My new 528 combo

bigblok2000ranger wrote:

cool40 wrote:whats wrong with ladder bars? i run them under my car and will as long as i can hook it up. on your truck thats what i'd use too.

Nothing wrong with them in my opinion just everytime I say something about using them a bunch of people ask why not a 4 link.

the same people who say you need a arb with ladder bars... some things work best with LB's and IMO with todays shocks you can do a lot more than most folks think.

Hope it works out well for you. Yes I would ask why not 4 link, but I already know the answer.

They are already paid for so they are going on! lol

I talked with Chassis Engineering for quite awhile about my suspension and this should work if the tires will hold it.

Jason the video is still attaching it takes forever from PC for some reason.

Just to make a statement off the anti-roll bar statement above..

I've done a few ladder bar setups in my shop and I will say I always use an anti-roll bar. Think about it this way, why do most ladder bar cars not need one? What controls the body roll? Answer...the housing is the anti-roll bar. Would you rather have an anti-roll bar doing this job or add more stress to an already stressed housing?

put a badass housing in it along with lb's not made from pixi sticks and the "need" for an arb gets less critical........they can be beneficial in a high powered lb car, but Eric you aint there yet..........

richter69 wrote:put a badass housing in it along with lb's not made from pixi sticks and the "need" for an arb gets less critical........they can be beneficial in a high powered lb car, but Eric you aint there yet..........

That would work.

whatbumper wrote:Just to make a statement off the anti-roll bar statement above..

I've done a few ladder bar setups in my shop and I will say I always use an anti-roll bar. Think about it this way, why do most ladder bar cars not need one? What controls the body roll? Answer...the housing is the anti-roll bar. Would you rather have an anti-roll bar doing this job or add more stress to an already stressed housing?

i'd add more stress to the stressed housing

I just had an hour long conversation with Jason and another earlier and basically came to the conclusion that with multiple changes being made I am gonna look at these upgrades as starting with a clean sheet of paper. My tires are old and definitely need to be replaced but also thinking about going to a larger tire so I want to try and get some info on if these tires will work size wise or if I need the larger tires.

I have not shared any times yet because we haven't really learned much except I have/had a ten second truck with an eight second motor.

This is honestly a huge step-up from where I was and I have to learn things completely over, what worked to go tens is not gonna cut it to go 8's.

My next testing session I am gonna start over with a footbrake 1/8 mile hit, then try a transbrake 1/8 mile hit...

I am throwing out basically all info previously gathered except the motor has a good safe tune and the transbrake works and what the converter flashes to on the brake.

cool40 wrote:

whatbumper wrote:Just to make a statement off the anti-roll bar statement above..

I've done a few ladder bar setups in my shop and I will say I always use an anti-roll bar. Think about it this way, why do most ladder bar cars not need one? What controls the body roll? Answer...the housing is the anti-roll bar. Would you rather have an anti-roll bar doing this job or add more stress to an already stressed housing?

i'd add more stress to the stressed housing

It's pretty cool to see how twisted a 9 inch can get. Keeps guys like us in business when cars don't go straight.

Front end is lowered, I am letting it sit overnight before I disturb the springs so I know they will stay. The tires look so much better in the wheelwells now!

id put a good set of dble adj shocks on the rear to control some of the hit and take the basketball effect out of the tires.......... and a set of tires that were not brought over on the Mayflower...........

richter69 wrote:id put a good set of dble adj shocks on the rear to control some of the hit and take the basketball effect out of the tires.......... and a set of tires that were not brought over on the Mayflower...........

I do have adjustable shocks but only single adjustables, I will upgrading eventually and the tires are not quite that old ! They will be upgraded soon as well.

I heard they had a beard on um.................... dbl adj is what you need.

take of in 2nd gear......

richter69 wrote:I heard they had a beard on um.................... dbl adj is what you need.

take of in 2nd gear......

LOL, it will get double adjustables soon.

bigblok2000ranger wrote:

richter69 wrote:I heard they had a beard on um.................... dbl adj is what you need.

take of in 2nd gear......

LOL, it will get double adjustables soon.

Buy my mustang......it comes with DA'a. Lol

thats what he needs

I am gonna stick with the truck.

Got it down the track pretty cleanly finally, it spun a bit but sure that it's the tires. I want to thank Blake for the baseline on the ladder bars he was dead on.

bigblok2000ranger wrote:Got it down the track pretty cleanly finally, it spun a bit but sure that it's the tires. I want to thank Blake for the baseline on the ladder bars he was dead on.

60????

1.668 spinning a bit, it pulled the front tires about 3 inchs off the ground for about 4-5' then set down nicely. The bars are in the center holes on the front bracket as to not hit the tires really hard, gonna get new tires before I try any lower holes hoping it will work without having to pound the crap out of the tires.

what mph does it pull

It pulled 135 in the quarter with the plugs loading up for first half of track, gonna blow out the air bleeds think mights picked up some trash.

how much power did this engine dyno at?

Didn't get dynoed was trying to get to the race in TN.