who runs 6049scj heads on here?

stanggt July 25th 2011, 12:27 pm

I guess I should have done a little more research before I bought these heads. Sounds like I may have to cut new valve releif into pistons. My engine is still in car, is there a jig or something to use to do this? who out there has done this. I had to open the intake releif's on my ford small block when I went to bigger valves but that wasnt to hard just to lengthen those. Whats the process? Thanks Sad

rmcomprandy July 25th 2011, 4:38 pm

You'll need to use one of your new heads for a jig. Get a shop vacuum. Remove the intake valves from one head. Rent or buy the correct size cutter from ISKY. Put the cutter into one intake guide and mount the head with two corresponding bolts then cut a notch to you intended depth into one piston. Mount the head on the other side and do the same on each side; (you'll need to rotate the engine to get the piston to be cut, at Top Dead Center).
Vacuum all the chips each time you remove the head.
Put the cutter into the next intake guide and continue for the rest of the cylinders.

OR ... remove the rods and pistons from the block and send the pistons somewhere to be notched.

stanggt July 25th 2011, 4:50 pm

sounds like alot of fun either way. NOT. Mad

thanks for info

rmcomprandy wrote:You'll need to use one of your new heads for a jig. Get a shop vacuum. Remove the intake valves from one head. Rent or buy the correct size cutter from ISKY. Put the cutter into one intake guide and mount the head with two corresponding bolts then cut a notch to you intended depth into one piston. Mount the head on the other side and do the same on each side; (you'll need to rotate the engine to get the piston to be cut, at Top Dead Center).
Vacuum all the chips each time you remove the head.
Put the cutter into the next intake guide and continue for the rest of the cylinders.

OR ... remove the rods and pistons from the block and send the pistons somewhere to be notched.

stanggt July 25th 2011, 5:45 pm

hey rmcomprandy, did you have to do your exaust releif also or just intake? That actually doesnt sound all that bad using those tools from isky, I ckd into that, thats what I am going to do. Thanks for that info, very usefull

Lem Evans July 25th 2011, 5:51 pm

You will not need an exh. relief.

KY JELLY July 25th 2011, 5:58 pm

one very important thing you need to verify your pistons have enough meat to cut out

stanggt July 25th 2011, 6:02 pm

will do, again thanks for all input,i was pullin what hair I have, out and bought me a bottle of Jack to help me figure this out.lol Laughing

Lem Evans July 25th 2011, 6:08 pm

KY JELLY wrote:one very important thing you need to verify your pistons have enough meat to cut out

Pork or beef ?

KY JELLY July 25th 2011, 6:12 pm

Lem Evans wrote:
KY JELLY wrote:one very important thing you need to verify your pistons have enough meat to cut out

Pork or beef ?

it depends on if its a machinist or butcher with his uncle jack's help doing the cutting Smile

Lem Evans July 25th 2011, 6:32 pm

I see it's jackrabbit meat tongue

Lem Evans July 25th 2011, 6:44 pm

KY's point about not getting the piston's deck too thin is spot on. Here is the good news.....the relief depth for the SCJ/P51 stuff does not have to be near as deep as the production cyl. head relief.

rmcomprandy July 25th 2011, 7:18 pm

Lem Evans wrote:KY's point about not getting the piston's deck too thin is spot on. Here is the good news.....the relief depth for the SCJ/P51 stuff does not have to be near as deep as the production cyl. head relief.

A relief of .150" deep will clear everything except maybe an "all out, very high lift race roller" cam and I have never seen a B.B. Ford piston yet which wouldn't accept that much notch in the SCJ position.

Lem Evans July 25th 2011, 7:28 pm

rmcomprandy wrote:
Lem Evans wrote:KY's point about not getting the piston's deck too thin is spot on. Here is the good news.....the relief depth for the SCJ/P51 stuff does not have to be near as deep as the production cyl. head relief.

A relief of .150" deep will clear everything except maybe an "all out, very high lift race roller" cam and I have never seen a B.B. Ford piston yet which wouldn't accept that much notch in the SCJ position.

Yep, KY's intake lobe is "full race" Smile

.......the intake relief is .195" deep and has more v.p. than it has to have. .125" [1/8"] will cover most SCJ cammed engines.

KY JELLY July 25th 2011, 7:53 pm

All I was meaning was its good idea to check something before cutting it we do not have any idea what kind of piston he has. I was not meaning to be negative to anything you guys had stated.

I have been the victim of a "too thin" valve relief area in the past it was not a scj modification , but to make a long story short I had a fuel explosion in the oil pan blew one valve cover completely off shattered it. The machine shop cut the valve relief too thin I did not check it and should have I guess, but I trusted them to do that and they did not check it .020 thick after the fact Sad

rmcomprandy July 25th 2011, 8:29 pm

KY JELLY wrote:All I was meaning was its good idea to check something before cutting it we do not have any idea what kind of piston he has. I was not meaning to be negative to anything you guys had stated.

I have been the victim of a "too thin" valve relief area in the past it was not a scj modification , but to make a long story short I had a fuel explosion in the oil pan blew one valve cover completely off shattered it. The machine shop cut the valve relief too thin I did not check it and should have I guess, but I trusted them to do that and they did not check it .020 thick after the fact

I think we both know what you meant and that is a good thing when not being almost intimatly familiar with the situation, LOL..
With this PARTICULAR application, the SCJ notch is so far out near the outer diameter of the piston where it is pretty thick because of the ring land, one would need to go way beyond what is needed to break through. How far down the piston the ring groove is located would probably be the closest point.

stanggt July 25th 2011, 9:03 pm

thanks again for all your help on this situation. I will ck the VOTC first and do the calculations and cut accordingly to get proper vpc. I really appreciate you guys. I will call you Lem when I get pushrod lengths and get those from ya.

stanggt July 26th 2011, 12:17 pm

just got off phone with Isky and the notcher I need is back orderd 2-3 weeks! Thats just lovely. Bout ready to push car into front garage and forget it.

69F100 July 26th 2011, 1:48 pm

I know how you fill been trying almost a month to get to the track to try this alky setup out.Mother Nature don't want to know she keeps sending rain every weekend.The friday night track is closed this weekend so maybe it want rain this saturday night and I will try the other track it 65 miles away hate to get there and it rain tnt out.But I will have to wait in see got to get the carb back to it's owner wasn't planning to keep it this long so I know alittle how you fill.

schmitty July 26th 2011, 4:45 pm

You could get with Uncle Charlie and send them to him, it might be faster if he's not too busy. His handle on here is c.evans.

richter69 July 26th 2011, 4:58 pm

drag it to ok Jim, no rainouts here all season...and I bet we dont have any for the rest of it.....if you can stand the 110+ heat lol.

stanggt July 26th 2011, 5:10 pm

I got a hold of Lindy Tools today and he makes them when orderd , looks like a nice peice, talked with him for 1/2 hour, he will send it out to me by Friday. I should have it first part of next week and then I will be happy again. Smile

stanggt August 1st 2011, 1:23 pm

rmcomprandy wrote:
Lem Evans wrote:KY's point about not getting the piston's deck too thin is spot on. Here is the good news.....the relief depth for the SCJ/P51 stuff does not have to be near as deep as the production cyl. head relief.

A relief of .150" deep will clear everything except maybe an "all out, very high lift race roller" cam and I have never seen a B.B. Ford piston yet which wouldn't accept that much notch in the SCJ position.

So if I cut head from where the cutter hits the head and then go down 150 I will be good?

rmcomprandy August 1st 2011, 5:23 pm

The cutter shouldn't hit the head.

stanggt August 1st 2011, 5:49 pm

rmcomprandy wrote:The cutter shouldn't hit the head.

sorry,I ment top of piston, down .150 i should be good. Ya,lol, dont want it to hit the head.

rmcomprandy August 2nd 2011, 7:38 pm

stanggt wrote:
rmcomprandy wrote:The cutter shouldn't hit the head.
sorry,I ment top of piston, down .150 i should be good. Ya,lol, dont want it to hit the head.

Just be sure the piston STAYS at top dead center while you are doing the cutting; (.150" will work fine).

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