starting high comp. engine

We got the jegs maxi starter suppose to be good up to 18to1.

fatal addiction wrote:164 tooth glide trans/ w1/2" rear motor plate. I looked around but couldn't find a 184 tooth for auto trans?

Don't think it applies with a glide, Barney had some issues last year and had Kieth cut him a new block to trans plate and resolved his issues.

fatal addiction wrote:One more question is it worth the money to switch to 16volt? My system is 12volt.. thanks again

I used to run 16v. I did like it.

Then I bought a good starter and switched back to 12v. It's a lot easier to get a good 12v battery locally if you have a failure, and all batteries will fail at the worst time.

As mentioned before, make sure your cables are up to snuff... All of my main power cables on the Banana are 0, or 00... Even at the starter... And everything that's wired inside the cab is 10ga. The inside wiring probably a little overkill, but I don't have any issues... Or didn't when it was running...

richter69 wrote:you bet your ass it is.....

Tie breaker i will stick with the 16 love it

I see the 16 advertised now, never tryed it. I have always got the engine turning over, then hit the ignition, works for me....good luck..

the tilton starters have worked very well for me with pretty large high compression motors with no retard needed other than the one pushing the button lol

brad wrote:the tilton starters have worked very well for me with pretty large high compression motors with no retard needed other than the one pushing the button lol

I ran through this problem and I will just tell you what fixed my problem, there were a couple of items.

1) My starter depth was wrong. I drilled out the bottom hole for the starter on the bell housing to the next size up, then when I tighten the bolt I push the starter towards the flex plate, this moved the starter closer to the flexplate by maybe 1/8th of an inch, no more kick back. Trans was a power glide, ATI flex plate, starter is the high torque summit one. Engine is 16:1 compression, valve springs have over 1,000lbs pressure open.

2) Kickback fixed, but still hard to start. Ignition box was f'd up, switched to a new MSD 7AL2 Plus, problem solved, starts. This is when I first got the car running over 2 years ago. I have a crank trigger, however, locked out distributor. Starts fine at 30 degrees total, rotor phase also checked and correct.

Since then I ran into another problem when the car was cold (like 40 degrees outside) but fixed that with a heater--which doesn't apply to this thread.

I was having problems starting my mud bogger with 15 to 1 comp.. For another reason I switched from a MSD ign. to a GM type single wire. Fixed the starting problem and got rid of a lot of wire.