Fel Pro Intake Gaskets

Bret Powell wrote:How does one "overtorque" the intake and smash the gaskets when they are being torqued to spec?

Bret

when someone doesnt use a torque wrench

Mr Gasket #208a (cj port) . Used them forever never leaked once and looked good on tear downs. Tried the Fel-Pros once, and got a water leak in the rear corner. Switched back to the Mr G's , leak was gone. I use the cork end seals and clean the surface, glue the bottoms to the block and let them dry 24 hours before dropping on the intake, never had an oil leak ever or had a gasket pop out of the ends.

bbf-falcon wrote:Yea me too. I can't really say anything bad about the Felpro printoseal. I don't use anything w/them except for silicone on the ends. Maybe i was just lucky

I never had issues with them either, of course they don't need to stay on the motor for 10 years........that could be an issue. They are meant as a race gasket........race stuff never stays together for very long.

I have SCE's on it now, after 2 seasons they are starting to look a bit squished.............may get to pop the intake off here soon I hope.


I do give the intake bolts a "snug" every other time I check the valve lash.

Bret Powell wrote:How does one "overtorque" the intake and smash the gaskets when they are being torqued to spec?

Bret

Simple. The torque spec is given for a Ford iron intake with a Ford OEM gasket.

Since we are not using the iron intake, nor the Ford OEM gasket, it would stand to reason that a different spec is required. Since the Fel=Pro gaskets are prone to crush under high torque loads, perhaps a lighter torque will keep them alive longer?

Greg

After torque is reached the 1st time how many times to you go around and retorque ? should you leave it alone after torque is reached the 1st time because you can go around again 3 or 4 times maybe more to reach torque and the middle bolts are still not to torque even tho they were when you were on them.

I use and stock the Fel-Pro -S3 gaskets for my FE stuff, which is a LOT tougher on gaskets. They pretty much cannot be trimmed for porting but work far better in street usage.

I had two sets in 8 months. 25 years I have not had a problem using them until now. Yes, my surfaces have been checked with a straight-edge and I use a torque wrench... 25lbs. There is something wrong with the compound. It seems to be reacting adversely to oil and heat, which is causing the gasket to stretch and compress. It does this until the gasket cracks at the bottom of the port or seeps between the head and the intake, before you decide something is wrong. Just take a look at the photo... It is not right. The gaskets are breaking down.

Furthermore, my Dodge 318 is starting to do the same thing with a set of new Fel-pro print-o-seals. What is even stranger on that engine, is that the anti-freeze is passing through the front edge of the intake gasket, like water passes through a sponge. I had to rub my eyes twice and no, I don't drink. Craziest thing I have ever seen.

I tore down an engine a couple of weeks ago that had those gaskets on the intake and they looked the same as the pictures posted above. I won't use the fel-pro again.

nuclearcobra wrote:After torque is reached the 1st time how many times to you go around and retorque ? should you leave it alone after torque is reached the 1st time because you can go around again 3 or 4 times maybe more to reach torque and the middle bolts are still not to torque even tho they were when you were on them.

I think you should go around as long it takes for all to reach their torque and stay there. The reason the middles seem "loose" is because they are after the outers pull the intake down and squish the gasket. 2-3 times around should do it.

My thoughts on the gasket tearing is that the gasket needs some type of slippery spray on it to allow the intake to slide down it as the bolts are torqued and as the intake expands and contracts from the heat cycles.

I just ordered a bunch of stuff from Lem and the intake gaskets he sent me are some type of composite material. I can't find a part number or brand on them, but they seem like they would work OK without tearing.