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67 f100 suspension

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67 f100 suspension Empty 67 f100 suspension

Post  jlucasd429 March 11th 2014, 5:00 pm

I am trying to decide what to do about the rear end in my 67 F100. I know I am going with the CV swap for the front. Ive heard so many different options for the rear but I would like some more info. Engine is stock 429 (for now) with c6 auto.
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67 f100 suspension Empty Re: 67 f100 suspension

Post  DILLIGASDAVE March 12th 2014, 1:26 am

Really depends on the truck's intended purpose when done. Is it going to be 100% street or 100% strip (or somewhere in between)? Is it keeping the stock ride height, or is it going to be lowered a little bit, or is it going to be slammed in the dirt? Is it going to have a rear tire size somewhere in the OEM range, or big ass slicks/pro street tires?


Leafspring setup......

A simple super lowbuck "street (ish)" setup that could be made to work with a couple of the above applications is just keeping the leafsprings (with or without modifications) and adding a good set of slapper bars. You could move the leafsprings in each side if you needed more room for bigger tires. You could flip the rear housing above the leafsprings (& "C" the frame rails if needed) if you wanted to lower the truck some. You could remove a leaf or two from the pack if you wanted to soften the "truck" ride, & then install leafspring air bag/helpers in case you ever needed to haul something.


"street rod" 4-bar setup.....

If it's going to be mostly a "street" deal (say 85%+) a step up from the leafspring would be a street rod/hot rod type 4-bar setup with rubber or urethane rod-ends. They usually have fairly short housing & chassis brackets (with fewer adjustment holes) so they can fit into tighter places. Some kits have the upper & lowers bars mounted parallel, and some have the top bars installed pointing inward or outward (kinda like the Fox body stuff).


drag 4-link for "street" use.......

You can sometimes use a 4-link meant for drag use in a street application if you go with the rubber or urethane rod-ends (for better ride quality on the street). But you can also use a metal rod-end if you don't mind a harsher ride & more road noise. But the drag 4-links taller housing & chassis brackets can sometimes make it a lot harder to install them in some street applications. Especially on lowered vehicles.  


"drag use only" ladder bar setup or 4-link with anti-roll setup.......

If it's going to be a drag only truck the decision (one vs the other) really boils down to a ladder bar setup if you want something that's easy to adjust, and you also feel you don't need a ton of adjustability. Or a 4-link if you feel you need a ton of adjustability, and you also don't mind having to do more work adjusting it if needed. And regardless if the stock truck frame is modified for a drag application, or it gets a round tube or box tube back-half frame, the structure needs to be beefy enough to handle the extra diagonal loading a ladder bar or 4-link's anti-roll can exert on the chassis when they stop body-roll from happening.
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