1995 F150 pro Street project thread

[HorsinAround]

Thought I'd start a thread on the project I've started on. Here are a few pictures to start.

Truck when I brought it home.


Stripped to the frame.



During Sandblasting.



Primed and waiting for Chassis coat.

[HorsinAround]

The front has already been converted to 5x4.5 and the rear axle will be replaced with an 8.8 out of an Explorer and will be 4 linked. Front coils will be gone as soon as I get the brackets back that I drew up. I sent the drawings to a friend with a CNC plasma cutter.

[61coon]

Looks like you got a good start on it. I know you said it's gonna be a pro street truck,but what's your plans for the build? Engine,trans,and such?

[IDT-572]

Looks like you got a good start on it. I know you said it's gonna it's gonna be a pro street truck,but what's your plans for the build? Engine,trans,and such?

X2

[HorsinAround]

Well it is evolving I guess is the best way to say it lol. Started out as a planned 501 on race gas, then I was offered a deal that with my crank would make it a 521 on alcohol. Intake will either be a mafia or a tunnel ram. I have been offered 2 950's already alcohol prepped for $500, but I'm trying for a better price since they will need gone through. The guy also has a on offy tunnel ram but I haven't seen him yet to get a price out of him on it.
As I said earlier the rear end is an 8,8 from an explorer that will have the yukon c clip eliminator/axle kit and 4.10 gears with a spool. Trans will be a braked C6 and I'm hoping to be able to swing having it rollerized or finding a deal on one.
It will have a 12 pt cage in it and will be lightened considerably. I already have a fiberglass front bumper and wiper cowl and am hoping to order the doors and hood in april or may. Will also build an aluminum core support.

Does anyone have a thought on what I should do with the bed? Should I just tub it or should I cut the inner structure out and just have a skeleton frame to hold the sides? I kind've like the look with a tailgate (skeletonized of course) with an aluminum cover over the bed, but that is unnecessary weight.

[schmitty]

F250 Mike knows how to rollerize a C6, you should talk to him about getting it done.

[HorsinAround]

Here is where the project is at right now.
Rear End after raising the rear spring hanger and removing the spring pack. This was done to lower the rear as much as possible, before swaping in the narrowed axle.


Front end when I turned out the lights today. Stock coil buckets are off, and lower spring mount and I beam bolt removed. Have the new upper and lower coil over shock mounts fabricated and should have them installed next week.


Ok, I've been kicking around a paint scheme for the truck (yea, I know, its early to be thinking about this. lol. Here is the truck color now.


And this is the paint on my bike. It is called candy lime green. I'm wondering how the truck would look with the green on the front end. Any opinions?

[HorsinAround]

Here is what I came up with for the front coil overs.

[bigblok2000ranger]

Looks good, maybe a little heavier duty than needed though lol.

[schmitty]

Looking good Alan. I kind of like that green, but I'm not sure how it would look on the truck. There almost needs to be an accent color with it IMO. White, black or a gold of some kind on the bottom.

[HorsinAround]

Looks good, maybe a little heavier duty than needed though lol.

Looking good Alan. I kind of like that green, but I'm not sure how it would look on the truck. There almost needs to be an accent color with it IMO. White, black or a gold of some kind on the bottom.

BBranger, probably so, that's the truck puller in me coming out. There we build heavy.. lol I made the upper brackets out of 3/8" lower is 1/4"

Rob, I was thinking of blending the green, black and maybe an off white accent stripe. not sure yet.

[jeffgfg]

If you want to lower the rear more just put the axle on top of the springs. You might have to notch the frame but it will drop the rear about 6" or so. It's pretty easy you just need to flip the axle mounting pad. Kool project!

[Copperhead]

How's this green grab ya,..........with a little black?

[HorsinAround]

If you want to lower the rear more just put the axle on top of the springs. You might have to notch the frame but it will drop the rear about 6" or so. It's pretty easy you just need to flip the axle mounting pad. Kool project!

It will actually have a 4 link set up. I am leaving the spring on to square the new axle to frame. I do think that I will try setting the new axle on top and see how it looks.

How's this green grab ya,..........with a little black?

I like it. I am thinking of a non traditional 2 or 3 tone where that one is what I call traditional or oem in that the upper/lower scheme. But we'll see when I am to the point of taking it to a painter.

[HorsinAround]

Got a little done over the weekend. Now that I have a friends truck done, I can get back on my junk..

[bigblok2000ranger]

Alan you should pick up a manual steering box for an 80's Ranger, and lose that heavy power unit. Its a direct swap too.

[Copperhead]

Looking good Alan.

What the specs on the front wheels? Brand, size, bolt pattern?

[HorsinAround]

Alan you should pick up a manual steering box for an 80's Ranger, and lose that heavy power unit. Its a direct swap too.

Funny you should mention that. I just spent an hour or so looking for a p/s pump from an early 90's Toyota MR2 to go with this p/s box. The MR2 pump is electric/hydro. But now that I see your post Eric, I'll have to check that out as I was looking at getting a new gear box since this one has 170,000 miles on it and is a little loose. Any idea how much weight difference there is? Also what years should I look for?

Looking good Alan.

What the specs on the front wheels? Brand, size, bolt pattern?

The wheels are Summit Racing Warrior R/T 5 on 4 1/2. Tires are a wore out set of M/T Et fronts 27.5x4.5/15.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-571-5465ps

[Copperhead]

Alan,......
Check out this thread for any info you need.

http://www.nloc.net/vbforum/gen-1-lightnings/144373-manual-steering.html



FWIW,
The Pitman Arm is the tough thing to find, as the splines are a lot different and they're rare.

If you don't have any luck finding one, I do have one that will work. I'd be willing to sell it,...BUT it might need to be modified, depending on the overall suspension height.

The arm was designed for a 4x4 with a 3" lift. I bought it when I was searching around for one with the intent of either cutting & re-welding it, or heat it and bend it to fit. But after looking at it, you might be able to get by without doing either.

It's still new in the box and I'd let it go for cheap if you need it.

[HorsinAround]

Located a manual gear box and pitman arm from a Ranger this morning. I'll pick it up Friday and go from there. Keith I'll let you know on that drop unit once I get the new gear box installed.

Last night I got the Explorer rear end installed on the factory springs. Next I'll get the BBF motor mounts installed so I can measure for an oil pan, then I'll start on the 4 link installation. Still have to weld the tubes to the center section and order the c clip eliminator and aftermarket axles yet.

[Copperhead]

Located a manual gear box and pitman arm from a Ranger this morning. I'll pick it up Friday and go from there. Keith I'll let you know on that drop unit once I get the new gear box installed.

Good find Alan.

Those things are as harder to find than Hen's teeth.

Still have to weld the tubes to the center section and order the c clip eliminator and aftermarket axles yet.

I'm not 100% positive on the Explorer rear-ends, but I know for certain they don't make c-clip eliminators for the standard 8.8" truck rear end. They're different than what you find in most Mustangs and others.

I wanted new axles, so I went ahead and welded 9" housing ends on my factory 8.8" housing.

[HorsinAround]

Yukon Gear makes a deal specifically for the Explorer disc brake rear end. http://www.yukongear.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=10255

Yea, I was pretty excited about the Ranger find. gear box and pitman arm for $50.

[Copperhead]

I was pretty excited about the Ranger find. gear box and pitman arm for $50.

You should be, as that's a great find and a good deal.

Yukon Gear makes a deal specifically for the Explorer disc brake rear end. http://www.yukongear.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=10255

Hmm,......that's interesting,....

What the width of the Explorer rear compared to your stock one?

Any offset differences?

[HorsinAround]

I was pretty excited about the Ranger find. gear box and pitman arm for $50.

You should be, as that's a great find and a good deal.

Yukon Gear makes a deal specifically for the Explorer disc brake rear end. http://www.yukongear.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=10255

Hmm,......that's interesting,....

What the width of the Explorer rear compared to your stock one?

Any offset differences?

Explorer axle is 6 inches narrower. With the Yukon deal installed it will be 4 1/2" narrower. As for the offset, well, I have some more measuring to do tonight. I tacked the spring pads using the measurements from the center section on the original 8.8 and the locating pins fit perfectly (Got one right for a change lol) Then when I went to install the u bolts I noticed a slight difference left to right, so out came the measuring tape and I discovered that while my measurements and installation of the pads were spot on, the right tube is 1 inch shorter, so when I locate the brackets for the 4 link, I will shift the axle 1/2 inch to the pass. side to true it up. (only after alot more measuring..)

[f250mike]

Your moving right along Alan!!
I'm going to hunt down a ranger steering box as one of my winter projects.

How's the c6 build going? If you can't find reasonable pricing for machining to rollerize, let me know. I'll talk to the boss and see if I can do some off the clock machining.

mike

[Sponsored content]