big block / motor plat

Ok my car is at a chassis shop what is a good height to put the motor with motor plat  / crank center line
Thanks Dan

A qualified chassis shop should be able to handle all that for you...

MustangDan wrote:Ok my car is at a chassis shop what is a good height to put the motor with motor plat  / crank center line
Thanks Dan

 
It's all about getting the engine and oil pan to clear stuff with a fox platform.
 

^^^ JUST ASKING MAN

Don't get excited.....the rack etc. has got to jive with the typical 5" pan for the fox bbf pan.

Chassis section. Search my posts. Rack and headers don't need to be a concern headers can be made to exit up and racks can be custom made as well

Full chassis car?? Shoot for under 10.5-11". If you can get it at 10", you'll be good, but that usually puts the pan pretty low.

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Lots of good tips already. My input would be to hang a mock-up engine with oil pan, headers and transmission case all bolted together in the car to help determine the exact best location. It is usually better to do this if you plan to use off the shelf headers and pan. Otherwise, you may end up making custom parts or modifying.
Using the trans case lets the builder plan the driveline length and angles too.
Make sure to plan enough clearance to make transmission removal easy, for future routine maintenance.
Keith

Dan,
I think he meant 10" from the ground to crank centerline. That is relatively normal in a full tube chassis car in some applications.
Keith

That's what I thought after I posted that lol 
I also have 10.5 tires 
So would 13 be to hi

The guys just use to sbc and putting motors up hi for weight transfer and I don't think I need mine up hi in car  would think car would be to violent of a take off

MustangDan wrote:The guys just use to sbc and putting motors up hi for weight transfer and I don't think I need mine up hi in car  would think car would be to violent of a take off

It is going to be violent regardless of crank centerline..an inch or 2 one way or another. If the firewall is still in the car....it kind of limits height.
Also, back to my comments about headers and pan fit....

I've never measured my crank centreline off the floor but my FRPP swap pan is a hair away from my manual rack. I have a Comp Eng Front plate and I just bought a mid plate from Keith so that is my next project. I'll use an empty block/heads and gutted C6 trans for mockup. My tunnel was altered for a glide with a Ultrabell but I'm considering modding it some more to make pulling the C6 without touching the engine a reality. Now would be the time to do it. I have limiters that go from the block to the k-member to keep the front plate from flexing fore and aft.

Yeah...
A little extra planning and work during fabrication time sure makes it easier, especially if you have to make a panic transmission R&R at the track.
I keep tweaking my setup to simplify maintenance.
Keith

Yes it is a tube k member

What headers you run

In my case I have an AJE tubular k-member and QA1 tubular lower arms with coil over conversion. My headers are Hooker super comps, 2" prim, 3.5" collectors

That's the way mine is set up 
But I have to run 2.1/4 headers for tfsA heads

Ok what about fram rail

Mine is 1/4 alum with weld on tabs so you can put it were ever you want 
Got them from skinny kid