 foot times averaging from 1.22 to 1.24.

start with what you are using now and you might have to work up from there.

Man I just don't get it! I just talked to someone else and they are running a 300lb 12" spring in the stock location and goes low 1.20s Why can't we all agree on one spring rate so it would make it easier on me

mikep wrote:Man I just don't get it! I just talked to someone else and they are running a 300lb 12" spring in the stock location and goes low 1.20s Why can't we all agree on one spring rate so it would make it easier on me

same reason we all don't run the same engine combo's

Well Wolfe says to run a 375lb 10" spring so I give up!

mikep wrote:Well Wolfe says to run a 375lb 10" spring so I give up!

If that is what he says to do, DO IT!!! He just went 1.16 sixty foot on a 315 DR with his springs on the control arms. 4.40 @ 177

Well he also said that was at his weight of 3400 lbs so I ordered some 300s since my car will weigh 3050 next time out. There is a tnt in 2 weeks so I'm going to bring multiple sets of springs and go play. I will let you know what happens.

Well the TNT didn't go very well!!! Went to start the car and the starter which sounded crappy last time I took it out spun the gear off of it..
So we push it out of the trailer and jack it up and pull the starter out and the clip that holds the gear on was missing and the gear just fell off. So I have a spare starter and started putting it in and water starts dripping on my face out of the collector. Thinking it was just condensate I took the radiator cap off to verify there was still water in it and whoosh the radiator was pressurized from just the engine turning over so I was done.

I drove 5 hours total to pull my starter out LOL!!!! I guess I'll be pulling it apart and changing the head gasket I hope!!!