Update-Hy-Gard made the converter too tight?

This thing will not fall out of a tree....
Everything is the same except for the Hy-Gard and, I have have about 20 ft/lbs less torque due to a bigger cam. (This is as compared to my first 557.)
It seems that due to the less torque, coupled with the fluid, I have made the converter way too tight.
1.37 60'
6.02 @ 116???
Sounds like it is laboring....Should have been in the 5.70 range....
Everything is fresh.
Any thoughts?

i wouldnt think the hy-guard would make that much of a difference ...... from what ive read 200-400rpms tighter

Sounds like something else is going on.....

put atf in and see what you get.i have'nt ran it before but i dont think all your trouble is the fluid.did you dyno the engine to know your down on tq?

mph is down too. Whats the conv stall?

It's getting into Summer so the car might slow down which is normal. I doubt the fluid is doing it. Could have a slipping converter one-way which will hurt 60 ft times without changing MPH too much.

cool40 wrote:put atf in and see what you get.i have'nt ran it before but i dont think all your trouble is the fluid.did you dyno the engine to know your down on tq?

That is my first plan of action...to get the Hy-Gard out and see what happens...And yes, I did dyno the engine.
I sent the converter back and had it cut open, inspected and, freshened. I sent them a copy of the old dyno sheet (That the converter was originally built for) and a copy of the the new dyno sheet.
They didn't seem to think there was enough difference between the two to worry about changing stall speed.

richter69 wrote:mph is down too. Whats the conv stall?

Yes the mph is way down....should have been in the 120-122 range...biotch will only stall about 4500.
The hell of it is....the damn thing is deadly consistant....just sloooooow...lol.

again whats the stall? also whats the fall back on the shift? trap rpm?

The hygard should only make a 200 rpm diff at most, your 60' is real slow, but the mph also reflects some other issues. And yes the air is shitty right now.

ok you posted while i typed lol. Stall is way low IMO, these deals want a 5500-5800........mine goes 5500 and i consider it tight.............

What brand and size converter?

It falls back to about 4500 from a 6500 shift and hangs there.
At the initial hit, it will hang at 4500 and stay there until about 200' out, then it starts pulling like a mo-fo.
I run a 4.10 gear with a 33" tire (105-1/2" roll-out) and I wasn't going into high cog until about 400' out.

I agree...it is way too tight...should be in the 5500 range...it is a 9" Coan.
I've never had the first issue with any of their converters...they alway have hit it right on the money.
I'm gonna' swap fluid just to see but, I may have to yank it out and have them loosen it up.

way too tight......honestly I'm not sure what they are doing to get a 9" that snug.

Gonna take more than a fluid change to get you there.

Thats a lot of gear with a tall tire as well, honestly for the 1/8th it would like a little steeper gear.

richter69 wrote:way too tight......honestly I'm not sure what they are doing to get a 9" that snug.

Gonna take more than a fluid change to get you there.

Thats a lot of gear with a tall tire as well, honestly for the 1/8th it would like a little steeper gear.

I agree 100%...it just baffles the shyt out of me...
The combo is essentially the same as before...just a bigger cam....it usually is mid 1.20's to 60'...has been 1.21...5.66 @ 124.
I would swap the gear but, I like to keep it geared for the 1/4....planning on running some divisionals in Super Gas.
I know I could still go 1320' with a 4.56 or so but, I don't really see the need to spin it that hard for a small gain.

On the bright side, Coan is just a little over an hour from me...I could get it there and back and lose the two days of shipping...lol.
What is the best way to get all the fluid out so I can do an apples-to-apples comparison?
I don't really want to drill the converter....I thought about draining the pan and then pulling a line off and blowing air throught it but, I don't think it will help me get it out of the converter. May have to buy a couple of cases of cheap fluid and flush the piss out of it.

drain the pan, refill with atf, take the cooler line lose from the trans and put in a drain pan, start motor and dump atf in trans while it pumps it out.

Treeyasoon wrote:

richter69 wrote:way too tight......honestly I'm not sure what they are doing to get a 9" that snug.

Gonna take more than a fluid change to get you there.

Thats a lot of gear with a tall tire as well, honestly for the 1/8th it would like a little steeper gear.

I agree 100%...it just baffles the shyt out of me...
The combo is essentially the same as before...just a bigger cam....it usually is mid 1.20's to 60'...has been 1.21...5.66 @ 124.
I would swap the gear but, I like to keep it geared for the 1/4....planning on running some divisionals in Super Gas.
I know I could still go 1320' with a 4.56 or so but, I don't really see the need to spin it that hard for a small gain.

On the bright side, Coan is just a little over an hour from me...I could get it there and back and lose the two days of shipping...lol.
What is the best way to get all the fluid out so I can do an apples-to-apples comparison?
I don't really want to drill the converter....I thought about draining the pan and then pulling a line off and blowing air throught it but, I don't think it will help me get it out of the converter. May have to buy a couple of cases of cheap fluid and flush the piss out of it.

how much more dur at .050? what lobe sep?

Here is the current cam....I'd have to look for the old cam card...all I can remember is it was .740ish lift 110* lobe sep.

repost the dyno sheets...........what stroke crank?

4.440" bore x 4.5" stroke....

The dyno sheet shows that it was done in February. Have you verified that the timing is still at 34degrees with your electronics in your car? With different boxes, coils and etc it is always best to recheck the timing, as I have seen it change between boxes/coils. The other thing could be that the jetting (98) could be way too rich for the heat. Both things could really make it labor down low.

what cyl head and comp ratio?

pretty cool Tree ...looks like my dyno graph

85montess wrote:The dyno sheet shows that it was done in February. Have you verified that the timing is still at 34degrees with your electronics in your car? With different boxes, coils and etc it is always best to recheck the timing, as I have seen it change between boxes/coils. The other thing could be that the jetting (98) could be way too rich for the heat. Both things could really make it labor down low.

Yes, I did check the timing...It was at 35* in the car....plugs looked perfect so I think the jetting is close.

Lem, they are A429 heads...comp is 15-1.

Reg Hy-gurd changed mine 200 RPM tighter from Dex III in a C6, I think conv too tight for combo. BUTTT
you are bracket racing and if its deadly on the number what's the problem, that's how you win
Oh go ahead and change it I race agianst you what the hell am I doing!!!!!!!!!

converter too tight...cam too big...................

Well, we know the converter is too tight, as we have established that but, would you care to share why you think the cam is too big?
I have wondered about this myself...I still have the old cam...and it still remains an option to remedy the problem.

So, what was the 'old' cam?