New 598 build, mud racing

Well it's finally ready for some test n tune this weekend. Starter/flex plate problem fixed. Ended up using a scat flex plate and stock 90s starter. And had to fix trans cooler line, twice!!!! Brand new piece of -6 braided line had 5 pin holes. Replaced that and it had 2 pin holes. Went and got another 8ft and all is good . Hopefully race ready in a couple weeks

Well today went extremely well. Pushed the truck outside, jacked up the rear and let the truck idle in gear fwd and rev for about ten minutes. Then we ran the valves, double checked timing. Let it cool for a for a while, then installed new plugs - AR 3932 autolites gapped at .028. Ended up doing 3 test hits. First the plugs were a shade rich and timing mark wasn't quite half way down the strap. Second pass new plugs timing at 32, same jetting 96 square. Plugs still a shade rich, timing mark on strap was 3/4 down . Third test hit same jetting, new plugs again the timing mark was almost down to the base of the strap. Timing was at 34 . Was looking a little leaner but not perfect. After our first race I will look at the plugs and probably drop the jetting to 94s and that should get us looking good fuel n timing. Have to give a shout out to pro systems, Patrick did a hell of a job on the carb. With a 4600 chip in the 2 step it instantly bounced off the chip as soon as I hit the throttle. And launched like a animal. Convertor seemed good as well, supposed to be around 5500 stall. Flashed to 5700 on launch after t brake was released. Thanks cory

Finally ready for our first race on the 26th. Had a little problem the other day, went to install front clip and noticed coolant at corner of intake. Had to pull the intake. All good now, ready to pull the pin on this expensive grenade and see what happens. Lol

Awesome good luck!

Thanks norm, just wish I could drive next weekend. Waiting on shoulder surgery. May try the dirt drags, only 150ft, shouldn't have to shift out of first. My son will drive in the bog. It can get pretty wild for only 200ft!!! I can pull the shifter backwards but not forward. It sucks . Hoping for high 2 sec passes in the drags and low to mid 3 sec passes in the bog.

Well the mud race went well. I ran the 150 ft drags - 3.009 on the first pass and 2.950 the second pass. Son didn't fair as well, 11 sec first pass and a 4.008 his second pass. First pass he was nervous and released the TB early and misshifted. His second pass was good but he got out of line and his helmet visor got covered in mud and couldn't see. Motor is making good power, little rich on the hit. But pulled like a freight train to 7200. Think once we get the carb dialed in and get the shock settings figured out we will be doing pretty good.

Went to a race last Sunday, had a little problem. Son made a pass, 2.74 in 150 ft, mud drags. He came idling back to the trailer and said got a problem. Was idling with 15psi oil pressure and if you rev it to 25/3000 it would only get 32 psi. Engine sounds good, no rod or main noises. I'm pretty sure the relief valve in the pump stuck. When we got home we dumped the oil and inspected the filter. Had fine bearing material and metal in the filter. Nothing big almost powder like. Going to pull the engine this weekend and take the pan off and inspect everything. Going to tear down completely and if their is no major damage. Going to throw new rod and mains in as well as new roller cam bearings. Damn this sucks, when my son pulled up to the line at the race I could see all the gauges, on the transbrake at 4600. It had 75 psi oil pressure. The engine sounded amazing when he made his pass.

Just My Opinion and Worth What You Payed For it.

Myself if I was going to tear into a Fresh Built Engine, I would Go Over All The Parts Under Good Light and a Magnifying Glass and Try to Pin Point The High Wear Areas.

Hopefully They are Still Holding the Racing Bearing Tolerances Tight, So You Don't Have to Play the Half Sell Swap Game, is One Reason I would Avoid Replacing Too Much Off The Bat.

Also I Don't Like Disturbing Seated Rings if I can Avoid It. Not That You Have to do That to Pop in Rod Bearings.

The Way Prices are Going I Would Hang onto The Old Bearing in the New Boxes Marked Used if They are in Good Shape Also. You Just Never No When a Pinch May Arise and well

Your Mileage May Vary.

Hopefully there isn't a lot of bearing or journal damage. First thing to get checked is the pump relief. If it stuck open then on to the rest of the engine. The bearing shuffle is no big deal, it's part of building engines. As far as the rings go, won't hurt a thing if I have to pop the pistons out, just put them back in the same hole.

Got the engine on the stand and got the pan off. Took the oil pump apart, the relief valve moves freely but isn't seating tight against the register. Haven't pulled any caps yet but did find that crank thrust has loosened up, had .005 now has about .020. Going to pop the caps next week and inspect everything. Nothing looks like it got hot. Engine rotates freely.

Little update, haven't posted in a while. Ended up having the block line honed, and had to turn the crank. # 2&4 main were chewed up from lack of oil. #1-3-5 looked fine, just a few debris scratches in the bearings. All I and the machine shop can figure is line bore was a hair out. When I checked clearances with my bore gauge, after shuffling bearing shells, all mains were between.0033-.0037 . All the rods looked fine except #3 rod, just showed a tiny amount of copper. All the rest looked good, just a few debris scratches. The rod clearances were all between .0025-.0028. just waiting for new roller cam bearings and then I can pick up the block and crank and reassemble everything.

Finally got the block and crank back after six months! The line bore wasn't true with the crank. #2-4 main were not inline with #1-3-5. But all we're in spec as far as bore diameter. Ended up shaving the caps and aligne honing the block. Crank ended up .010-.010. going to start reassemble this weekend.